Clownfish struggling

Patience1!

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Hi everyone,

I’ve had this clownfish pair for about 10 years. No changes to the tank, no additions in about as long.

My female is laying in her side struggling. I did feed more mysis shrimp than usual lately so I’m thinking swim bladder but who knows. Everyone else is ok including her mate. Water parameters are fine. I did a water change last week.

Anything I can do? Thoughts on what this might be? I don’t want to lose her she’s been my pet forever…
 
Hi everyone,

I’ve had this clownfish pair for about 10 years. No changes to the tank, no additions in about as long.

My female is laying in her side struggling. I did feed more mysis shrimp than usual lately so I’m thinking swim bladder but who knows. Everyone else is ok including her mate. Water parameters are fine. I did a water change last week.

Anything I can do? Thoughts on what this might be? I don’t want to lose her she’s been my pet forever…


Can you post a video?

Swim bladder infections almost always cause the fish to be more buoyant, not lay on the bottom. Ruptured swim bladders can cause this, but that is rare.

All fish are slightly negatively buoyant, so if they are weak, they tend to sink.

While 20+ years is the record for clownfish in captivity, 10 years is much longer than average. There are some chronic conditions, like Mycobacterium, that can cause health issues in older fish/

Jay
 
Can you post a video?

Swim bladder infections almost always cause the fish to be more buoyant, not lay on the bottom. Ruptured swim bladders can cause this, but that is rare.

All fish are slightly negatively buoyant, so if they are weak, they tend to sink.

While 20+ years is the record for clownfish in captivity, 10 years is much longer than average. There are some chronic conditions, like Mycobacterium, that can cause health issues in older fish/

Jay
She’s pretty much laying on the bottom now poor girl. I thought they lived a lot longer… so this might just be old age?

That makes my heart hurt.
 
Can you post a video?

Swim bladder infections almost always cause the fish to be more buoyant, not lay on the bottom. Ruptured swim bladders can cause this, but that is rare.

All fish are slightly negatively buoyant, so if they are weak, they tend to sink.

While 20+ years is the record for clownfish in captivity, 10 years is much longer than average. There are some chronic conditions, like Mycobacterium, that can cause health issues in older fish/

Jay
Thanks Jay. How would one treat mycobacterium? She’s been with me for ten years and I bought her from a fellow aquarist so she may be older as she was a nice size when I bought her. She’s a gold stripe Maroon not sure that makes any difference as far as longevity… all the fish are seniors in this tank. My watchman goby is also about that age maybe even older.
 
mycobacterium is an aerobic waterborne bacterium often chronic and progressive with an individual fish caused by an acid like mycobacteria. Symptoms often are uncoordinated swimming, skin ulcers, abdominal swelling, kidney and liver issues, weight loss and can be associated with age and often caused by warm water temps, low dissolved oxygen levels, pH issues and other environmental issues.
If they shed their intestinal tract, you will find fish laying down. To my knowledge, this condition can be managed by pristine water quality and is considered non-treatable. As Jay mentioned, age may play a factor. I hope my clowns make it ten years.
 
Thank you. I guess I have been lucky with the pair. My water is good but I’ll retest tonight. I did add a bottle of copepods last weekend. I had hoped that she was just constipated from eating too much. :-(
 
If you want to try to treat mycobacteria (mycobacterium marinium - is a cousin of mycobacterium tuberculosis - which causes TB) - you could TRY minocycline in a hospital tank (Maracyn 2). Mycobacteria are often resistant (or become resistant) to single agents, but if you want to try something, that would be my recommendation. Good luck - and hope things work out for you!!
 
Thanks Jay. How would one treat mycobacterium? She’s been with me for ten years and I bought her from a fellow aquarist so she may be older as she was a nice size when I bought her. She’s a gold stripe Maroon not sure that makes any difference as far as longevity… all the fish are seniors in this tank. My watchman goby is also about that age maybe even older.

A video might help me rule out other possible diagnoses. Here is a write-up I did on Mycobacteria:

Mycobacterium infection (AKA "Fish Tuberculosis") is a common, yet often misdiagnosed bacterial disease of freshwater and marine fish. It has zoonotic potential as it can infect humans through cuts in the skin.

Symptoms are varied and non-specific, and can include; darkened coloration, emaciation, fin erosion, skin ulcers, and granulomas on the internal organs (which will stain for gram positive, acid-fast bacteria). In most cases, the disease is chronic and slow acting, with most fish succumbing due to "old age". However, in some species, held under crowded conditions, acute Mycobacterium infections have been seen, where a high percentage of the population will die, even at a young age. This has been noted in cichlids, pupfish, pirate perch and zebra danios.

Many treatments for Mycobacterium infections in fish have been proposed, but none work well. Antibiotics that have been used include; erythromycin, kanamycin, and rifampicin. It is probable that any drug used would need to be dosed orally, especially if freshwater fish are being treated. Control is the best course of action; maintain optimal water quality, avoid overcrowding, and remove any dead fish promptly.

Atypical Mycobacterium, M. chelonae, M. fortuitum, M. marinum are very common in the environment, and therefore are found in aquariums. They are difficult to culture but can be isolated from virtually every aquarium if you sample properly. They are commonly found in frozen seafood items, so the chance of them being introduced into aquariums is consistently high.

Sterilization of infected tank decorations and equipment is difficult, and not strongly advised since these bacteria are already in the environment, but > 200 ppm sodium hypochlorite for > 1 hour has been shown to be effective (Noga 2010).

Jay
 

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