Clownfish stopped eating

AndrewNC

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So I've had him for about a week now. The first 2/3 days he was eating everything. Which included pellets and brine shrimp. For the last couple days he hasn't eaten anything. All my other clownfish and goby go crazy but this little guy doesn't go after the food at all. No spots or noticeable sickness on him. All my levels are on point and still stable. Nothing has changed. He swims all around the tank. I just purchased some Larrys Fish Frenzy too see maybe if he'll eat that as I heard it was pretty good stuff. Contemplating wether or not to take him back to the LFS. Ive read in other post that some new additions do this for awhile than start eating. However he was eating the first 2 days.
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Definitely not normal for a clownfish to stop eating, as they are some of the hardiest fish around.

But I think we need to rule out environmental factors before moving onto a possible disease issue. Is this the only fish in your tank? How long has the tank been setup? And when you say all "levels are on point and still stable" does that mean you get 0 ammonia and a pH of 8.0 - 8.3 when you test?
 
There's another bigger clown and diamond goby.

Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
PH 8.0-8.2
Alkalinity 7
Phosphate 0
Calcium 440
Magnesium 1320

I got a medium sized clown first than added this much smaller clown.

I tried a mixed seafood and every other fish went crazy for it except this little clown. However, last night I did see the clown picking on the rocks possibly eating pods, not sure. He swims around but not as actively as others and does seem to be breathing more heavy.
 
Do you have a small breeder box you can put him in and try feeding? I wonder if the bigger clown is bothering him.
 
Do you have a small breeder box you can put him in and try feeding? I wonder if the bigger clown is bothering him.

+1 If the heavy breathing continues I would give him a FW dip (see below) to check for flukes.

Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.


Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
 

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