C'mon, man. Its always something

  • Thread starter Thread starter yan2pr
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None
I see my calcium is high, what is the best way to lower it, cut the dosing for a day or just lower it to correct it
 
I have been using brs 2 part and tropic marin part C.
80 gallons total including sump
For filtration i have filter floss, a curve 5 skimmer, and a small refugium.
Small amount of carbon but i cant remember how much, no GFO, no bio pellets.
Any regular water changes?

My guess is the system is depleted in trace elements. I think your idea of an icp is good, please post your results here if you do!
 
Yes, i forgot to add it, i usually do a 15 gal water change every 2 to 3 weeks. Not too consistent with that
 
I see my calcium is high, what is the best way to lower it, cut the dosing for a day or just lower it to correct it
Allow coral to absorb without adding any and test each 48 hrs until you obtain level
 
Update: Still waiting for the ICP test results but the montis keep fading, from red they went pinkish pale. I noticed my chaeto has exploded, i have no idea why but this guy went full godzilla on me. I took out a decent chunk nothing too crazy i didnt want to do anything drastic ill wait couple of days and take some more. Does it make sense to you guys that maybe the chaeto is pulling too much elements from the water causing my montis to fade?
 
Capture+_2021-02-13-23-12-19~2.png
Capture+_2021-02-13-23-12-56~2.png
Capture+_2021-02-13-23-13-15~2.png
Capture+_2021-02-13-23-13-26~2.png
 
Looks to me like you need some Iodine/Iodide. The Chaeto is probably growing well because you have a lot of phosphate. In my experience the Triton results for PO4 come back much lower than what is in the tank and what the Hanna checker shows. I think it has something to do with the ICP, water not being tested right away. So I tend to go with what the Hanna says for phosphate.
 
I do about 10g water change every 3-4 months and my corals don’t seem to have issues with trace elements? It is a 80g with 40g sump.

Just curious as it is something I do wonder about.

I don’t have any fancy named acros but what I have seems to have appropriate color and is growing. I have a 20g fuge that grows quickly.

Actually have no fish as I pulled them to go fallow in preparation for an move/upgrade. Been fallow 35 days.

pics for discussion of why one person would have trace element issues and not everyone?

Sorry for blue light, it is nighttime.

I dose ESV 2 part but I didn’t think the trace in that is enough?

Do we really think the OPs problem is purely trace element? Enough so to cause death of corals?

204BE047-F64D-43B5-9A38-71E70383F557.jpeg


27B3FC2F-AEA2-43B4-96A8-8FD5745B7346.jpeg

ABBDFEF3-5471-40BB-AD25-25321D314BF8.jpeg

35127F99-6AC2-4C25-B610-8C4907A41EEC.jpeg


F0BEA6B0-61C0-425E-9DE9-6BF20CA67114.jpeg
 
Looks to me like you need some Iodine/Iodide. The Chaeto is probably growing well because you have a lot of phosphate. In my experience the Triton results for PO4 come back much lower than what is in the tank and what the Hanna checker shows. I think it has something to do with the ICP, water not being tested right away. So I tend to go with what the Hanna says for phosphate.
Last test the phosphate came back at 0.07 and it was done on a Hanna checker so i dont know what to think about it. That iodine/iodide will it get fixed with water change? Or do i have to dose it?
 
I do about 10g water change every 3-4 months and my corals don’t seem to have issues with trace elements? It is a 80g with 40g sump.

Just curious as it is something I do wonder about.

I don’t have any fancy named acros but what I have seems to have appropriate color and is growing. I have a 20g fuge that grows quickly.

Actually have no fish as I pulled them to go fallow in preparation for an move/upgrade. Been fallow 35 days.

pics for discussion of why one person would have trace element issues and not everyone?

Sorry for blue light, it is nighttime.

I dose ESV 2 part but I didn’t think the trace in that is enough?

Do we really think the OPs problem is purely trace element? Enough so to cause death of corals?

204BE047-F64D-43B5-9A38-71E70383F557.jpeg


27B3FC2F-AEA2-43B4-96A8-8FD5745B7346.jpeg

ABBDFEF3-5471-40BB-AD25-25321D314BF8.jpeg

35127F99-6AC2-4C25-B610-8C4907A41EEC.jpeg


F0BEA6B0-61C0-425E-9DE9-6BF20CA67114.jpeg
Thats a nice tank, i had some luck but then everything started going downhill. My buddy doesnt even do water changes or tests and everything he puts in the tank grows like weed. At first i thought he was doing everything wrong now im thinking im doing everything wrong. Its so interesting like you said why some people have issues and others dont
 
I had similar problems... But lately doing better. I checked par and bumped the sps to over 250 range. Increased nitrate to 12 and phosphate over 0.1. Anything less and my sps start dying. So far everything is doing much better.
 
I had similar problems... But lately doing better. I checked par and bumped the sps to over 250 range. Increased nitrate to 12 and phosphate over 0.1. Anything less and my sps start dying. So far everything is doing much better.
I always struggle with high phosphates and low nitrates. Now that i have been dosing nitrates for a while finally i have been able to get some stability on both but im on the low end of things.
 
OP do you dip all your coral? Have you inspected for small pests like redbugs, monti nudis etc....? I seriously doubt iodine/trace elements is the culprit if your doing at least some water changes. Are you getting coraline algae growth at all? You mentioned no polyp extension earlier which also makes me think it could possibly be some type of pest.
 
OP do you dip all your coral? Have you inspected for small pests like redbugs, monti nudis etc....? I seriously doubt iodine/trace elements is the culprit if your doing at least some water changes. Are you getting coraline algae growth at all? You mentioned no polyp extension earlier which also makes me think it could possibly be some type of pest.
Yes i do, i always dip the corals with koral MD, i have inspected and i like going to the tank with a flashlight her and there and i havent seen anything out of the ordinary. Coraline algae is growing all ovet the place, most of my rock is covered with coraline and some of the back wall
 
Thats a nice tank, i had some luck but then everything started going downhill. My buddy doesnt even do water changes or tests and everything he puts in the tank grows like weed. At first i thought he was doing everything wrong now im thinking im doing everything wrong. Its so interesting like you said why some people have issues and others dont

I just think chasing trace elements will be chasing ghosts but that’s me.

Your tank looks large, 100g? And deep? It only has two spotlights over it but I am not familiar with Red Sea led. That would not be enough light for me to feel comfortable. Although that doesn’t explain things going pale but you said your growth was poor and I find corals can survive in low light forever but won’t grow well.

On the right side it seems zoas a stretching. Some naturally stretch but this could so be trying to get more light.

I know most of these corals can be kept under lower par but you may want to consider testing your par.

It’s probably not one thing but a few small things all contributing and making a stressed coral.
 
Oh I checked build thread you have the red sea 90. I had these, 2 over 3ft tank and they are pretty weak. Upgraded to xr15 and getting much better par.
 
OP do you dip all your coral? Have you inspected for small pests like redbugs, monti nudis etc....? I seriously doubt iodine/trace elements is the culprit if your doing at least some water changes. Are you getting coraline algae growth at all? You mentioned no polyp extension earlier which also makes me think it could possibly be some type of pest.
I don’t know if it’s the culprit for a fading monti but low iodine has been an issue for me and according to this guy who is pretty well respected and proven. Plus, OP in this thread tested 0.
You can listen here 15-seconds. 55:35 - 55:50
 
Looking into ICP tests and iodine. It appears they are not accurate for iodine levels? At least according to this article if I am reading this right?

Iodine does deplete quickly but added back with foods. I doubt there is much harm in dosing a little with his coralline growth.

The wavelengths used for iodine detection in a standard ICP are all in the ultraviolet, with 178.215 nm being the normal first choice for iodine because of the strength of the emission at that wavelength. According Varian (the manufacturer of the ICP that I used to test my samples), the detection limit at that wavelength is about 0.6 ppm (far above natural seawater levels). This wavelength also has potential interference from phosphorus that emits near this wavelength (178.222 nm). The second choice line at 182.976 nm has a detection limit of 4.3 ppm. (again, according to Varian). So one can see that ICP using optical emission detection is not typically a good choice for measuring low levels of iodine (as in natural levels around 0.06 ppm), but can work for substantially elevated levels (greater than 0.6 ppm iodine).

 
Last edited:
Looking into ICP tests and iodine. It appears they are not accurate for iodine levels? At least according to this article if I am reading this right?

Iodine does deplete quickly but added back with foods. I doubt there is much harm in dosing a little with his coralline growth.

The wavelengths used for iodine detection in a standard ICP are all in the ultraviolet, with 178.215 nm being the normal first choice for iodine because of the strength of the emission at that wavelength. According Varian (the manufacturer of the ICP that I used to test my samples), the detection limit at that wavelength is about 0.6 ppm (far above natural seawater levels). This wavelength also has potential interference from phosphorus that emits near this wavelength (178.222 nm). The second choice line at 182.976 nm has a detection limit of 4.3 ppm. (again, according to Varian). So one can see that ICP using optical emission detection is not typically a good choice for measuring low levels of iodine (as in natural levels around 0.06 ppm), but can work for substantially elevated levels (greater than 0.6 ppm iodine).

Since there is no great way to test Iodine, I stick with dosing potassium iodide which oxidizes quicker and not straight iodine, which can be very bad if there is too much in the water.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top