Clownfish suspected disease

snoopsreef

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Hi all

First post on here

my tank has been up and running 3 weeks now. I’m using NSW. No water changes as yet as I’m still cycling.

One of my clowns has white patches on him. I have attached a picture as that will explain better. Is this Brook disease. The fish has been eating well.
Many thanks

ECB8B9E2-269F-4827-9E55-F78ADE3CF882.jpeg CE2C9FFE-B78C-4323-A2B3-FC252C705459.jpeg
 
Hi all

First post on here

my tank has been up and running 3 weeks now. I’m using NSW. No water changes as yet as I’m still cycling.

One of my clowns has white patches on him. I have attached a picture as that will explain better. Is this Brook disease. The fish has been eating well.
Many thanks

ECB8B9E2-269F-4827-9E55-F78ADE3CF882.jpeg CE2C9FFE-B78C-4323-A2B3-FC252C705459.jpeg
Does appear to be brroklynella.
The most noticeable symptom of Brooklynella is the heavy amount of slime that is produced by a fish that has contracted this parasite. As the disease progresses, a thick whitish mucus covers the body. This will usually start at the head and spread outward across the entire body. Skin lesions appear and it is not uncommon for signs of secondary bacterial infections.
Typical treatment is a standard formalin solution is mixed with either fresh or saltwater in a separate treatment container. Initially, all fish are given a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration, followed by continued treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank (QT). Of course, the longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this disease.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief may be provided by giving fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
 
Does appear to be brroklynella.
The most noticeable symptom of Brooklynella is the heavy amount of slime that is produced by a fish that has contracted this parasite. As the disease progresses, a thick whitish mucus covers the body. This will usually start at the head and spread outward across the entire body. Skin lesions appear and it is not uncommon for signs of secondary bacterial infections.
Typical treatment is a standard formalin solution is mixed with either fresh or saltwater in a separate treatment container. Initially, all fish are given a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration, followed by continued treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank (QT). Of course, the longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this disease.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief may be provided by giving fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
Thank you for the reply and advice. I will
Follow this.
In regards to my DT, I’ve read I need to leave it 6 weeks now before adding any more fish. How can I keep cycling ? Do I add food daily ? Thanks
 
Most folks in both fresh and saltwater hobby don’t cycle with fish in the tank any longer — it’s not humane and there other ways to accomplish a cycle. You can ghost feed or just put a piece of shrimp in, or use bottle bac and ammonium chloride.
 
Thank you for the reply and advice. I will
Follow this.
In regards to my DT, I’ve read I need to leave it 6 weeks now before adding any more fish. How can I keep cycling ? Do I add food daily ? Thanks
Display- 30-45 days and no need to feed
 
Hi all

First post on here

my tank has been up and running 3 weeks now. I’m using NSW. No water changes as yet as I’m still cycling.

One of my clowns has white patches on him. I have attached a picture as that will explain better. Is this Brook disease. The fish has been eating well.
Many thanks

ECB8B9E2-269F-4827-9E55-F78ADE3CF882.jpeg CE2C9FFE-B78C-4323-A2B3-FC252C705459.jpeg

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

I see what seems to be a moderate case of marine ich, Cryptocaryon. In the right picture, the clown also looks kind of thin.

Can you post a short video of the fish? That can help confirm the diagnosis. Treating ich will be a bit difficult if you have invertebrates in the tank - the two best treatments are copper (in a hospital tank) or low salinity.

Jay
 
Hi all

Both of my clowns turned very pale, breathing fast, then went all limp. They didn’t make it. Appreciate all the help
Though.

So just to confirm.
I leave my tank running as it is to finish the cycle, don’t add any fish for 30-45 days, no need to feed.
Do I need to do Water changes ?
 
Hi all

Both of my clowns turned very pale, breathing fast, then went all limp. They didn’t make it. Appreciate all the help
Though.

So just to confirm.
I leave my tank running as it is to finish the cycle, don’t add any fish for 30-45 days, no need to feed.
Do I need to do Water changes ?
Sorry to hear.

The minimum time you tank needs to be fishless is 45 days at 81 F. However, going longer than that is safer. If your invertebrates can't handle 81 F., then you need to go the full term of 75 days.

Normally I don't suggest people need to feed their tank during this fallow period, but your tank was only three weeks old, so you should put a pinch of food in every few days to keep the bacteria growing.

I would strongly suggest you quarantine new fish, buy pre quarantined fish.

Jay
 
Hi Jay

thank you for your help.
Would you do any water changes ?
Uv on, skimmer off
 
Hi Jay

thank you for your help.
Would you do any water changes ?
Uv on, skimmer off
Water changes, while siphoning off the gravel, helps remove resting stages of parasites.

For a fallow period, I suggest leaving the UV and the skimmer on (though the skimmer probably won't collect much). The beneficial bacteria lives on surfaces, so won't go through the UV.

Jay
 

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