CO2 Scrubber Testing

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Yes I did tape over the holes. To me "recirculating" implies a closed system. Works great for me. I am getting 6-8 weeks out the media and picked up +- .25 on pH. I have not measured household CO2 to know what kind of concentration I am working against.

Skimmate production remains unaffected.

@Rostato is there some risk in doing so that I am overlooking?


That was my thought as well. It seems with (at least the reef octopus) all the holes in the top it would be sucking in a lot of fresh air, probably way more than recirculated air. My only concern would be buildup of methane gas or something.

I'm getting 1 week of life out of my co2 media with a "recirculating" design which doesn't seem to be the average from other posters.
 
That was my thought as well. It seems with (at least the reef octopus) all the holes in the top it would be sucking in a lot of fresh air, probably way more than recirculated air. My only concern would be buildup of methane gas or something.

I'm getting 1 week of life out of my co2 media with a "recirculating" design which doesn't seem to be the average from other posters.

Hmmm. I'll think on that.
(Note to self: don't smoke while dumping skim cup)

I love my undersized Reef Octo. Thing pulls like a champ.

Holy cow, you are only getting a week from your media. That is kinda rough. Before recirc I was around 2-3 weeks IIRC.

I should point out, I don't really color check the media that much, I just check my pH lows overnight on occasion and when I see them dropping below 8 I change it out.
 
What media is everyone using, I don’t seem to get more than a week out of mine too, so maybe it’s a difference in media?

I'm using the BRS stuff right now, got the 5g bucket from the vet site, will try it when the BRS stuff runs out.
 
Yeah I’d be concerned about methane build up with all the holes covered. Plus I’d rather have some skimmate overflowback into the tank if my skimmer goes nuts. I don’t want all of it to immediately go into my scrubber.

Im getting 5-6 weeks out of my media and I see ph levels hit 8.6 some days.

I use the stuff from the medical site.
 
 
A recirculating setup does run the risk of liquifying the media and dumping it into your sump causing an ALK spike.

I put this optical sensor in my skimmer after a near accident. Thankfully my return pumps were shut at the time. Just had to pump out the sump.

It does false alarm & shut down the skimmer every couple of weeks or so, but worth it in my view.

 
I have an optical sensor in my catch can so if water gets sucked into the can before it can get to the soda lime a ball valve will trigger and the skimmer will start drawing from fresh air instead of through the soda lime.
 
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Just wanted to say thanks for all the work! Im was planning on pulling air from the outside + kalk to up the PH, but after these results i might try 2 part + circ scrubber. Just need to find a local supplier as it seems a bit harder to find the media for a reasonable price. We probably have 6 reefers in the country using this method :rolleyes:
 
I just hooked up the scrubber to my Nyos 160 skimmer. I have the in going to the cup and the out goes to a tee connection which has a line going from the outside and then to the skimmer. Would it be better to leave out the outside line and just have the scrubber go directly to the skimmer? I’m using 1/2” lines.
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So, I haven't seen anyone mention anything about skimmer levels. When the air is going through the scrubber, you will need to adjust the water outlet accordingly to get the right level of water in the skimmer. However, what happens when the scrubber is bypassed if you are using a solenoid? Won't the overall air flow be different and therefore the skimmer production be less or more? How do you regulate skimmer height?
Tom
 
No real need to talk about it. Just ensure your skimmer gets the same amount of air from both ports. Simple.
 
I’m not sure why there is a concern over solenoids, as this is probably a lack of understanding how they function. These multi-position solenoids are used in many industries daily. If there was a concern over the length of time a coil can remain energized, then this would be part of the product specifications.

As a coil is energized there is an “in rush” of current. First your power supply must be able to handle the max wattage as this will be your in rush. The in rush is what generates the heat that can lead to coil failure. Manufacturers will also list “maximum cycles”. Many times this is listed as “x per second”. If you over cycle a coil, then the housing will not have enough time to dissipate the heat generated by the coil. Many solenoids are rated at over 100,000 cycles.

For this application I wouldn’t hesitate to use a 2 way 3 position solenoid. The duty cycle will never reach a point that the heat generated from cycling the coil should prematurely damage the coil.

The EB832 24vdc should be able to deliver the less than 5watts of in rush current needed from various manufacturers for this size valve.

Any concern for safety using this AC solenoid near salt water in my RSR 350? It will be secured to the top of the chamber but pretty much everything in there is DC with the outlets in the other cabinet. There is a DC version but not sure what PS I'd need with that one.

 
Actually scratch that, I have the AC one and just ran it for like 20 mins, the thing is too hot to touch. No way Im putting this in my cabinet.

I guess Ill have to get one of those ball valve ones. What I dont understand is how apex controlls them. Does it just turn on power to make it open and remove power to revers? Doesnt it need power to turn the valve?
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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