Constant Green Water

[CCK_8814]

Hey guys, I have one tank that I cannot get the water to get back to clear in. The tank was fine for months, then had a bubble tip die which caused a chain reaction and ended up losing upwards on 100 nems. A few days after that the water began to develop a green tinge and ever since I have been unable to get or keep the water clear. I have added 2 UV sterilizers both with feed pumps in display to try and help but that doesn't seem to be working. Flow is turned down to just above a trickle on them. Also running carbon and GFO. Lighting is Radion XR30 Pros + Blue+ T5's. If I do a large water change the water will clear slightly but by the next morning the green is back. I removed all rocks, dipped in peroxide and that did not seem to help either. My next step is to replace the rocks one by one. I have already replaced one. Going on just over a month with the green water issue. I am also using API Algaefix Marine & Vibrant. Tank is a 40B with 20L sump. Any tips or tricks are appreciated.

 

[Ruben's Reef]

Are you using RODI water? What's your light schedule? What are your tank parameters? Maybe other reefers will give you some ideas.

 

[CCK_8814]

Are you using RODI water? What's your light schedule? What are your tank parameters? Maybe other reefers will give you some ideas.

Yes using RODI. Same RODI and Saltwater come from same storage barrels for this tank as well as my 5 other tanks that all have no issues. Light schedule is on at 1:30 off at 11 for radions, on at 5 off at 9 for T5's. Alk 9, cal 440, pH 8.0, mag 1370, NO3 5, PO4 0.05.

 

[Bret Brinkmann]

I suspect there maybe an issue with your UV setup. What size tank are they rated for? What is the flow rate of the pumps feeding them?

 

[CCK_8814]

I suspect there maybe an issue with your UV setup. What size tank are they rated for? What is the flow rate of the pumps feeding them?

One is the AquaUV 2000+ which is 15W, the second is a 9W. Flow rate on both is a slow steady stream just above a trickle.

 

[Bret Brinkmann]

One is the AquaUV 2000+ which is 15W, the second is a 9W. Flow rate on both is a slow steady stream just above a trickle.

Just the 15W alone is enough UV for your 40g tank. I believe the issue is that you need more flow through it. Shoot for at least 1 times tank volume per hour. No more than 12 times tank volume. If you have a trickle, then you aren't killing them faster than they can reproduce. The UV can dose enough at those flow rates so don't be scared to turn up the flow or it will never work. Let us know if that fixes it.

 

[LiveWire]

I think i would just use the Vibrant alone and not add the API Algaefix on top of it. Do you have any corals in the system at all alive? If not maybe a lights out period for awhile would help also.

 

[Lasse]

Just the 15W alone is enough UV for your 40g tank. I believe the issue is that you need more flow through it. Shoot for at least 1 times tank volume per hour. No more than 12 times tank volume. If you have a trickle, then you aren't killing them faster than they can reproduce. The UV can dose enough at those flow rates so don't be scared to turn up the flow or it will never work. Let us know if that fixes it.

+ 100

They must be situated at the pressure side and at least as much flow that there will be no air mixed with the water. If you black the system (if possible - not total but just switch of the lights) for a couple of days -(blacking + UVC) it will lower the biomass, hence help the UVC. But 15 + 9 W should be enough for algae defeat on their own.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Flippers4pups]

+ 100

They must be situated at the pressure side and at least as much flow that there will be no air mixed with the water. If you black the system (if possible - not total but just switch of the lights) for a couple of days -(blacking + UVC) it will lower the biomass, hence help the UVC. But 15 + 9 W should be enough for algae defeat on their own.

Sincerely Lasse

Agreed^.

 

[GainesvilleReef]

Some of these biological processes require phosphate. I have heard of phosphate block from a lack of phosphate. I had something similar on a nano tank and went to carbon only and it cleared up.

 

[CCK_8814]

I originally had the flow higher going through them and had no affect. I was then advised to slow flow to increase contact time with the UV’s. Moved most of the coral to other tanks but a few stragglers remain. Over the last week the water clarity has definitely improved but still ever so slight green tint.

 

[Lasse]

IMO it looks like your UVC does not work the way they should. How old is the bulbs. Normally it is wise to change once a half year. But if you black the system out for a couple of days they will not grow in biomass and will be easier for the UVC to knock them out.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Zero1091]

I had a similar issue years back, water was completely green for an unknown reason. Nothing died like in this situation but I had fish and coral in it, medium stocked tank.

Did a three day blackout period, even wrapped black cut up trash bags to make sure daylight didn't go through. Water went back to crystal clear.

 

[CCK_8814]

IMO it looks like your UVC does not work the way they should. How old is the bulbs. Normally it is wise to change once a half year. But if you black the system out for a couple of days they will not grow in biomass and will be easier for the UVC to knock them out.

Sincerely Lasse

Both bulbs in both UV’s are brand new, replaced/installed when added to tank just about 1 month ago.

 

[Flippers4pups]

A UV with proper water flow should easily get rid of any algae blooms or bacterial blooms.

I have a 15watt Aqua UV on my 180 gallon system. It keeps my water crystal clear.

 

[Bret Brinkmann]

I originally had the flow higher going through them and had no affect. I was then advised to slow flow to increase contact time with the UV’s. Moved most of the coral to other tanks but a few stragglers remain. Over the last week the water clarity has definitely improved but still ever so slight green tint.

What was the flow rate when the flow was higher? There is a range that works, but too high or too low will not work.

I have a 15watt Aqua UV on my 180 gallon system. It keeps my water crystal clear.

15W for 180gal seems very under sized. Manufacturers recommend in the 1W per every 3gal range. Has that setup ever beat back a bloom or was it added as preventive?

 

[Flippers4pups]

What was the flow rate when the flow was higher? There is a range that works, but too high or too low will not work.



15W for 180gal seems very under sized. Manufacturers recommend in the 1W per every 3gal range. Has that setup ever beat back a bloom or was it added as preventive?

Just had a bacterial bloom that lasted several weeks. It was getting very bad. The UV I had, a Danner pondmaster 15 watt that had a bad ballast and the cost to replace it was pretty expensive compared to a new one. That's why I bought the Aqua uv. Added the UV a couple weeks ago. The next day after I added it, the bacterial bloom was gone.

I've always used a low watt UV only for water clarity.

 

[CCK_8814]

What was the flow rate when the flow was higher? There is a range that works, but too high or too low will not work.



15W for 180gal seems very under sized. Manufacturers recommend in the 1W per every 3gal range. Has that setup ever beat back a bloom or was it added as preventive?

Don’t have a way to measure exact flow rate. Pumps were a 325gph on the 15W and a MJ600 on the 9. 3/4 max on the 15 & full on the 9.

 

[Flippers4pups]

15W for 180gal seems very under sized. Manufacturers recommend in the 1W per every 3gal range. Has that setup ever beat back a bloom or was it added as preventive?
[/QUOTE]

Aqua UV specs.

 

[vetteguy53081]

bY ANY CHANCE , IS YOUR TANK AT OR NEAR A WINDOW??