Clownfish Help

The gill flap just looks like it is more "open" when observing from the back of the fish. It hard to get a really good look a such a small moving target. I don't think it was bitten off though because this started as a very small thing that I notice and then progressed to what is observed in the picture. The fish were a little nippy to each other in the beginning but I feel that the fish in question is bigger and was more of the aggressor out of the two. I haven't seen any aggressive behavior in the past 24-48 hours though.
 
Before I purchased my tank I did extensive research and visited 5 different LFS in the Ft. Lauderdale/Miami area and finally selected on one that I felt really comfortable with as they never pushed product on me and could also do in home service when needed without an issue. You should be able to find several other LFS where you live in Northern NJ and visit at least one of them to pick their brains.

Try speaking to the manager or owner at the store you made your purchase at as I have found them to usually be the most knowledgable and not the sales people. Make sure to voice your concerns and tell them that you were assured that it was ok to add the clowns and clearly it wasn't. They need to make this right if they expect to keep you as a customer.
 
Okay time for an update.

I went back to the LFS since they are two blocks away and I just felt like I should give them one more chance. I won't lie to you and say convenience wasn't a factor here either. They are literally 2 blocks away. Anyway I saw a guy standing at the front desk and saw his name tag referenced something that said M1 and CCE certified. He also looked like he didn't graduate from the local high school last summer either so I figured this is going to be the right guy to talk to as the manager was busy doing something and some other staff members were leading a tour with a visit from a local school.

Right away this guy seemed to hit the right notes for me. I especially felt this when I saw the look of disappointment he had on his face once I told him that I was not really advised to let the tank cycle naturally nor to take home something to boost the beneficial bacteria. He took a look at my pictures which seem a little clearer on my phone's display plus it had the benefit to zoom in easily. Right away he said he doesn't look like ich nor brooklynella but must be some kind of infection in the area. But he wasn't really willing to rule out anything and of course he tested my water.

Water data seemed to come out okay for a new tank.
PH - 8.0
Ammonia - somewhere between 0.25ppm to 0.50ppm; definitely looks closer to the 0.25ppm though
Nitrite - 0
Salt - 1.023

He said of course any ammonia is not good for fish but he feels it is unlikely to be any kind of ammonia burn since the other fish seems to be doing just normal and the results were not on the extreme side. His suggestion was to do a "Metro Dip" and a "Bifuran Dip". He then pulled Kordon Rid - Ich Plus Disease Treatment and BiFuran+. He explained to me how to use this stuff and also made a copy of some written instructions they had. This is currently the process I am doing with our patient.

He also suggested for me to get some more live rock as well as something to help that bacteria environment out. So I got another 5-lbs of live rock and a bottle of Seachem Stability. I ask him if the Seachem stability was the best one money could buy at the store and he said it is the one he likes the most. They had many other options there but since he took his time with me and was face to face with me its what I left with.

I am going to medicate this fish and watch the rest unfold. Of course he suggested to continue with water changes so I am going to do that as well.

At least I can say I feel like I found the right guy today and this was most likely something that could have happened even if the tank cycled naturally. In my opinion this is par for the course when it come to my luck in life. The easy road is never handed to me but baptism by fire certainly teaches you quickly.

I am open to hear anyone else's input on what has unfolded so far and I am sure I will update the status of our patient as she proceeds. Once again, thank you everyone for you time in reading about what is going on in my novice tank and of course all of your input which has taught me a lot. I am hoping the next post I make can be more of a positive one. Fingers are crossed for a smooth recovery over here.
 
Okay time for an update.

I went back to the LFS since they are two blocks away and I just felt like I should give them one more chance. I won't lie to you and say convenience wasn't a factor here either. They are literally 2 blocks away. Anyway I saw a guy standing at the front desk and saw his name tag referenced something that said M1 and CCE certified. He also looked like he didn't graduate from the local high school last summer either so I figured this is going to be the right guy to talk to as the manager was busy doing something and some other staff members were leading a tour with a visit from a local school.

Right away this guy seemed to hit the right notes for me. I especially felt this when I saw the look of disappointment he had on his face once I told him that I was not really advised to let the tank cycle naturally nor to take home something to boost the beneficial bacteria. He took a look at my pictures which seem a little clearer on my phone's display plus it had the benefit to zoom in easily. Right away he said he doesn't look like ich nor brooklynella but must be some kind of infection in the area. But he wasn't really willing to rule out anything and of course he tested my water.

Water data seemed to come out okay for a new tank.
PH - 8.0
Ammonia - somewhere between 0.25ppm to 0.50ppm; definitely looks closer to the 0.25ppm though
Nitrite - 0
Salt - 1.023

He said of course any ammonia is not good for fish but he feels it is unlikely to be any kind of ammonia burn since the other fish seems to be doing just normal and the results were not on the extreme side. His suggestion was to do a "Metro Dip" and a "Bifuran Dip". He then pulled Kordon Rid - Ich Plus Disease Treatment and BiFuran+. He explained to me how to use this stuff and also made a copy of some written instructions they had. This is currently the process I am doing with our patient.

He also suggested for me to get some more live rock as well as something to help that bacteria environment out. So I got another 5-lbs of live rock and a bottle of Seachem Stability. I ask him if the Seachem stability was the best one money could buy at the store and he said it is the one he likes the most. They had many other options there but since he took his time with me and was face to face with me its what I left with.

I am going to medicate this fish and watch the rest unfold. Of course he suggested to continue with water changes so I am going to do that as well.

At least I can say I feel like I found the right guy today and this was most likely something that could have happened even if the tank cycled naturally. In my opinion this is par for the course when it come to my luck in life. The easy road is never handed to me but baptism by fire certainly teaches you quickly.

I am open to hear anyone else's input on what has unfolded so far and I am sure I will update the status of our patient as she proceeds. Once again, thank you everyone for you time in reading about what is going on in my novice tank and of course all of your input which has taught me a lot. I am hoping the next post I make can be more of a positive one. Fingers are crossed for a smooth recovery over here.
In this hobby there are multiple approaches, all of which can be successful. Although I would have gone with different meds, I do believe this employee has the best in mind for you and wants you to succeed. With the parameters posted, I update my earlier post that went back and forth between ammonia burn and bacterial infection to 90% bacteria infection. The BiFuran will treat a wide range of potential bacterial infections and is certainly an acceptable substitute to the trifecta I mentioned earlier as well.

I think you should still approach this store with caution, but this employee does make me feel more confident in the store in general.
 
In this hobby there are multiple approaches, all of which can be successful. Although I would have gone with different meds, I do believe this employee has the best in mind for you and wants you to succeed. With the parameters posted, I update my earlier post that went back and forth between ammonia burn and bacterial infection to 90% bacteria infection. The BiFuran will treat a wide range of potential bacterial infections and is certainly an acceptable substitute to the trifecta I mentioned earlier as well.

I think you should still approach this store with caution, but this employee does make me feel more confident in the store in general.

Thanks ccombs. The LFS did have a wall of products to choose from but we weren't in that section. It was the wall of all sorts of products but I next time I head in there I will look specifically for those brands to be sure I can get my hands on them quickly if needed.

Caution will definitely be taken there as well going forward. I'll probably seek out more of those certified guys as well or that guy specifically now that I know.
 
Thanks ccombs. The LFS did have a wall of products to choose from but we weren't in that section. It was the wall of all sorts of products but I next time I head in there I will look specifically for those brands to be sure I can get my hands on them quickly if needed.

Caution will definitely be taken there as well going forward. I'll probably seek out more of those certified guys as well or that guy specifically now that I know.
I personally keep that trifecta on hand with copper. I keep others, but since they have an expiration, you could probably just keep those 4 things and be ready for 90% of issues.
 
In this hobby there are multiple approaches, all of which can be successful. Although I would have gone with different meds, I do believe this employee has the best in mind for you and wants you to succeed. With the parameters posted, I update my earlier post that went back and forth between ammonia burn and bacterial infection to 90% bacteria infection. The BiFuran will treat a wide range of potential bacterial infections and is certainly an acceptable substitute to the trifecta I mentioned earlier as well.

I think you should still approach this store with caution, but this employee does make me feel more confident in the store in general.

Very kindly and diplomatically put, @ccombs. I applaud you.

I'd like to add a couple or ten comments. This is all intended in the kindest way. I would also like to invite a couple of individuals with much more knowledge than me in the sick fish area like @HotRocks @4FordFamily @Humblefish to jump in.

I'm assuming that you're treating your fish in the aquarium that they are currently living in.

You have two separate issues going on.

1. You have a sick fish (maybe/probably)
2. You are cycling a new tank.

So, you need to understand that those drugs that you're treating your fish with, if used in the main tank, will kill off the beneficial bacteria that you need to help you with the cycle. They will kill the bacteria, for example, on the live rock you just bought. However, I'm assuming that you've already treated the whole tank. If so, then worry first about treating the illnesses, and just change water a lot while you make sure your medicine stays at a therapeutic level. We'll deal with the rest later.

Also, Kordon Rid-Ich Plus uses two chemicals that A) may be effective against your pathogens BUT formalin is pretty toxic, so don't get any on you (wear gloves) and malachite green is notoriously hard to dose correctly (so be careful). B) both of those drugs may lower the oxygenation of your water, so adding an extra powerhead or even an airstone and a little air pump or even a cheap filter--anything to agitate the water--is not a bad idea.

We're all here to help. <3
 
So as far as treatment earlier, I actually took tank water out and put it into a 5 Gal bucket and medicated in the bucket for 45 minutes and then put the fish back.

I was a little unclear about medicating in the bucket though. I was not sure if I was to use both medicines in the bucket at the same time or if I should have administered each dose to the fish separately. My instincts said that dosing the fish twice would be more stressful for the fish so I did just one with both meds.

The session lasted for 45 minutes with both medicines. I kept a close watch on the fish by bringing it into my home office while I took care of my other responsibilities. She was pretty in the bucket for the 45 minutes and then she went right back into the tank. I rinsed out the bucket and started preparing more salt water and added that into the tank once it was ready.

I feel like the fish seems a little happier as soon as she was back in the tank. She was swimming all over the place and look pretty happy. This medication session ended about 7 hours ago and I'd say shes been pretty active still. I fed them a little about 2 hours ago and she ate what she saw in my opinion but I don't think I saw any reduction in appetite to begin with.

Anyway, the rep from earlier said to keep an eye on things and to medicate again on Friday if I don't see any improvements. I am wondering now if that infected are will close up and that's how I can confirm an improvement or if this is just a judgement based on the fish's activity in the tank. If someone has input on that as well as any feedback on the process I took to medicate I would be more than happy to hear about it.

Thanks again.
 
I live in Northen NJ. Not too far from NYC. The LFS has a 4.6 Google rating with 650 reviews. There are other options and I will explore them.

I also don't want to jump to any crazy conclusions on them either. 650 Google reviews must mean they must be doing some right and it is a business. At the end of the day they really are there to make money, support jobs and get the bills paid. I am sure the owners are not trying to run a charity and the fact of the matter is if a customer is looking to spend $500+ you better be ready to sell that person something. However, was very open with them that I wanted to be sure that I was doing things correctly and having the knowledge to take on this hobby for the family.

If the water quality has nothing to do with it and I just bought a "lemon" fish that has some kind of bacterial infection well then that's par for the course with my luck and I get a crazy crash course in this hobby.

I think I need all the facts I can get which I should hopefully have in an hour. At that point it will be easier to make decisions as well as add or take away confidence in the local fish store.

The second fish seems to be doing really well but I also don't know if one fish can be more sensitive than the other within the genus(?).
I happen to live in that area as well. Send me a pm and Ill see if I can point you in the right direction. ;Happy
 
I happen to live in that area as well. Send me a pm and Ill see if I can point you in the right direction. ;Happy


Not sure if I tried to PM you the wrong way or what. I am still learning how to use the forum properly too. I tried starting a conversation with you but instead got an error that said "You may not start a conversation with the following recipients:..." It might be easier if you reach out to me.
 
So as far as treatment earlier, I actually took tank water out and put it into a 5 Gal bucket and medicated in the bucket for 45 minutes and then put the fish back.

I was a little unclear about medicating in the bucket though. I was not sure if I was to use both medicines in the bucket at the same time or if I should have administered each dose to the fish separately. My instincts said that dosing the fish twice would be more stressful for the fish so I did just one with both meds.

The session lasted for 45 minutes with both medicines. I kept a close watch on the fish by bringing it into my home office while I took care of my other responsibilities. She was pretty in the bucket for the 45 minutes and then she went right back into the tank. I rinsed out the bucket and started preparing more salt water and added that into the tank once it was ready.

I feel like the fish seems a little happier as soon as she was back in the tank. She was swimming all over the place and look pretty happy. This medication session ended about 7 hours ago and I'd say shes been pretty active still. I fed them a little about 2 hours ago and she ate what she saw in my opinion but I don't think I saw any reduction in appetite to begin with.

Anyway, the rep from earlier said to keep an eye on things and to medicate again on Friday if I don't see any improvements. I am wondering now if that infected are will close up and that's how I can confirm an improvement or if this is just a judgement based on the fish's activity in the tank. If someone has input on that as well as any feedback on the process I took to medicate I would be more than happy to hear about it.

Thanks again.
Don't worry, getting all of this info at once is a lot. When it comes to disease treatment, @Humblefish has seriously great write ups on them. Here is one for ich.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-cryptocaryon-irritans.191226/

That being said, I am not convinced you have ich, or at least I have not seen a post (I could have easily missed it).

If you have any doubts, search for his posts, he practically has one for every disease out there. He recommends what can be simultaneously dosed, etc.

Outside of maybe missing a post, here is what I believe is going on, and it aligns with @Seawitch.

1) Bacterial Infection (This is what the BiFuran will treat)
2) Cycling a new tank

The most fundamental part of reef keeping is the nitrogen cycle. Let me explain on a basic level below, it is actually commonly misunderstood and there are some incorrect myths about it.

Any waste in your tank (uneaten food, fish poop, etc.) breaks down and releases ammonia. Ammonia is commonly misunderstood in the US because most tests here measure TAN which is short for total ammonia nitrogen. Basically this is a mix of ammonia (toxic, for real) and ammonium (not really bad in our example). An exception is the SeaChem Ammonia Alert, which actually measures just ammonia, which is why I recommend it for tanks in the first few months. Beneficial bacteria that live on the surfaces of the tank (rock, mostly) break down the ammonia into nitrites. Nitrites are then broken down even more into Nitrates. Nitrates are relatively unharmful to fish in the concentrations we normally see. Nitrates are then exported via water changes, or used as nutrients by corals, etc.

In your new tank, the food and fish waste are building up ammonia, but unfortunately, you do not have the beneficial bacteria to break down this waste. Cycling is the process where a tank builds up this bacteria, most commonly before the fish are added (there are some alternative ways). This is why I recommended Dr. Tim's One and Only earlier, this is basically a bottle full of the bacteria to jump start the process. Will it be enough to get you through, that is a questions I cannot answer and is case by case.

Another bandaid for the problem is a product like API Ammolock or Seachem Prime. These products basically bind up the ammonia for about 24 hours so they are not toxic. They DO NOT get rid of the ammonia. They simply make it non-toxic so you fish can live until the ammonia is exported. This might be a good bandaid to keep the fish healthy and stress free, but it is not a substitution for a proper nitrogen cycle.

I would recommend getting 2 bottles of Dr. Tim's. Shake the first one up and dump it all in. Use the second one to dose a capful daily to keep the population growing. I cycled my tank in a different manner and I am using 3 different bottles bacteria products to help boost the population.

Now, This is where it gets a little complex and out of my league. Simultaneously dosing the Rid-Ich, BiFuran, Beneficial Bacteria, and Ammonia Detoxifier might have some conflicts.

As Seawitch stated, the meds will knock out your beneficial bacteria, so now it is even more of an uphill battle. I do not know the extent and damage it will do to the bacteria, but it sure is not helping.

I know that is a lot of info at once. My recommendation is to choose one topic that we have discussed at a time, handle that issue, then move on to the next. A smooth and methodical approach will get you through this!
 
Don't worry, getting all of this info at once is a lot. When it comes to disease treatment, @Humblefish has seriously great write ups on them. Here is one for ich.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-cryptocaryon-irritans.191226/

That being said, I am not convinced you have ich, or at least I have not seen a post (I could have easily missed it).

If you have any doubts, search for his posts, he practically has one for every disease out there. He recommends what can be simultaneously dosed, etc.

Outside of maybe missing a post, here is what I believe is going on, and it aligns with @Seawitch.

1) Bacterial Infection (This is what the BiFuran will treat)
2) Cycling a new tank

The most fundamental part of reef keeping is the nitrogen cycle. Let me explain on a basic level below, it is actually commonly misunderstood and there are some incorrect myths about it.

Any waste in your tank (uneaten food, fish poop, etc.) breaks down and releases ammonia. Ammonia is commonly misunderstood in the US because most tests here measure TAN which is short for total ammonia nitrogen. Basically this is a mix of ammonia (toxic, for real) and ammonium (not really bad in our example). An exception is the SeaChem Ammonia Alert, which actually measures just ammonia, which is why I recommend it for tanks in the first few months. Beneficial bacteria that live on the surfaces of the tank (rock, mostly) break down the ammonia into nitrites. Nitrites are then broken down even more into Nitrates. Nitrates are relatively unharmful to fish in the concentrations we normally see. Nitrates are then exported via water changes, or used as nutrients by corals, etc.

In your new tank, the food and fish waste are building up ammonia, but unfortunately, you do not have the beneficial bacteria to break down this waste. Cycling is the process where a tank builds up this bacteria, most commonly before the fish are added (there are some alternative ways). This is why I recommended Dr. Tim's One and Only earlier, this is basically a bottle full of the bacteria to jump start the process. Will it be enough to get you through, that is a questions I cannot answer and is case by case.

Another bandaid for the problem is a product like API Ammolock or Seachem Prime. These products basically bind up the ammonia for about 24 hours so they are not toxic. They DO NOT get rid of the ammonia. They simply make it non-toxic so you fish can live until the ammonia is exported. This might be a good bandaid to keep the fish healthy and stress free, but it is not a substitution for a proper nitrogen cycle.

I would recommend getting 2 bottles of Dr. Tim's. Shake the first one up and dump it all in. Use the second one to dose a capful daily to keep the population growing. I cycled my tank in a different manner and I am using 3 different bottles bacteria products to help boost the population.

Now, This is where it gets a little complex and out of my league. Simultaneously dosing the Rid-Ich, BiFuran, Beneficial Bacteria, and Ammonia Detoxifier might have some conflicts.

As Seawitch stated, the meds will knock out your beneficial bacteria, so now it is even more of an uphill battle. I do not know the extent and damage it will do to the bacteria, but it sure is not helping.

I know that is a lot of info at once. My recommendation is to choose one topic that we have discussed at a time, handle that issue, then move on to the next. A smooth and methodical approach will get you through this!


So a couple of questions to this...

1. The Seachem product they sold me says it prevents "New Tank Syndrome" similar to what is advertised on Dr. Tim's according to the picture of the bottle I see on Amazon. The product I picked up today was Seachem Stability. Would getting these two bottles be a bad idea in addition to using the Seachem or should I stop using the Seachem and just go with Dr. Tim's?

2. Would having medicated the fish outside the tank still an impactful effect the bacteria population inside the tank? Seems like the point of using the bucket was to prevent that from happening but I guess whatever is left on the fish could contaminate the tank too. Just curious about this.

3. This is back to my initial question above, how do I know the fish is better/cured? Is that infected area going to clear up or is just just based on judgment of observation of the fish? The fish has never been as active as I am witnessing now. It used to basically stay in one corner but now it's all over the tank.

Also, I agree that its not Ich. There are no visible spots on the fish and the only thing that is really seen is that inflamed redness area by the gill.

I do agree though. This needs to be tackles one stage at a time really. Too many changes would definitely be hard to control and understand. I'm trying to take this a slow as possible now.

I plan on doing a 10% water change very soon as well as a water test too just to see what kind of changes I see from earlier this morning.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
So a couple of questions to this...

1. The Seachem product they sold me says it prevents "New Tank Syndrome" similar to what is advertised on Dr. Tim's according to the picture of the bottle I see on Amazon. The product I picked up today was Seachem Stability. Would getting these two bottles be a bad idea in addition to using the Seachem or should I stop using the Seachem and just go with Dr. Tim's?

2. Would having medicated the fish outside the tank still an impactful effect the bacteria population inside the tank? Seems like the point of using the bucket was to prevent that from happening but I guess whatever is left on the fish could contaminate the tank too. Just curious about this.

3. This is back to my initial question above, how do I know the fish is better/cured? Is that infected area going to clear up or is just just based on judgment of observation of the fish? The fish has never been as active as I am witnessing now. It used to basically stay in one corner but now it's all over the tank.

Also, I agree that its not Ich. There are no visible spots on the fish and the only thing that is really seen is that inflamed redness area by the gill.

I do agree though. This needs to be tackles one stage at a time really. Too many changes would definitely be hard to control and understand. I'm trying to take this a slow as possible now.

I plan on doing a 10% water change very soon as well as a water test too just to see what kind of changes I see from earlier this morning.
Ok, the Seachem product you have is pretty much the same thing. Add the recommended dose now, and keep dosing a little every day for a month. You cannot overdose it. Keep using the Seachem, that will work just fine.

I misread about the medication. If you are giving them a bath outside of the tank, that will not affect the beneficial bacteria in any noticeable way.

The infected area will clear up, you will see that it is gone. I would recommend holding off on the ich medication if you haven't used it. The fish are going through a lot right now, might be worth waiting until you need it.

You are doing great so far, just keep up the water changes, add some more bacteria every day (you could use the Seachem, Dr. Tim's, Microbacter7, Biospora, etc.)
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Ok, the Seachem product you have is pretty much the same thing. Add the recommended dose now, and keep dosing a little every day for a month. You cannot overdose it. Keep using the Seachem, that will work just fine.

I misread about the medication. If you are giving them a bath outside of the tank, that will not affect the beneficial bacteria in any noticeable way.

The infected area will clear up, you will see that it is gone. I would recommend holding off on the ich medication if you haven't used it. The fish are going through a lot right now, might be worth waiting until you need it.

You are doing great so far, just keep up the water changes, add some more bacteria every day (you could use the Seachem, Dr. Tim's, Microbacter7, Biospora, etc.)


Awesome, thank you! That's exactly the direct feedback I was hoping for.

Alright. It seems I have my plan and I'll stick to it.

I'll update with anything that I think is worth sharing.

Thank you everyone.
 
Awesome, thank you! That's exactly the direct feedback I was hoping for.

Alright. It seems I have my plan and I'll stick to it.

I'll update with anything that I think is worth sharing.

Thank you everyone.
Props to you by the way. Asking for advice and listening to it are some really fundamental aspects to being successful in the hobby.

Like you, I got a really rough start, but this forum got me through it. Keep it up and you will be just fine!
 
While you already seem to have lots of information to absorb in the above posts, I'm just going to say this... It is normal to be overwhelmed at first. I go to my lfs and I love them -- but there are certain sales people that I avoid like the plague. I learned that through trial and error and in some cases the loss of life in my tanks. I'm sure your store is very reputable; but now you know to be cautious with the information they give you. You have done nothing wrong here -- someone you thought you could trust just gave you bad advice about setting up a tank. Read lots on this forum. Read lots elsewhere. Watch YouTube videos (BRS has a wonderful series of 52 weeks of reefing.) Suddenly, a switch will flip and everything starts to make sense. Good luck!
 
wow
Sounds like a nice store EXCEPT, 2 hrs of conversation and they NEVER MENTIONED CYCLING?
Pics look like gill burns from both high level of ammonia and nitrate and low salinity. 1.024 - 1.026 should be your target. Additionally, do an immediate water change to reduce ammonia and increase salinity. Add liquid bacteria such as fritz turbo start 900 or dr Tim to assist with rapid cycling now that fish are already in the tank
 
I agree with @vetteguy53081 . You may just be seeing gill burns from ammonia. I still think you should be doing rapid water changes like every day for the next few days to get the ammonia down.

And if you're medicating in the bucket, especially with the Kordon Rid-Ich, add a powerhead or airstone to bucket to agitate the water and increase oxygenation.
 
A couple of things. I don't think these have been addressed yet.

1) for water and salinity testing I recommend you get a good refractometer to test and not a hydrometer, most of which are not very accurate.

2) for your tap water, what you need to test for is Total Dissolved Solids or TDS. Unless your tap water is coming out at zero TDS, it's unlikely you will be able to use your tap water for long term success. It's good that you're testing 0 nitrates, but that's not enough. You really need to be using RO/DI water to mix your saltwater. You can either buy it at an LFS or most of us get a small unit that we install in our homes and make water at home which is cheaper in the long run. This water issue, however, is not the most important issue right this second. Your more important issues are getting the ammonia down in your tank (change some water) and treating your fish if they are sick, as opposed to just having gill burn.

Just trying to help.
 
I will give my 2¢. Your LFS just wants your money. They sold you all of this and sent you home with a lot to deal with. You went back to then and they got you to spend more money.

I understand this hobby is difficult and requires lots of research. Sometimes people trust their LFS but you must keep in mind that they’re a business.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top