Clean cable chord managment or nah?

[Tamberav]

Mine is a huge rats nest of wires that you can’t see cuz the sump has doors.

I do wish it was not a tangled mess.

 

[slim425]

i've run out of room for new equipment on my control board, but all the wires are hidden behind it.

 

[Sleepingtiger]

I def. care lol's. This is my temporary set up until tank arrives and is set up. I can quickly add all my equipment and not overly fuss with cords. After we have the tank, we'll decide what to do. I'll be adding a divider to close off the dry end of cabinet from the wet side. Some items can go there. Not sure all can lol's. Might have to have some outside on the wall. the other images are my current tank where hubby used cable channels. Trouble I had (and learned from) was to take powerheads from tank to clean or replace meant taking that nice neat system apart. This time, at least, I'm using mp40's which I can clean head without taking apart. The reefwave 45's just need unplugged from the controller so better equipment this time. Skimmer cord needs to be accessible. So will design the new system taking in mind what needs to come out for maintenance.

The other thing to consider is if you have an outlet behind your tank and the risk of saltwater splashing on wall and dripping into the outlet. If the outlet is damaged, it means moving the tank to repair (if not fire!). I have 1 outlet we are disconnecting and sealing to be safe.

That looks absolutely clean. I am way to OCD, I hate exposed wiring. It should all be hidden

 

[James_O]

i've run out of room for new equipment on my control board, but all the wires are hidden behind it.

That looks very clean!

 

[Sleepingtiger]

 

[Sleepingtiger]

I am still waiting for my Apex unit to arrive. Once it does, I will finish the wiring.

 

[Susan Edwards]

I tried labels but they didn’t stick well. Does anyone have labels that they are happy with? If so please share the name of the manufacturer.

for my new set up to avoid not knowing what cord goes to what plug
I use this with my computer set up and on old tank

 

[BZOFIQ]

Powerhead controller that hangs on the back of the tank. Only 1 cable is needed to connect to mains, this provides outlets for 4 AC powerheads (2 each side of the tank), which are easy to disconnect for cleaning..

I admire your DIY aspect but this is a fire waiting to happen. I'd recommend that you have the input on the side and outlets underneath or all under if possible. The way you have it currently - all the salt spray and dripping will go straight into the sockets.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

5 words for easy to use cable management.

Panduit Patchlink Horizontal Cable Managers. Allows you to dress out all of the cabling and drop leads wherever you want, allows for easy access to anything you need to remove and looks good lol. Also, all plastic, so no need to worry about salt creep or anything like that.

 

[BZOFIQ]

https://amzn.to/3nPCJDz

I use these everywhere, cut to size with a saw.

No need for cluster-#### of a cable mess behind the panel - all neatly organized within the wire management channels

 

[ColoredRock]

I was listening to a older ReefBuilders pod cast and they were talking about a new tank build out using cutom color and length power cords (something like this):

 

[BZOFIQ]

I was listening to a older ReefBuilders pod cast and they were talking about a new tank build out using cutom color and length power cords (something like this):

Keep in mind these are ONLY 18 Gauge, I wouldn't trust more than 5 Amps through it. May be sufficient for most except some lights and heaters. Besides, you don't want to run these at capacity. I tend to stick to 12-14 gauge only when buying extension cords....or re-use cords from computer equipment.

The color aspect seems cool for easy identification. I rely on wire markers/labels myself.

 

[MPS]

On a related note, does anyone have recommendations for good cable management products? I've pretty much just done zip ties at this point.

I’ve replaced zip ties with Velcro strips in most places. At some point, something will need to be removed or replaced so the zip get cut anyway.

 

[Borat]

I admire your DIY aspect but this is a fire waiting to happen. I'd recommend that you have the input on the side and outlets underneath or all under if possible. The way you have it currently - all the salt spray and dripping will go straight into the sockets.

I appreciate the feedback - it's not practical to have power outlets on the side, this is the only reason they are upwards facing (i.e. by design). I have had a 2 socket controller for a long time - there was no water spay getting into it.

Power outlets are not the main fire hazard (if at all), the worst case scenario is that the water would splash and short-circuit the mains - then the main RCD unit will cut it off (I did run a test checking this scenario).

In a typical aquarium the main fire hazard is from overheating DC power units (some of them can reach 70C-90C if not properly positioned), these are typically also buried amongst other cables/equipment, so a fire starting there would spread quickly. So if anything having these moved away from main electrics cabinet reduces the risk of fire.

These 2 units are hanging between a brick wall and aquarium glass, they don't generate any heat (only consume about 20w) and they are away from anyone touching/reaching them, in case the mains become exposed.

When designing all of my DIY devices I pay special attention to electric shock hazard: ensuring the cable has sufficient tension relief (cannot break due to bends) and is firmly secured - i.e. cannot disconnect by accident and even if disconnected, ensure it would stay inside the box..

 

[BZOFIQ]

I appreciate the feedback - it's not practical to have power outlets on the side, this is the only reason they are upwards facing (i.e. by design). I have had a 2 socket controller for a long time - there is no water spay getting into it.

Power outlets are not the main fire hazard (if at all), the worst case scenario is that the water would splash and short-circuit the mains - then the main RCD unit will cut it off (I did run a test checking this scenario).

In a typical aquarium the main fire hazard is from overheating DC power units (some of them can reach 70C-90C if not properly positioned), these are typically also buried amongst other cables/equipment, so a fire starting there would spread quickly.

These 2 units are hanging between a brick wall and aquarium glass, they don't generate any heat (only consume about 20w) and they are away from anyone touching/reaching them, in case the mains become exposed.

When designing all of my DIY devices I pay special attention to electric shock hazard: ensuring the cable has sufficient tension relief (cannot break due to bends) and is firmly secured - i.e. cannot disconnect by accident and even if disconnected, ensure it would stay inside the box..

We are worried (and are reminded) about drip loops on outlets facing to the side and you're not worried about outlets facing up receiving any water? I have nothing else to add.

 

[topazann]

Tape. Wrapped my cords together into a bunch

 

[Borat]

We are worried (and are reminded) about drip loops on outlets facing to the side and you're not worried about outlets facing up receiving any water? I have nothing else to add.

When dealing with mains electricity everyone DIY at his/her own risk. I know the risk I am taking - I know the outcome (RCD unit trips and cut off electricity)..

 

[ColoredRock]

Keep in mind these are ONLY 18 Gauge, I wouldn't trust more than 5 Amps through it. May be sufficient for most except some lights and heaters. Besides, you don't want to run these at capacity. I tend to stick to 12-14 gauge only when buying extension cords....or re-use cords from computer equipment.

The color aspect seems cool for easy identification. I rely on wire markers/labels myself.

Very good to know!.. thanks

 

[Sleepingtiger]

Keep in mind these are ONLY 18 Gauge, I wouldn't trust more than 5 Amps through it. May be sufficient for most except some lights and heaters. Besides, you don't want to run these at capacity. I tend to stick to 12-14 gauge only when buying extension cords....or re-use cords from computer equipment.

The color aspect seems cool for easy identification. I rely on wire markers/labels myself.

Also, keep the run short. I wouldn't do more than 2'.

 

[ColoredRock]

... I tend to stick to 12-14 gauge only when buying extension cords....or re-use cords from computer equipment.

The color aspect seems cool for easy identification. I rely on wire markers/labels myself.

Something like this...