CO2 Regulators

[ddrueckh]

I am wondering what makes the Carbondoser the regulator of choice...

As I understand it, the Carbondoser works by opening and closing an electronic solenoid in a fraction of a second to release a single bubble. This gives precise flow in regards to the amount of CO2 being injected into the calcium reactor.

A standard regulator works by using a needle valve to increase or decrease the flow of CO2 into the reactor.

If a standard regulator is paired with an electronic solenoid and pH controller, how is a Carbondoser better? If I set the flow of CO2 a little higher than needed, my solenoid will turn on and off the flow of CO2 to keep the pH stable in my reactor. I would assume that even if the electronic solenoid turns on and off once a minute, because I have the flow too high, that there is less of a chance of the solenoid failing than the Carbondoser solenoid. The Carbondoser solenoid turns on and off much more often...once for every bubble.

What am I missing? What is wrong with a standard regulator paired with an electronic solenoid and pH monitor? Why do people have trouble with this type of setup? Why would you need to fidget with it often...just set the flow of CO2 a little higher than needed and let the solenoid turn it on and off?

Thanks for the insight...I am getting ready to try my hands at a calcium reactor for the first time.

Dave

 

[Bpb]

You’re not missing a thing. You are spot on. It’s a cheap bulk grade brass regulator with a high quality solenoid, retrofitted (in a clean presentable way) to a dimmer switch to open and shut it. Clippard mouse brand solenoid if I’m not mistaken.

Unfortunately most reefers aren’t familiar or aware of commercial grade SS dual stage regulators and high quality needle valves. It’s not because the carbon doser is BETTER, it’s just naivety. Quality regulators aren’t largely marketed (rebranded and distributed) toward hobbyists with the exception of the criminally over priced GLA regulators.

You can build a regulator that would smoke a carbon doser for about $50 cheaper. And it’ll last 100x longer if kept in a clean environment and not dropped.

In short. You’re not missing anything. Unfortunately the majority of the reefing community IS though

 

[ddrueckh]

Thanks for the detailed reply. What normally fails on a regulator? What makes a good regulator vs one that isn’t good? I understand a quality needle valve is important, but what else?

 

[GoVols]

You’re not missing a thing. You are spot on. It’s a cheap bulk grade brass regulator with a high quality solenoid, retrofitted (in a clean presentable way) to a dimmer switch to open and shut it. Clippard mouse brand solenoid if I’m not mistaken.

Unfortunately most reefers aren’t familiar or aware of commercial grade SS dual stage regulators and high quality needle valves. It’s not because the carbon doser is BETTER, it’s just naivety. Quality regulators aren’t largely marketed (rebranded and distributed) toward hobbyists with the exception of the criminally over priced GLA regulators.

You can build a regulator that would smoke a carbon doser for about $50 cheaper. And it’ll last 100x longer if kept in a clean environment and not dropped.

In short. You’re not missing anything. Unfortunately the majority of the reefing community IS though

(lol)
Love my "criminally over priced" Custom, Hand built, SS Dual Stage... GLA!!!

 

[Bpb]

It’s less that they fail, and more that a single stage regulator with cheap needle valve will have pretty widely fluctuating output rate as the tank empties and once the internal pressure reaches the same level as the operating pressure it will dump all the gas at once. Faster than a ph probe will stop it. It’s called end of tank dump. The carbon doser by design will stop that, but it doesn’t change the fact that you’re paying $300 for essentially a cheap brass single stage regulator

 

[Bpb]

(lol)
Love my "criminally over priced" Custom, Hand built, SS Dual Stage... GLA!!!

Hey. I never accused them of being bad. I’d use one with pride. But on the website they’re retailing for $600+ aren’t they? That’s pretty steep

 

[Water Dog]

Thanks for the detailed reply. What normally fails on a regulator? What makes a good regulator vs one that isn’t good? I understand a quality needle valve is important, but what else?

1) a regulator that is dual stage (to avoid the dreaded end of tank dump)
2) a quality solenoid valve (stainless steel burkert)
3). a quality stainless steel low flow metering valve (Swagelok, Hoke, Ideal)
4) and most often overlooked, a quality check valve (Dennerle, Swagelok)

 

[GoVols]

Hey. I never accused them of being bad. I’d use one with pride. But on the website they’re retailing for $600+ aren’t they? That’s pretty steep

Yep,
About $650 with the led chip... $$$

No worries over here...

Great thread and keep it going!!

 

[ddrueckh]

1) a regulator that is dual stage (to avoid the dreaded end of tank dump)
2) a quality solenoid valve (stainless steel burkert)
3). a quality stainless steel low flow metering valve (Swagelok, Hoke, Ideal)
4) and most often overlooked, a quality check valve (Dennerle, Swagelok)

Thank you for that information.

 

[Water Dog]

Here’s some eye candy... two dual stage regulators that I’ve built.

Matheson 3121 nickel plated brass -
- Burkert 0200a stainless steel solenoid
- Swagelok ss-ss4-a-vh stainless steel low flow metering valve
- Swagelok ss-4c-1/3 stainless steel poppet check valve

Victor SGT160B stainless steel -
- Burkert 6011a stainless steel solenoid
- Hoke 1335G4Y stainless steel low flow metering valve
- Wika 233.53 stainless steel glycerin filled gauges

 

[ddrueckh]

Here’s some eye candy... two dual stage regulators that I’ve built.

Matheson 3121 nickel plated brass -
- Burkert 0200a stainless steel solenoid
- Swagelok ss-ss4-a-vh stainless steel low flow metering valve
- Swagelok ss-4c-1/3 stainless steel poppet check valve

Victor SGT160B stainless steel -
- Burkert 6011a stainless steel solenoid
- Hoke 1335G4Y stainless steel low flow metering valve
- Wika 233.53 stainless steel glycerin filled gauges

Do you prefer one over the other?

 

[Water Dog]

I sold the Matheson when I thought I was going to be going with ATI Essentials. Then while helping a fellow reefer with a regulator build over on RC, I got the itch to build another one and I started to regret selling my Matheson. So I built the Victor.

Of the two I built, I definitely prefer the Victor because the regulator is stainless steel. However for our purposes, brass or nickel plated brass regulators are fine, though to protect against corrosion, they would be better served being placed outside of a tank stand that also houses a sump. The post body (cga320 nut & nipple, elbow & tube fittings, solenoid and metering valve) on both regulators are top notch lab grade stainless steel parts. I have no preference between the two different post bodies that I put together as both are top of the line.

 

[Bpb]

they would be better served being placed outside of a tank stand that also houses a sump.

+1 I have an all brass air products regulator I’m running on my CARX and the amount of corrosion on it is scary just simply just being near the sump and never having had water spilled on it.

 

[Water Dog]

+1 I have an all brass air products regulator I’m running on my CARX and the amount of corrosion on it is scary just simply just being near the sump and never having had water spilled on it.

I’m actually curious, is it corrosion or just oxidation and discoloration of the surface finish? I wonder if you polished it up with some Brasso, if it would clean right up again. I’ve seen some pretty ratty looking, relatively new CarbonDoser regulators that have been left near sumps as well. That’s why when I embarked on my second regulator build, I was determined to find a stainless dual stage regulator, though I must admit, I did go a little overboard with bling by adding the stainless steel Wika gauges.

 

[Bpb]

I’m actually curious, is it corrosion or just oxidation and discoloration of the surface finish? I wonder if you polished it up with some Brasso, if it would clean right up? I’ve seen some pretty ratty looking, relatively new CarbonDoser regulators that have been left near sumps as well. That’s why when I embarked on my second regulator build, I was determined to find a stainless dual stage regulator, though I must admit, I did go a little overboard with bling by adding the stainless steel Wika gauges.

Likely just oxidation. Green spots all over the brass

 

[mitch91175]

Trying to source the parts to build myself a regulator. Anyone have links to components that will suit my needs? Would love to have SS since mine will have to be in my sump area.

 

[Water Dog]

Trying to source the parts to build myself a regulator. Anyone have links to components that will suit my needs? Would love to have SS since mine will have to be in my sump area.

PM sent.

 

[Rob Tillery]

water dog...Trying to source the parts to build myself a Victor regulator.

 

[Water Dog]

Replied to your PM

 

[enb141]

Guys is just me or GLA either have reduced its prices for the Dual Stage Regulators or those ones are not anymore the ones you mention earlier at ~$600, the GLA PRO-DS Aquarium CO2 Regulator costs about $300.00.

I'm also thinking about building mine, maybe a single stage but using a clippard like solenoid, what you think guys?