I see my calcium is high, what is the best way to lower it, cut the dosing for a day or just lower it to correct it
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Any regular water changes?I have been using brs 2 part and tropic marin part C.
80 gallons total including sump
For filtration i have filter floss, a curve 5 skimmer, and a small refugium.
Small amount of carbon but i cant remember how much, no GFO, no bio pellets.
Allow coral to absorb without adding any and test each 48 hrs until you obtain levelI see my calcium is high, what is the best way to lower it, cut the dosing for a day or just lower it to correct it
Last test the phosphate came back at 0.07 and it was done on a Hanna checker so i dont know what to think about it. That iodine/iodide will it get fixed with water change? Or do i have to dose it?Looks to me like you need some Iodine/Iodide. The Chaeto is probably growing well because you have a lot of phosphate. In my experience the Triton results for PO4 come back much lower than what is in the tank and what the Hanna checker shows. I think it has something to do with the ICP, water not being tested right away. So I tend to go with what the Hanna says for phosphate.
Thats a nice tank, i had some luck but then everything started going downhill. My buddy doesnt even do water changes or tests and everything he puts in the tank grows like weed. At first i thought he was doing everything wrong now im thinking im doing everything wrong. Its so interesting like you said why some people have issues and others dontI do about 10g water change every 3-4 months and my corals don’t seem to have issues with trace elements? It is a 80g with 40g sump.
Just curious as it is something I do wonder about.
I don’t have any fancy named acros but what I have seems to have appropriate color and is growing. I have a 20g fuge that grows quickly.
Actually have no fish as I pulled them to go fallow in preparation for an move/upgrade. Been fallow 35 days.
pics for discussion of why one person would have trace element issues and not everyone?
Sorry for blue light, it is nighttime.
I dose ESV 2 part but I didn’t think the trace in that is enough?
Do we really think the OPs problem is purely trace element? Enough so to cause death of corals?
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I always struggle with high phosphates and low nitrates. Now that i have been dosing nitrates for a while finally i have been able to get some stability on both but im on the low end of things.I had similar problems... But lately doing better. I checked par and bumped the sps to over 250 range. Increased nitrate to 12 and phosphate over 0.1. Anything less and my sps start dying. So far everything is doing much better.
Yes i do, i always dip the corals with koral MD, i have inspected and i like going to the tank with a flashlight her and there and i havent seen anything out of the ordinary. Coraline algae is growing all ovet the place, most of my rock is covered with coraline and some of the back wallOP do you dip all your coral? Have you inspected for small pests like redbugs, monti nudis etc....? I seriously doubt iodine/trace elements is the culprit if your doing at least some water changes. Are you getting coraline algae growth at all? You mentioned no polyp extension earlier which also makes me think it could possibly be some type of pest.
Thats a nice tank, i had some luck but then everything started going downhill. My buddy doesnt even do water changes or tests and everything he puts in the tank grows like weed. At first i thought he was doing everything wrong now im thinking im doing everything wrong. Its so interesting like you said why some people have issues and others dont
I don’t know if it’s the culprit for a fading monti but low iodine has been an issue for me and according to this guy who is pretty well respected and proven. Plus, OP in this thread tested 0.OP do you dip all your coral? Have you inspected for small pests like redbugs, monti nudis etc....? I seriously doubt iodine/trace elements is the culprit if your doing at least some water changes. Are you getting coraline algae growth at all? You mentioned no polyp extension earlier which also makes me think it could possibly be some type of pest.
Since there is no great way to test Iodine, I stick with dosing potassium iodide which oxidizes quicker and not straight iodine, which can be very bad if there is too much in the water.Looking into ICP tests and iodine. It appears they are not accurate for iodine levels? At least according to this article if I am reading this right?
Iodine does deplete quickly but added back with foods. I doubt there is much harm in dosing a little with his coralline growth.
The wavelengths used for iodine detection in a standard ICP are all in the ultraviolet, with 178.215 nm being the normal first choice for iodine because of the strength of the emission at that wavelength. According Varian (the manufacturer of the ICP that I used to test my samples), the detection limit at that wavelength is about 0.6 ppm (far above natural seawater levels). This wavelength also has potential interference from phosphorus that emits near this wavelength (178.222 nm). The second choice line at 182.976 nm has a detection limit of 4.3 ppm. (again, according to Varian). So one can see that ICP using optical emission detection is not typically a good choice for measuring low levels of iodine (as in natural levels around 0.06 ppm), but can work for substantially elevated levels (greater than 0.6 ppm iodine).
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Chemistry And The Aquarium: Iodine in Marine Aquaria: Part I
This first article will cover what is known about iodine in the oceans, including what forms it takes and how toxic these forms are, what organisms use it, how they obtain it, and what they use it for. It will also detail some issues around iodine measurement and what natural sources of iodine...reefs.com

