Confirm ID and treatment options. Please please help.

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clifg

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Been battling this for a while. Started off as just GHA then went to Dinos (little bubbles) now I think it's a combo of those two and Cyano? Just did a 15% water change last night and scrubbed , scrubbed, scrubbed, and it seems like the strands just come back. Lighting is at 8 hours right now. Fish and inverts seem to be doing well. Eating fine.

Seems like my Duncan and BTAs aren't as full as they used to be. Some corals are getting completely covered in strands and dying. Stopped dosing Nopox about three days ago (4ml/week) because I heard it might contribute to cyano.

I run a canister filter for chemical filtration, currently running - Purigen, Chemi-Pure Blue, PhosBan, & SeaChem Renew. All was replaced yesterday during WC. Refugium for bio filtration - Macros, Mangroves, SeaChem Matrix, Crushed Coral, Miracle Mud. Skimmer is purposely underpowered to retain pods and some nutrients.

Parameters:

Salt - 35.3
ORP - 300 (although the sensor & apex are about a week old only)
PH - 7.85 via apex (pretty sure the calibration is off) somewhere around 8.15 via salifert
Tmp 77
Alk - 9.2
CA - 461
MG 1370
phosphate - .03 hanna
ammonia - und
no2 - und
nitrate - und - nyos - last reading was 1ppm

Livestock-

Two Maroon Clowns
1 Spelndid dotty
1 orange goby
1 sailfin blenny
2 banggai cardinals
2 scarlet skunks
2 chalk bass
1 anemone shrimp
1 pistol shrimp
snails & crabs

Please helllllppp me!
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Do the dino test by filtering some tank water and algae through a coffee filter. Get your nitrates and phosphates up so other algae can out compete.

I haven't heard of this test but since taking those pictures bubbles have shown up everywhere on the algae so I'm pretty sure it is dinos. What do you recommend for getting those up? I have brightwell microbacter, food, or miratip.

Thanks!

Edit: Also is the algae ticking my nems and duncan off? I've scrubbed around them and they don't seem to want to come back out.
 
Use the search function to find the main dino thread. Treatment plans generally depend on the type of dinos (blackouts vs uv ect). To raise nitrates and phosphates just feed heavier. I use a turkey baster to blow dinos off.

Fixing dinos is a long term issue.
 
Couple more pictures, you can see most of my coral looks at least decent except the ones getting eaten up by algae.
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Use the search function to find the main dino thread. Treatment plans generally depend on the type of dinos (blackouts vs uv ect). To raise nitrates and phosphates just feed heavier. I use a turkey baster to blow dinos off.

Fixing dinos is a long term issue.

Thanks will do. Should I hold off on doing another WC that I had planned today?
 
Best microscope I could get on short notice. Anyone?

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Unfortunately you will need more magnification. Key indicators would be the shape, size and movement patterns. Post up on your local reefing club forum and see if anyone has a microscope.
 
Combo of both and I would first verify your phosphate level and are you using RO water or tap water from faucet?
Remove as much as you can by hand and then do the following:

Prepare for a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights and work your white lights up slowly
 
Last edited:
Dose no3, problem sorted
 

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