Cloudy water help

[CLYRIC]

I've been running the aquarium since early january and the water is now cloudy.

My parameters are :
Nitrate : 17.4
Calcium 497
Alkalinity :7.5
Phosphate : 0

I've also been running into a lot of problems with what I'm guessing is dinos. All I've done in the past week is switched to a brand new hob skimmer, added a new fish/inverts/corals, and added some beneficial bacteria (turbostart 900).

 

[Reeflix]

sounds like to me a bacterial thing. assuming it is that then get a UV sterilizer. before you run off and get one though, lets see what some other people think on what this is

 

[Fishy888]

Have you been carbon dosing? How long have you had the dinos? Has anything died recently? Your phosphates at 0 caused the dino outbreak most likely. Until you get some phosphate in your system your bottled bacteria won’t help. Try to get phosphates to 0.1 ppm then add the bacteria. Also how large is your system?

As for the dinos I assume you did a dry start. I did the same. It wasn’t until I got chaeto and TRUE live rock from a friend’s system that my 8 month battle with dinos ended. If you have a decent LFS get 10 to preferably 20 lbs of live rock. A UV sterilizer might be of use if you have the kind of dinos that go into the water column at night then back onto the rocks and sand during the day. If you can get a picture of them under the microscope it will help identify them. It’s possible to have more than one type.

 

[CLYRIC]

Have you been carbon dosing? How long have you had the dinos? Has anything died recently? Your phosphates at 0 caused the dino outbreak most likely. Until you get some phosphate in your system your bottled bacteria won’t help. Try to get phosphates to 0.1 ppm then add the bacteria. Also how large is your system?

As for the dinos I assume you did a dry start. I did the same. It wasn’t until I got chaeto and TRUE live rock from a friend’s system that my 8 month battle with dinos ended. If you have a decent LFS get 10 to preferably 20 lbs of live rock. A UV sterilizer might be of use if you have the kind of dinos that go into the water column at night then back onto the rocks and sand during the day. If you can get a picture of them under the microscope it will help identify them. It’s possible to have more than one type.

I haven't used carbon and the dinos started popping up at feb 14ish, so around 15 days. Nothing has died recently. How do I raise my phosphates? My system is 55 gallon, no sump.

I'm not sure what a dry start is, but I didn't use any live rock, just dosed bacteria for it at the beginning of january. I don't have a sump for macroalgae like chaeto, is it possible to just have it on display tank? My LFS has live rock, but it's in very huge chunks that wouldn't fit my aquarium sadly. I don't have a sump for a uv sterilizer, Is it possible to use in display tank? If so, what brand do you recommend? I don't have a microscope, but I am a medical student, so I'll see if my professor will allow me to use the microscope to see them.

 

[Dan_P]

I've been running the aquarium since early january and the water is now cloudy.

My parameters are :
Nitrate : 17.4
Calcium 497
Alkalinity :7.5
Phosphate : 0

I've also been running into a lot of problems with what I'm guessing is dinos. All I've done in the past week is switched to a brand new hob skimmer, added a new fish/inverts/corals, and added some beneficial bacteria (turbostart 900).

What livestock have you added to the aquarium and what are you adding on a regular basis?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I will not be offering any suggestions until you can post pics under white lighting as it is virtually impossible to assess your situation which can be bacterial-algae- bio film. Any answers given are pure guesses directing you to take an action which may not be needed
Also you stated, guessing dinos which too need to be verified via pics

 

[CLYRIC]

What livestock have you added to the aquarium and what are you adding on a regular basis?

I added a chalk bass recently, but there's a firefish and a cardinal already there. and I only dose AB+ daily for the corals and just feed brine shrimp once for the fish.

 

[CLYRIC]

I will not be offering any suggestions until you can post pics under white lighting as it is virtually impossible to assess your situation which can be bacterial-algae- bio film. Any answers given are pure guesses directing you to take an action which may not be needed
Also you stated, guessing dinos which too need to be verified via pics

here are the pics of cloudy water from the side (can't really see the "cloudyness from the front).

and here are the "dinos"

 

[Fishy888]

here are the pics of cloudy water from the side (can't really see the "cloudyness from the front).

and here are the "dinos"

Color me crazy but I think you have lyngbya. I would wait to see what @vetteguy53081 thinks it is though. He is better than I am at algae IDs. I suppose you might have dinos somewhere in there but from these pictures I highly doubt it.

 

[vetteguy53081]

here are the pics of cloudy water from the side (can't really see the "cloudyness from the front).

and here are the "dinos"

Pics speak a thousand words. Thank you and this is easier to picture now and is both surface/film algae and algae bloom. The bedding itself appears to have started as diatoms associated with newer tank and was then dominated with algae. Some questions below in Bold. . . . .
The film algae itself is likely caused by Bright white intensity and a few suspects listed below. This will take a few days to defeat but some items to address are :
Filtration : I can assume you have a Non-reef ready tank and are using basic filtration with use of power filter? The issue with using power filter is that it is your primary source of filtration which is mechanical and you want to have mechanical , biological and chemical to mange proper water quality. The power filter will polish water and trap particles via the cartridge.
Chemical is what traps and breaks down chemical compounds such as feces and uneaten food often accomplished carbon and GFO
Biological is what utilizes the natural process of biological filtration such as use of ceramic nuggets, bio blocks, and microscopic bacteria surfaces.
You are lacking some forms of necessary filtration. A hang on back refugium, even a hang on skimmer such as Ice cap K1or K2 series will work flawlessly and help with overall waste removal.

Lighting: This looks like it may be a basic strip light but what light are you actually using ? Is it one in which you are able to adjust intensities?

Water: Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet ?

Additional light: Is this tank by chance at or near a window?

Phosphate: How are you testing phosphate? Normally with this level of algae, you will have a level of phosphate that is elevated- Not zero

 

[CLYRIC]

Pics speak a thousand words. Thank you and this is easier to picture now and is both surface/film algae and algae bloom. The bedding itself appears to have started as diatoms associated with newer tank and was then dominated with algae. Some questions below in Bold. . . . .
The film algae itself is likely caused by Bright white intensity and a few suspects listed below. This will take a few days to defeat but some items to address are :
Filtration : I can assume you have a Non-reef ready tank and are using basic filtration with use of power filter? The issue with using power filter is that it is your primary source of filtration which is mechanical and you want to have mechanical , biological and chemical to mange proper water quality. The power filter will polish water and trap particles via the cartridge.
Chemical is what traps and breaks down chemical compounds such as feces and uneaten food often accomplished carbon and GFO
Biological is what utilizes the natural process of biological filtration such as use of ceramic nuggets, bio blocks, and microscopic bacteria surfaces.
You are lacking some forms of necessary filtration. A hang on back refugium, even a hang on skimmer such as Ice cap K1or K2 series will work flawlessly and help with overall waste removal.

Lighting: This looks like it may be a basic strip light but what light are you actually using ? Is it one in which you are able to adjust intensities?

Water: Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet ?

Additional light: Is this tank by chance at or near a window?

Phosphate: How are you testing phosphate? Normally with this level of algae, you will have a level of phosphate that is elevated- Not zero

Filtration : i have a HOB aquaclear filter 70 and I just upgraded from a sea clone protein skimmer to a reef octopus 1000 protein skimmer. My aquaclear HOB has sponge, filter floss, and bio media. Do I need to add any more such as the hang on back refugium that you mentioned?

The light is nicrew 100w (2 of them) and yes, the lighting can be adjusted.

I use RODI water (I check everytime before water change to make sure that it's always 0 tds)

The tank is facing the slide door to the backyard, but the curtain is pretty much always covering it, but some light do still get through.

I test phosphate with Hanna ULR, I also just got a new reagant so it's not expired. I'll test again tonight to make sure.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Filtration : i have a HOB aquaclear filter 70 and I just upgraded from a sea clone protein skimmer to a reef octopus 1000 protein skimmer. My aquaclear HOB has sponge, filter floss, and bio media. Do I need to add any more such as the hang on back refugium that you mentioned?

The light is nicrew 100w (2 of them) and yes, the lighting can be adjusted.

I use RODI water (I check everytime before water change to make sure that it's always 0 tds)

The tank is facing the slide door to the backyard, but the curtain is pretty much always covering it, but some light do still get through.

I test phosphate with Hanna ULR, I also just got a new reagant so it's not expired. I'll test again tonight to make sure.

Wipe the glass clean with an algae sponge or magnetic glass cleaner.
Im very familiar with A/C 70 unit and there should be room in the back for a small pouch of chemipure blue. This pouch will help polish your water and should last 3-4 months.
I asked about window as its my prime suspect - UV is powerful and will penetrate curtains/blinds/shades and you can grab a piece of black construction paper from Walmart and place on side of tank facing the patio door and reduce the white intensity or even number of hours of white light - With these two steps you will see a drastic reduction.
Add the following to help with control.. . .
snails:
Astrea
turbo grazer
cerith
trochus
nassarius

Pencil urchin

6-8 Caribbean blue leg hermits (these guys are tiny)

 

[CLYRIC]

Wipe the glass clean with an algae sponge or magnetic glass cleaner.
Im very familiar with A/C 70 unit and there should be room in the back for a small pouch of chemipure blue. This pouch will help polish your water and should last 3-4 months.
I asked about window as its my prime suspect - UV is powerful and will penetrate curtains/blinds/shades and you can grab a piece of black construction paper from Walmart and place on side of tank facing the patio door and reduce the white intensity or even number of hours of white light - With these two steps you will see a drastic reduction.
Add the following to help with control.. . .
snails:
Astrea
turbo grazer
cerith
trochus
nassarius

Pencil urchin

6-8 Caribbean blue leg hermits (these guys are tiny)

The side of the tank that faces the patio door, is the front of the tank. How long would I need to cover the tank up for?
I have 2 trochus, 3 astrea, and 2 nassarius, but I haven't seen any improvement.

Should I reduce the amount of white light from my nicrew light? What is the usual schedule for lighting is because I just kind of winged it

 

[C4ctus99]

It would not be difficult to take your aquaclear and convert it to a HOB refugium with some chaeto or other macro algae. I have one with some ulva in it, not certain how much good it’s doing for the tank cause I got film algae on the glass growing at a slow rate, but the ulva isn’t dead yet. You can get a smaller tank at petco right now for half off and set up a sump with it. I think 20g longs are like $30 and you can get a 10g for like $13. I’m currently in the process of figuring out how to set mine up well and partition it off cause acrylic and glass don’t bond to silicone the same way

 

[vetteguy53081]

The side of the tank that faces the patio door, is the front of the tank. How long would I need to cover the tank up for?
I have 2 trochus, 3 astrea, and 2 nassarius, but I haven't seen any improvement.

Should I reduce the amount of white light from my nicrew light? What is the usual schedule for lighting is because I just kind of winged it

You can place the black paper on the front for duration the window light hits it and then remove rest of the day to enjoy your tank
Try this for your lights:

blue 75

red 4

green 3

Violet 80

UV 80

White 14

 

[CLYRIC]

You can place the black paper on the front for duration the window light hits it and then remove rest of the day to enjoy your tank
Try this for your lights:

blue 75

red 4

green 3

Violet 80

UV 80

White 14

For nicrew you can only change the blue/white with a difference of 5%, so I cant really do that

Also, so is what I have dinos, diatoms, or something else? I could get a microscope picture on monday and check phosphate tonight to make sure if it's 0 or ntot

 

[CLYRIC]

It would not be difficult to take your aquaclear and convert it to a HOB refugium with some chaeto or other macro algae. I have one with some ulva in it, not certain how much good it’s doing for the tank cause I got film algae on the glass growing at a slow rate, but the ulva isn’t dead yet. You can get a smaller tank at petco right now for half off and set up a sump with it. I think 20g longs are like $30 and you can get a 10g for like $13. I’m currently in the process of figuring out how to set mine up well and partition it off cause acrylic and glass don’t bond to silicone the same way

Yea I was thinking about getting that petco deal too, but im not really sure about how to make an overflow on a tank that doesnt have an overflow, or how to set up the sump myself.

Is there a tutorial somewhere on how to make a sump for an average tank that doesnt have any overflow?

 

[Dom]

I've been running the aquarium since early january and the water is now cloudy.

My parameters are :
Nitrate : 17.4
Calcium 497
Alkalinity :7.5
Phosphate : 0

I've also been running into a lot of problems with what I'm guessing is dinos. All I've done in the past week is switched to a brand new hob skimmer, added a new fish/inverts/corals, and added some beneficial bacteria (turbostart 900).

Well... your calcium is very high (I sit at 420) and your alkalinity is on the low side (I sit at 8.5). But these aren't what is causing cloudiness to your water.

A full tank shot so we can see the cloudiness would help.

If it is a milky white cloud, it is likely a bacterial bloom. If it has a green tint, its more likely an algae bloom.

 

[vetteguy53081]

For nicrew you can only change the blue/white with a difference of 5%, so I cant really do that

Also, so is what I have dinos, diatoms, or something else? I could get a microscope picture on monday and check phosphate tonight to make sure if it's 0 or ntot

Your Calcium is fine but do not add any for at least 2 weeks. I keep mine at 477-480
If its only blue and white
White 18-20 and Blue at 85

I see as diatoms covered with film algae. Cleaner crew mentioned with light reduction will help

 

[C4ctus99]

Yea I was thinking about getting that petco deal too, but im not really sure about how to make an overflow on a tank that doesnt have an overflow, or how to set up the sump myself.

Is there a tutorial somewhere on how to make a sump for an average tank that doesnt have any overflow?

There are some videos and articles on BRS that I found very helpful.

As to not having a proper drain and not wanting to drill through my tank… I decided to build an overflow and stick a pump in it. It took a couple hours in a fun bucket/sump experiment to get the flow right and make certain I could do it, ended up with the overflow pump at 1/2 power and a ball valve on the return pump to limit the return pump flow and match it. I’m going to do a more detailed write up in the next couple of weeks once I get it installed and changed out. I will be out of town this weekend otherwise would do it then

minimouse is overflow, aquatop is return

For the overflow I used some 2” PVC and figured out the minimouse would fit inside. Super glued a base plate, checked for good seal and a 4” PVC end cap with a hole drilled in it and a foam square for pre filter