Clown with Fungus

C-Reefer · Mar 3, 2018

I woke up this morning and one of my clowns was laying on its side against the glass, panting heavily. I tryed feeding a bit and he eagerly ate, and I turned on whites while feeding and saw that he had 3 white fuzzy looking patches. He was acting fine yesterday. The problem is, I don't have a QT set up, and I'm leaving for the rest of today after 12 and coming back Sunday in the evening. I don't why he's suddenly gone downhill. All the corals are fine and happy, my goby and other clown are fine as well. What should I do? I won't be able to go to a fish store today since they don't open till 11, but I could order meds and have them here by Monday. I do run a modded AC50 half-full of seachem matrix and chaeto. Should I take it, get a 5 gallons or so tub and fill it up, and put the AC50 on it until I leave? The chaeto would keep ammonia 0. Or am I best not stressing it out and leaving it in DT? I really don't know what to do.

glb · Mar 3, 2018

I would take it out of the tank and use the chaeto like you said. It doesn’t sound to good for the little guy. I’m not an expert on fish disease but what he has might be contagious and could spread while you’re gone. Hopefully someone can identify it for you. Good luck!

Humblefish · Mar 3, 2018

Sounds like it could be brook: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/brooklynella.247938/

Post pics if you can.

C-Reefer · Mar 12, 2018

The one the thread was about died.... nothing I could do. I had to leave for the day and when I came back he was dead. But now my other clownfish has something worse. Why in the world are they getting sick? What should I do? I can quickly set up a QT if needed.

HotRocks · Mar 12, 2018

Looks like brook, possibly ich too. Lets see if we can get some more eyes. I would go ahead and prepare your QT, regardless fish is going to need to be medicated.

@4FordFamily @Humblefish @Big G

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-disease-index.247600/
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/freshwater-dip.248898/
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/formalin.290925/

ngoodermuth · Mar 12, 2018

Brooklynella, definitely. All fish should be treated in QT, and the tank run fallow for 6-weeks minimum.

The link posted by @Humblefish above has all you need

4FordFamily · Mar 12, 2018

HotRocks said:
Looks like brook, possibly ich too. Lets see if we can get some more eyes. I would go ahead and prepare your QT, regardless fish is going to need to be medicated.

@4FordFamily @Humblefish @Big G

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-disease-index.247600/
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/freshwater-dip.248898/
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/formalin.290925/

ngoodermuth said:
Brooklynella, definitely. All fish should be treated in QT, and the tank run fallow for 6-weeks minimum.

The link posted by @Humblefish above has all you need

Agree entirely. You’ll need to treat ASAP. The clown in the picture has not eaten in a while and thus the prognosis is grim

C-Reefer · Mar 12, 2018

Its too late. He's gone already

. Water in the QT was heating and up mixing salt. I didn't even get the chance to try and treat him. I'm so mad at myself for missing the early signs, and sad. This is the second clownfish I've lost in two weeks. He ate just fine Saturday, ate a lot actually. He's had a normal appetite ever since I got him. The only other fish in the tank is a YWG and pistol shrimp. It will be an absolutely pain in the butt trying to get those two out, my rockwork is epoxyed together and he's under one of the biggest formations.

ngoodermuth · Mar 12, 2018

You might have trouble adding another clown if you don’t

They are most prone to brook. Although other new fish could get it as well. Since you only have one fish now, I would absolutely bite the bullet and get yourself a blank slate before adding more fish back in. JMO

C-Reefer · Mar 12, 2018

ngoodermuth said:
You might have trouble adding another clown if you don’t They are most prone to brook. Although other new fish could get it as well. Since you only have one fish now, I would absolutely bite the bullet and get yourself a blank slate before adding more fish back in. JMO

If I just pull the YWG, will the shrimp be fine on its own? It won't transfer disease since its a invert right? Only QT I have is a 5 gal bucket... not sure if I want to keep a YWG in a 5 gal bucket for 6 months.... I may be able to pick up a 5 gal tank but thats iffy. Filtration in the 5 gal bucket would just be an airstone... my HOB won't fit on the bucket.

ngoodermuth · Mar 12, 2018

The shrimp and clean-up crew are fine to stay, just need to go fishless.

A 10g QT would be plenty for a ywg. The bucket would be alright for a bit, but I prefer the visibility of a tank if you are going to be treating and observing for illness.

You need 6 weeks fallow for brook and velvet, 76 days if you want to account for ich as well. And, then QT any new fish you buy moving forward.

That’s your best bet on avoiding parasites in your display.

HotRocks · Mar 12, 2018

ngoodermuth said:
The shrimp and clean-up crew are fine to stay, just need to go fishless.

A 10g QT would be plenty for a ywg. The bucket would be alright for a bit, but I prefer the visibility of a tank if you are going to be treating and observing for illness.

You need 6 weeks fallow for brook and velvet, 76 days if you want to account for ich as well. And, then QT any new fish you buy moving forward.

That’s your best bet on avoiding parasites in your display.

+1 agreed!

C-Reefer · Mar 12, 2018

Will I need to treat proactively in QT or will it die on its own? Salinity should it be at DT salinity? I'll look around and try to find something around 10 gallons that I can put my extra HOB on.

HotRocks · Mar 12, 2018

C-Reefer said:
Will I need to treat proactively in QT or will it die on its own? Salinity should it be at DT salinity? I'll look around and try to find something around 10 gallons that I can put my extra HOB on.

IMO, treatment is necessary as even if the remaining fish isn't showing symptoms, its been exposed to it. If untreated it will host the fish until back in DT, and would re-infect your new fish. Yes I would maintain the same salinity on QT and DT, the less stress on the fish when moving between tanks the better. I still always use acclimation procedure just to be safe when transferring fish between QTs and DT.

Robink · Mar 12, 2018

C-Reefer said:
Will I need to treat proactively in QT or will it die on its own? Salinity should it be at DT salinity? I'll look around and try to find something around 10 gallons that I can put my extra HOB on.

You can get a 10 gallon tank at petco or petsmart, (I forget which one). They are usually having a 1$ per gallon sale.

ngoodermuth · Mar 12, 2018

Even when they aren’t on sale, 10g aren’t usually more than $15-20 around here. You could try craigslist also.

And yes, I would treat the goby. A rally bath in a 5g bucket, followed by copper w/metroplex in QT would be my personal choice of action for brook and possible ich.

Humblefish · Mar 12, 2018

^^ All great advice above

4FordFamily · Mar 12, 2018

C-Reefer said:
Its too late. He's gone already . Water in the QT was heating and up mixing salt. I didn't even get the chance to try and treat him. I'm so mad at myself for missing the early signs, and sad. This is the second clownfish I've lost in two weeks. He ate just fine Saturday, ate a lot actually. He's had a normal appetite ever since I got him. The only other fish in the tank is a YWG and pistol shrimp. It will be an absolutely pain in the butt trying to get those two out, my rockwork is epoxyed together and he's under one of the biggest formations.

If that clown has eaten in the past couple of weeks, then you definitely have internal parasites. Soaking strained frozen foods in metroplex and focus (I’d add selcon and garlic guard for nutrition and taste) for 10-14 days would help clear the remaining fish of this ailment. I do this on all of my fish prior to DT. I feed them this way during copper without issue.

Focus binds the metro to the food so it doesn’t just rinse away in to the water column, ensuring its consumption (assuming the fish are eating).

C-Reefer · Mar 16, 2018

The only fish left in the tank is a YWG. I'm accumulating meds as this will be my first time with a QT. Meds on hand will be Seachem paraguard, Kordon Kick Ich+, and Prazi-Pro. I read paul "b"s thing on feeding fish oil, I'll eb soaking flakes in that sometimes, and soaking any dry food in garlic to boost immune system.

QT will be a 10 gal tank with a few pvc elbows, a aqueon qf30 HOB with cycled matrix in it, and a spare heater I have. WHen I get everything I'll move the YWG over, and put him through a Prazi treatment while I wait for the 2 month DT to lay fallow. After I get him done and back in DT, I'll be QTing everybody else. The $40 I spend on a QT with meds is very much worth it for QTing FW and SW. I mean, I lost $40 right there from the clowns. After this QT treatment will be get the fish, leave for a few days to watch for ich or other disease, if no ich or anything I go through a treatment of Prazi Pro, and then if theres ich do an ich treatment starting with paraguard if paraguard doesn't work use kick-ich. This will be after Prazi not at the same time. I will leave them in QT for at least 30 days, probably more like 40 to be on the safe side. Sound good?

C-Reefer · Mar 23, 2018

So.... I was originally going to get these three meds for my QT. Keep in mind I'll be using this for both FW and SW. Correct me if I'm wrong on what these should be used for

Kordon Rid Ich + (brook, ich, velvet)
Prazi (flukes/internal parasites)
Paraguard (bacterial infections, fungus, easy ich cases)

However, I'm getting conflicting info on the Paraguard. I've had one person suggest copper, but wouldn't Paraguard or Rid Ich+ do the same thing? What meds do you guys like to keep on hand? I think for the YWG when I get these meds I'll pull from DT and put in QT,let him settle down for a few days, and do a Prazi treatment. Then, when thats done I'll do I think a Rid Ich+ treatment which should kill any ich or brook that was sticking around. Will these meds work? What should I do with Paraguard? I'm really confused on these meds. Will the three meds I listed ahead work for ich, brook, velvet, internal parasites, infections, and bacterial issues? Both SW and FW?

What meds do you guys suggest?