Clown not looking good please help

wildrichwaters

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Help i have a clown fish that’s looking a bit out of shape, its seems that’s she’s has some type of red spots on head and white spots on back, other fish seem fine although new blue tang was recently QT for ich.

68B03521-7A2F-4870-9105-E276351B7B2E.jpeg C3706772-9554-4956-94F0-E4B5E9F2A634.jpeg 630621E5-7271-40F0-AC1E-52E488DFC05B.jpeg 84A81605-F939-4686-97AE-3E32DC850DA2.jpeg AFE9B75E-5019-44CB-BD05-4EF0FDF25849.jpeg 5D6847A0-F2D8-484C-B18A-E308C5D54D79.jpeg 493119A6-6E03-42CF-B123-49C701768F25.jpeg 4B39AD8E-9208-4126-9C2A-3FC0BC210552.jpeg
 
Were all of the fish quarantined? How recent was the latest addition?
Is the fish acting off at all?
All fish weren’t QT in the beginning, I started with two clown, fish, dwarf, angel puffer, Anthias only fish that got QT were new tang and fat head sunburst but sunburst died from a different infection
 
Help i have a clown fish that’s looking a bit out of shape, its seems that’s she’s has some type of red spots on head and white spots on back, other fish seem fine although new blue tang was recently QT for ich.

68B03521-7A2F-4870-9105-E276351B7B2E.jpeg C3706772-9554-4956-94F0-E4B5E9F2A634.jpeg 630621E5-7271-40F0-AC1E-52E488DFC05B.jpeg 84A81605-F939-4686-97AE-3E32DC850DA2.jpeg AFE9B75E-5019-44CB-BD05-4EF0FDF25849.jpeg 5D6847A0-F2D8-484C-B18A-E308C5D54D79.jpeg 493119A6-6E03-42CF-B123-49C701768F25.jpeg 4B39AD8E-9208-4126-9C2A-3FC0BC210552.jpeg
This picture in particular shows Brook.
1673499648505.png

If I see correctly- the other fish has secondary infections which stem from long term brook.
The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials
 
I can't see the red dot you mention, but I can see what looks like a possible brooklynella infection, maybe advanced cryptocaryon. This, and all of your fish, will need treatment and the tank will need to be fallow for a lengthy time.
 
As for the red dot, there is an issue that has been seen on clowns recently with those holes on the head area - we don’t know what it is yet, but so far it does not appear to be harmful, but may be a result of other issues, such as brook.
 
This picture in particular shows Brook.
1673499648505.png

If I see correctly- the other fish has secondary infections which stem from long term brook.
The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials
Thank you your help is greatly appreciate it. I’ve already separated fish from display take to quarantine tank and I currently have nine fish. How many fish can I quarantine together at one time I was thinking of going out and buying a 40 gallon today to put most of them in And the other half can go in my 10 gallon or will these two quarantine tanks work for fallow period?
 

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