I know you were the one that started this thread to ask questions but do you mind making a little tutorial on how you raise your clownfish?
Hi there. Sorry for the late reply. I will definitely share my process with everyone below in seperate parts as having the time to cover everything in one post would be har! Anyways, I hope the following details help.
Firstly, if any of you would like to follow my progress, ask questions etc. Please follow my page on Facebook - AdzAquatics
PART 1 - I will try to keep this as simple as possible and cover as many points I can. Please bare in mind that I am no writer, lol!
Hatch Tank Setup & Equipment Checklist:
• 24L Hatch Tanks with lids to massively reduce condensation for each batch.
• 50w Heaters for each tank (unless you run an all in one plumbed system).
• Seachem Ammonia alert badge - these have helped massively.
• Thermometers for each tank.
• Strong Air pump and air line tubing.
• Sponge filters - I always to make sure that I have filter sponges in my main display/sump so I will always have a seeded filter for the hatch tanks which will be used at day 7.
• Seachem Prime
• TDO Food for the fry and Rotifers up till day 13
• Phytoplankton, (for the rotifers)
• Clay pot for the eggs and a replacement to swap out for the parents
• Hanna salinity checker or Refractometer
• Small dim lighting
Hatch Prep:
I will usually wait until the day before my eggs hatch before I pull the pot and place it in my hatching tanks. I will use fresh saltwater at 1.020 specific gravity for the hatching tanks. My tanks will also all be run at 28C as well. When filling the tank with the fresh water the night before, I will mark on the tank with a marker pen the water level I fill it to (this will usually be about 1/4 full or just above the height of a clay pot). It is important to keep the water level lower the first couple of days so it is earlier for the fry to catch the food (rotifers) as there is less area for them to have to swim to catch the food. The marker pen will help to keep track of your salinity as you will be able to easily see when your tank needs topping up with RO. It is also important to tint the water with phytoplankton so the fry are protected from the light and also so that your rotifers are always gut loaded for more nutrition for your fry.
When pulling the eggs, I cover the hole in the pot with my thumb and lift it out of the water, by doing this, it will stop the water from draining out of the pot and the eggs will be fully submerged to reduce any issues that can be caused when they are exposed to air. I will then simply place this pot in the hatching tank with the air-stone gently bubbling against the eggs. Finally I will completely black out the tank on all sides with bin liners/bags and cello tape for the hatch. 30 minutes after lights out/blackout, the eggs will start hatching for me. After the hatch I will leave the tank blacked out until the morning.
Day 1:
So let’s say you now have a batch of hatched fry and it is the morning after the hatch.. now what?
I will now remove the cover of bin liners from the lid to start with and I will keep the lid off for 1 day. I will also switch on a dim light and keep it on for 24/7 and above the tank for the first 3 weeks. (Make sure the water is tinted with the phyto before switching on the light if you haven’t tinted it yet).
Next I will add the rotifers. From my culture I use my rotifer sieve to drain out a good amount of rotifers for the fry, I simply add this to the hatch tank. I don’t really have a specific amount that I add to the hatch tank, I gauge this from experience and it is a different amount every hatch depending on the amount of fry you . The best rule of thumb is to always have 1 rotifer per fry length. Ok but what if my water is tinted and I can’t see the fry? You can shine a dim torch in the tank and put it up against the side of the glass. You will eventually be able to see one of the fry come to the light and then check if the density of your rotifers are at a good point.
Continuously check the phyto tint, rotifer density, PH and the salinity throughout the day and keep it at the recommended levels.
Thanks for reading and let me know if this was any help and if you want a part 2
