Concerned - what is this?

Tiffany'sTank · Mar 6, 2016

This is starting to overtake my tank....it's a 10 month old system and I just can not seem to keep green algea and red algea out (I reduced light, and restrict feeding, 50% change once per month) and I am struggling....and now this has shown up. Does anyone know what this it and how I should move forward? Thank you.

kschweer · Mar 6, 2016

Looks like red dictyota macro algae. I would say manual removal and low nutrients would be best. Can the rock be removed? If so remove it, pull off all of it that you can, treat the area with some hydrogen peroxide and scrub it with a toothbrush or similar clean brush. Best of luck!

Tiffany'sTank · Mar 6, 2016

With the homework I have done, that's what I think it is too. This is my first tank and I have no one to help me out here, so thought I should ask first and get some feedback before I did anything. Thank you.

redfishbluefish · Mar 6, 2016

I don't do well with pictures, but is it a blade like aglae? If so, my first guess would be Cryptonemia. Google pictures of that and see if your stuff looks like that.

redfishbluefish · Mar 6, 2016

Oops, I was typing while Kevin and you responded.....red dictyota is a possibility as well.....Google that too.

Doob · Mar 6, 2016

Those are very large water changes. If you're not using ro/di water it could be a factor. Are you having nitrate problems also? If not, maybe you should cut back to 25%, I do 10-15% biweekly and I have never had a massive algae bloom, barely any algae at all actually.

Tiffany'sTank · Mar 6, 2016

I am having a nitrate problem but for the life of me, I don't know why. I have plenty of snails and crabs, and shrimp, and I'm not over feeding....my light is on a 6hr timer. I've had a nitrate problem right off the bat. I'm changing it with already prepared tank water from a reef store.

RobinsonReef · Mar 6, 2016

Try testing the pre prepared reef water, not to say don't trust your LFS but I've found sometimes the LFS water caused problems. I now make my own rodi at home and mix it myself.

On another note. What size tank is it? How heavy is your bio load? Skimmer? Running any filtration media?

cloak · Mar 6, 2016

Fauchea sp? The remedy for pretty much all of the nuisance algae's out there are the same though. GL.

http://www.saltcorner.com/AquariumLibrary/browsespecies.php?CritterID=3744

Maritimer · Mar 6, 2016

I had high nitrates for several months after setting up my tank. Then, shortly after having to move all the fish to QT and "go fallow", the nitrates fell off a cliff. (One might assume it's because I'm not feeding the DT, but I still do - just about half of the day's ration goes to DT and half to the fish in QT. The shrimp, CUC, corals and 'nems appreciate the gesture, I'm sure!) You may find the same, as the denitrifying bacteria in your rock and sand suddenly "catch up" to your bioload.

Haven't been lucky enough to have any of these cool red algaes show up, but have plenty of diatoms, cyano, GHA and even Ulva to go 'round!

My other recommendation for controlling the algae would be to add something that eats them. Blennies? Angels? Tangs? Urchins? Snails & limpets? Sea hares & lettuce slugs? (My sea hare got harrassed to death by my cleaner shrimp.

)

~Bruce

RobinsonReef · Mar 6, 2016

While adding animals to eat the algae can help, you might only be adding to the problem. If your bio load is to high for your tank to handle then adding more things to eat algae is not a good answer. If it eats...it poops. You really should find the source/problem for the high nitrates and start with that. I had a GHA problem in my 29 because of high nitrates and when I adjusted filtration and dosing to compensate for a high bioload, nitrates fell, and in about a month all the GHA died on its own because it had nothing to feed on anymore. Same goes with most other nusiance algaes. They thrive in high nitrate tanks because its what they use to grow along with light. Stabilize water parameters and the problem will take care of itself. Be careful with lots of massive water changes too, you could be causing giant swings in parameters by doing that which can really stress your live stock out.

Tiffany'sTank · Mar 6, 2016

Had a sea hare, it came up dead on day 4, so I purchased another, and it was dead the very next day. Both bodies were emitting a blue haze out of their bodies....blue blood? I'm assuming my emerald crabs don't like the hares. I'll need to purchase some blennies and tangs.
It's a 55 gallon tank and I have a filtration until Sat up capable of doing 100 gallons. No skimmer, and I wonder maybe that's where I took the wrong turn? With a small tank I was told I didn't need a skimmer.
How do I find out my bio load?

RobinsonReef · Mar 6, 2016

Whether or not you use their products or this method this video is fantastic to explain what I'm talking about.

RobinsonReef · Mar 6, 2016

Whoever told you a 55 doesn't need a skimmer was very wrong. My 29 reef has a skimmer and I get loads of gunk out of it. You really do need a skimmer. Are you running carbon in the sump? I would start doing 10% changes weekly. Feed as light as you can without starving live stock. Once again that video is extremely informative to explain why and how algae grows and why we need some types of algae.

--EDIT-- I also would not add anymore live stock till nitrate is under control. Adding more fish only increases waste which will turn into nitrate and make the problem worse.

RobinsonReef · Mar 6, 2016

Tiffany'sTank said:
Had a sea hare, it came up dead on day 4, so I purchased another, and it was dead the very next day. Both bodies were emitting a blue haze out of their bodies....blue blood? I'm assuming my emerald crabs don't like the hares. I'll need to purchase some blennies and tangs.
It's a 55 gallon tank and I have a filtration until Sat up capable of doing 100 gallons. No skimmer, and I wonder maybe that's where I took the wrong turn? With a small tank I was told I didn't need a skimmer.
How do I find out my bio load?

Your high nitrate is a good sign of your bioload. The high nitrate means your tank can't keep up in reducing nitrate naturally with beneficial bacteria. Protein skimmer will help a lot in helping your tank keep up by skimming out waste proteins in your water. I would invest in a skimmer for the sump and start there. Get it dialed in and skimming well. Then see where you stand with the current live stock and your nitrate issue. I would for now also start running carbon in your sump to help. Eventually with skimming properly, water changes and dosing a carbon source you can ditch the carbon sock (sounds redundant I know), or at least I am using this method successfully in my 29 reef and have great growth with a high bioload for such a small tank. I urge you to not add anymore new livestock though. HIGH nitrates will kill your animals especially the more sensitive ones. Could by why you can't keep a sea hare alive. Dying things also produce more waste causing nitrate spikes. Let the tank settle out, start doing 10% a week and on your water change day use a toothbrush to scrub off/out as much algae as you can and invest in a good skimmer. Also feel free to PM me, I am more than glad to help. This is a really fun hobby and I hate to see new people scared off by issues they can control easily with good husbandry and the right equipment.

ReeferReefer · Mar 8, 2016

I'd use a skimmer and refugium. A GFO reactor can help keep Phosphates low too.

human · Mar 8, 2016

Tiffany'sTank said:
Had a sea hare, it came up dead on day 4, so I purchased another, and it was dead the very next day. Both bodies were emitting a blue haze out of their bodies....blue blood? I'm assuming my emerald crabs don't like the hares. I'll need to purchase some blennies and tangs.
It's a 55 gallon tank and I have a filtration until Sat up capable of doing 100 gallons. No skimmer, and I wonder maybe that's where I took the wrong turn? With a small tank I was told I didn't need a skimmer.
How do I find out my bio load?

The haze you saw leaving its body is a toxin sea hares release when they're stressed or dying. I would avoid getting anymore Sea hares until your water quality improves, they're sensitive to poor water quality, that's most likely why your's didn't last very long.