Complete loss // Cursed Tank

djbetterly · Jun 1, 2018

Was out of the country, some sort of ATO issue happened and I lost everything. Had something similar happened about a year ago so I setup a new ATO system with loss of extra safeguards, notifications, float valves etc. for some reason everything failed me.

To vent...this tank has been nothing but a curse since day 1, so many issues. Considering buying a new tank. I can’t afford a new Red Sea so I want to look into getting a bare glass tank that I build out myself. Any suggestions for tanks whether pre drilled, bare or with overflow?

Flippers4pups · Jun 1, 2018

djbetterly said:
Was out of the country, some sort of ATO issue happened and I lost everything. Had something similar happened about a year ago so I setup a new ATO system with loss of extra safeguards, notifications, float valves etc. for some reason everything failed me.

To vent...this tank has been nothing but a curse since day 1, so many issues. Considering buying a new tank. I can’t afford a new Red Sea so I want to look into getting a bare glass tank that I build out myself. Any suggestions for tanks whether pre drilled, bare or with overflow?

Do you mind talking about what happened with the ATO. How was it set up?

ArowanaLover1902 · Jun 1, 2018

My suggestion would be to buy your tank and build your sump custom, it'll help keep price down as well as make the tank easier to manage, you'll have a better understanding of how it works.

TexasTodd · Jun 1, 2018

I like constant drip, or hourly calibrated dosing for ATO. The level controlled seem to be less reliable.
Sorry for your loss!

djbetterly · Jun 1, 2018

ArowanaLover1902 said:
My suggestion would be to buy your tank and build your sump custom, it'll help keep price down as well as make the tank easier to manage, you'll have a better understanding of how it works.

I have a nice sump already, I just need the tank.

djbetterly · Jun 1, 2018

Flippers4pups said:
Do you mind talking about what happened with the ATO. How was it set up?

I use an avast marine auto top off unit hooked into the BOB to my Apex. Additionally I have two different float sensors in two different places in the sump. I just got home and looked around a bit, something definitely happened in the sump area. I'm starting to wonder if there isn't a leak somewhere in the sump, in which case my only hope would have been an error kicked by the conductivity probe. Maybe I have some of the coding set wrong in the apex so the low salinity didn't get caught....not sure yet. Will start to investigate tomorrow.

brandon429 · Jun 1, 2018

you know ive followed your tank for two years now yep

so sorry to hear of that

respects for the instant jump back in we know you're a long hauler

its too corny to say the when door closes/one opens cliché but you know what im thinking about algae round 2

really though, in hindsight, sandbed or no sandbed, aquascape access (modularity if possible) you know I had to point them out. I never got the closure my conscience needed on your round 1. whats the preemptive nuclear algae game plan on this bad boy which will eclipse the first go in every way./
B

djbetterly · Jun 2, 2018

brandon429 said:
you know ive followed your tank for two years now yep

so sorry to hear of that

respects for the instant jump back in we know you're a long hauler

its too corny to say the when door closes/one opens cliché but you know what im thinking about algae round 2

really though, in hindsight, sandbed or no sandbed, aquascape access (modularity if possible) you know I had to point them out. I never got the closure my conscience needed on your round 1. whats the preemptive nuclear algae game plan on this bad boy which will eclipse the first go in every way./
B

I apologize for not giving you closure regarding the algae. Once I did a few peroxide treatments I started dosing vinegar and I had little to know issues after that.

Lots to think about for round two. Thankfully I’m very busy with work right now so it’s going to take me a while to get back up and running...hence the thought of replacing just the tank.

mtraylor · Jun 2, 2018

Well I have a DYI Auto Top off system that has been working for many years with no issues. I run my RO/DI unit directly to my sump. So I have no container to store water nor a pump involved. I have an industrial Solenoid normally closed hooked up to my RO/DI that is controlled by my APEX. I have 2 float valves in the sump. The first is used to turn on the solenoid on and off to maintain water in sump. The second solenoid is in the sump up higher as a backup. If its engaged it also controls water level and will email me to tell me that the first has failed and there is an issue. I also have leak detector hooked up to the apex so if any water issues from spills, I'm alerted. My whole sump is sitting in a 2" PVC liner that way any water leaks are pooled in the liner and are caught by the leak detector. Also have one in the floor.

I have had no issues with this design. The only down fall I have is that I go through Resin in the RO/DI container at a faster rate than most due to creep. I don't care about that. Its just apart of the hobby. Anyway. Sorry for you loss, you may want to re-evaluate your setup before moving forward. That way you don't have to go through that again.

Good luck.

djbetterly · Jun 2, 2018

mtraylor said:
Well I have a DYI Auto Top off system that has been working for many years with no issues. I run my RO/DI unit directly to my sump. So I have no container to store water nor a pump involved. I have an industrial Solenoid normally closed hooked up to my RO/DI that is controlled by my APEX. I have 2 float valves in the sump. The first is used to turn on the solenoid on and off to maintain water in sump. The second solenoid is in the sump up higher as a backup. If its engaged it also controls water level and will email me to tell me that the first has failed and there is an issue. I also have leak detector hooked up to the apex so if any water issues from spills, I'm alerted. My whole sump is sitting in a 2" PVC liner that way any water leaks are pooled in the liner and are caught by the leak detector. Also have one in the floor.

I have had no issues with this design. The only down fall I have is that I go through Resin in the RO/DI container at a faster rate than most due to creep. I don't care about that. Its just apart of the hobby. Anyway. Sorry for you loss, you may want to re-evaluate your setup before moving forward. That way you don't have to go through that again.

Good luck.

My ATO is setup very similar to yours, it goes direct from RODI into sump with a low sensor and high sensor and an additional high sensor in the skim chamber.

Something happened, just not sure what yet.

mtraylor · Jun 2, 2018

OH ok. What is your programming on the 2nd and 3rd Sensors. I can compare to mine I you like. An easy way to see if your programming logic is working right is to fully engage your first sensor as if water has submerged it. Then on your second sensor see what happens when you engage it. Float up position. Just tape it in the up position with some painters tape or something so you don't have to sit there and hold it. Make sure you make that float email you if its engaged. Telling you that the first has failed. Same for your third. Also make sure your solenoid for ATO is turned off if the second or third one is engaged. That will be simple to observe. Sounds like the logic on this may be in reverse for your second and third float switches.

djbetterly · Jun 2, 2018

Another question, I have a lot of dead zoo's, what is a safe way to remove those? I know the palytoxin can still exist even after they are dead.

mtraylor · Jun 2, 2018

I have never had a problem with that type of stuff, but i'm getting older and more careful these days. You may want to drain the aquarium with a pump and let most water out and do huge water change before you put your arm in there. You can also get some of those gloves that go to the arm pit.

djbetterly · Jun 5, 2018

mtraylor said:
OH ok. What is your programming on the 2nd and 3rd Sensors. I can compare to mine I you like. An easy way to see if your programming logic is working right is to fully engage your first sensor as if water has submerged it. Then on your second sensor see what happens when you engage it. Float up position. Just tape it in the up position with some painters tape or something so you don't have to sit there and hold it. Make sure you make that float email you if its engaged. Telling you that the first has failed. Same for your third. Also make sure your solenoid for ATO is turned off if the second or third one is engaged. That will be simple to observe. Sounds like the logic on this may be in reverse for your second and third float switches.

Can you send me a link to the solenoids you use?

mtraylor · Jun 5, 2018

Its been so many years ago over 10 when I bought it. It was expensive compared to the others. Like around $70 from what I remember. I bought 3 other solenoids back then that I still have that were fairly cheap, that are still in the box. These were little ones around $15 to $20. I figured I would buy a few different brands and see how it goes. The $70 one is about the size of an orange. Its wrapped in the back of my aquarium so I dont have easy access to it. I will see if I can find some old pic. Its a bit loud when it comes on and off. That is the only drawback of it. Otherwise its a tank. Size wise as well.