Clownfish not doing so hot...any ideas?

Subliminal

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 7, 2023
Messages
305
Reaction score
259
Location
Princeton
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
So, I've really had some trials with these clownfish.

Bought a pair and one beat up the other so bad it died. Replaced it and same thing started happening, so I returned the dominant one to the pet store and got a smaller one.

The one I returned to the pet store is still there and looking great.

The one I got to replace him seemed fine until I turned on the light this AM. He seems like he can't get his tail level, doing all the swimming from the front, and the black on his tail seems faded.

Here he is a few days ago:
IMG_2944.jpg


And here's today:
IMG_2994.jpg


Tank is roughly a month old, with all rock from an established tank. Corals (softies/Duncan/Zoas) are all doing fine, as is the BTA. Fire shrimp molted and seems happy, as do the rest of the CUC.

Evo 13.5 Gallon
Salinity is ~1.026
Ammonia Detector jobber is yellow (no ammonia detected)
I do weekly water changes of ~3 gallons
I only have test strips, but they show pH somewhere between 7.5 and 8 and no (or very low) NO2 and NO3
 
So, I've really had some trials with these clownfish.

Bought a pair and one beat up the other so bad it died. Replaced it and same thing started happening, so I returned the dominant one to the pet store and got a smaller one.

The one I returned to the pet store is still there and looking great.

The one I got to replace him seemed fine until I turned on the light this AM. He seems like he can't get his tail level, doing all the swimming from the front, and the black on his tail seems faded.

Here he is a few days ago:
IMG_2944.jpg


And here's today:
IMG_2994.jpg


Tank is roughly a month old, with all rock from an established tank. Corals (softies/Duncan/Zoas) are all doing fine, as is the BTA. Fire shrimp molted and seems happy, as do the rest of the CUC.

Evo 13.5 Gallon
Salinity is ~1.026
Ammonia Detector jobber is yellow (no ammonia detected)
I do weekly water changes of ~3 gallons
I only have test strips, but they show pH somewhere between 7.5 and 8 and no (or very low) NO2 and NO3
Test strips also work in freshwater and are very unreliable as is ammonia badge which works up front but sits in water full time through many chemical changes. Fish dont talk - test kits do- Invest in reliable test kits. I will not trust a $7 test to sustain and maintain hundreds in coral. Take a water sample to reliable LFS that does NOT use Api kits and have them test for you.
On your clown (pic is hazy/fuzzy) looks to be excess mucus often associated with clown disease known as Brooklynella. The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. The thick mucus on the rest of its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials
 
@vetteguy53081

I took a video as the image wasn't so clear. It doesn't look like 'mucus' to me, but I don't know anything.

Same diagnosis from video? Thank you so much!
there is sound - no image and will need at least 20 seconds under white lighting. I see duration is 8 seconds
You tube videos work best
 
@vetteguy53081 Yeah...it was taking its sweet time. It's there now. Thanks!
Whoa - that sure looks like severe Brooklynella to me. The fish also seems a bit thin. It is going to be really difficult to treat this in time.

Jay
 
dang. Ok, so freshwater bath, then treat with stuff I need to find. My nearest saltwater fish store is a good drive from here. Petco delivers but doesn't seem to have anything you mentioned...Amazon, but that's a day or two out.

I'll start researching! Thank you again.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top