Continued Issues with Cycling

[ecas12]

I made a post a last week regarding some cycling questions but I think I keep running into issues. Exactly one week ago I tested my ammonia using a Hanna digital checker and got a reading of 1.82 ppm. Since then, my ammonia has dropped significantly (it's now between .2-.3 ppm), but I have been having some weird things happen. First, I tested every other day to see when my ammonia readings would hit 0. However, I have had multiple instances where when I test ammonia, the value goes up from my previous test. For instance, on 9/7 I tested for ammonia and got .23 ppm, and today, my reading was .38 ppm (these are all being done in the Hanna digital checker, and I use the saltwater API test as a sanity check). On top of that, I still have high nitrites (this one I had to test with Saltwater API so it may not be as accurate but it is closer to the maximum value than 0). It doesn't seem like the cycle is fully stalled, but it sure is taking a long time. For reference, I used 100 gal worth of Fritz Turbo Start 900 along with Fritz Fishless Fuel (i.e. pure ammonia). To add another layer of confusion to my scenario, I also have a Seachem Ammonia monitor in my tank, and it is giving me the lowest reading possible (i.e., a "safe" level of ammonia which according to the monitor is around .02 ppm). Have I run into a potential problem here? Or am I just being impatient?

 

[Reefahholic]

@sixty_reefer

 

[HankstankXXL750 Verified Sponsor]

How long has this been set up?

 

[reef_1]

Its normal to have nitrites topping days after ammonia is going down.

I would keep measuring all values daily, including nitrates.

If nitrates are not going up and nitritre is stuck for 3-4 days, then I would read the fritz turbo start FAQ on their webpage, they have a section there about stalling at high nitrites due to no phosphate in water.

 

[brandon429]

This cycle is done fully. There isn't a problem here.

How to unstick any seemingly stuck cycle

Updated Cycling Science in Action This is a testless reef tank cycling thread, the only one from any board. If you ever had trouble with reef tank cycling in the past, you won't any longer after working some jobs with us. chances are you are using/about to use a method of reef tank cycling...

www.reef2reef.com

You used 1 day cycling bac, it's been more than one day since then you're done

Worry and plan about fish disease, not cycling, anything your ammonia reads now doesn't matter, we show for 38 pages.

 

[PigDaddyF15E]

IMHO you are always going to get some variations to the reading due to so many variables. I'm looking for "trend" information. some up/down...don't worry. As has been pointed out...there really isn't any way to 'stall' it or "screw it up". bacteria are going to do their thing...it just takes as long as it takes

The thing you have to remember with any measurement test is the "accuracy". The Hanna ammonia accuracy is pretty small number 0.05% IIRC. The other thing is that I'm not a scientist. I'm sure I'm not measuring the exact amount into the cuvette every time. We are all probably using our eyeballs and "judgement'. I'm no expert...but I'm assuming that a little too much or not enough water is going to effect the outcome of the test.

 

[Garf]

I made a post a last week regarding some cycling questions but I think I keep running into issues. Exactly one week ago I tested my ammonia using a Hanna digital checker and got a reading of 1.82 ppm. Since then, my ammonia has dropped significantly (it's now between .2-.3 ppm), but I have been having some weird things happen. First, I tested every other day to see when my ammonia readings would hit 0. However, I have had multiple instances where when I test ammonia, the value goes up from my previous test. For instance, on 9/7 I tested for ammonia and got .23 ppm, and today, my reading was .38 ppm (these are all being done in the Hanna digital checker, and I use the saltwater API test as a sanity check). On top of that, I still have high nitrites (this one I had to test with Saltwater API so it may not be as accurate but it is closer to the maximum value than 0). It doesn't seem like the cycle is fully stalled, but it sure is taking a long time. For reference, I used 100 gal worth of Fritz Turbo Start 900 along with Fritz Fishless Fuel (i.e. pure ammonia). To add another layer of confusion to my scenario, I also have a Seachem Ammonia monitor in my tank, and it is giving me the lowest reading possible (i.e., a "safe" level of ammonia which according to the monitor is around .02 ppm). Have I run into a potential problem here? Or am I just being impatient?

I’m sure there’s no problem but can you measure pH? Then you could calculate if the Total ammonia checker lines up with the free ammonia badge, just for peace of mind.

 

[brandon429]

Garf

Curious if you would accept a stated ph level as accurate

Or nitrate, or phosphate etc

Isn't ph just about impossible to know accurately, for that calculation, unless there are very accurate lab probe setups? Nobody's color tube kit is anything but a ballpark right?

 

[Garf]

Garf

Curious if you would accept a stated ph level as accurate

Or nitrate, or phosphate etc

Isn't ph just about impossible to know accurately, for that calculation, unless there are very accurate lab probe setups? Nobody's color tube kit is anything but a ballpark right?

It hasn’t got to be accurate but a 7.7ph say, does make a difference to a 8.4pH reading. That is a fair swing, with even the cheapest of kits, meters. Anything around 8 to 8.3 suggests the total ammonia and free ammonia are roughly in agreement to the OPs observations.

 

[sixty_reefer]

I would look at phosphates also and ensure that there is no phosphates absorbing media in the system.

 

[ecas12]

Just to follow up with people's requests, here are the readings from some tests I did today.

(a) Nitrite (Red Sea): 1 ppm < (I don't have a high range nitrite checker)
(b) pH (API): 8.0-8.2
(c) Phosphate (Hanna): .02-.07 ppm (I ran the test twice)
(d) Ammonia (API) - 0.25-.5 ppm
(e) Ammonia (Hanna) - .42 ppm

My nitrates maxed out awhile ago and I don't have a test that measures greater than 75 ppm.

After reading the Fritz Turbo Start FAQs, turns out I do need a decent level of phosphates to feed the bacteria (which I didn't know about). If I assume the cycle is finished, I can move my fish that have been quarantining over to my main tank and feeding them will provide a rise in phosphate levels.

It seems like from the comments, I am clear to just go ahead and do a water change. Is that a safe conclusion? The thing I was primarily concerned about was a lack of ammonia zeroing out, especially after this long (I have had the tank running with bacteria for 22 days, and stopped dosing ammonia a week ago).

 

[ecas12]

I would look at phosphates also and ensure that there is no phosphates absorbing media in the system.

The only non-sand, non-rock items in the system currently are ceramic media in a mesh bag. Those wouldn't absorb phosphate correct? The tank is not next to a window but there is a small level of natural light that seeps into the room its in, so it's possible the phosphate is being consumed by photosynthetic bacteria, right?

 

[sixty_reefer]

The only non-sand, non-rock items in the system currently are ceramic media in a mesh bag. Those wouldn't absorb phosphate correct? The tank is not next to a window but there is a small level of natural light that seeps into the room its in, so it's possible the phosphate is being consumed by photosynthetic bacteria, right?

Correct, you mentioned phosphates from 0.02 to 0.07 that’s a good number to start with the one thing your tank may be now limited by is dissolved organic carbon that as soon as you introduce fish should complete the cycle if not you can look into adding some at a later stage.

 

[Garf]

The only non-sand, non-rock items in the system currently are ceramic media in a mesh bag. Those wouldn't absorb phosphate correct? The tank is not next to a window but there is a small level of natural light that seeps into the room its in, so it's possible the phosphate is being consumed by photosynthetic bacteria, right?

Looks like you’re good to go but has nobody told you about the rule about posting a pic of your tank?

 

[Dan_P]

I made a post a last week regarding some cycling questions but I think I keep running into issues. Exactly one week ago I tested my ammonia using a Hanna digital checker and got a reading of 1.82 ppm. Since then, my ammonia has dropped significantly (it's now between .2-.3 ppm), but I have been having some weird things happen. First, I tested every other day to see when my ammonia readings would hit 0. However, I have had multiple instances where when I test ammonia, the value goes up from my previous test. For instance, on 9/7 I tested for ammonia and got .23 ppm, and today, my reading was .38 ppm (these are all being done in the Hanna digital checker, and I use the saltwater API test as a sanity check). On top of that, I still have high nitrites (this one I had to test with Saltwater API so it may not be as accurate but it is closer to the maximum value than 0). It doesn't seem like the cycle is fully stalled, but it sure is taking a long time. For reference, I used 100 gal worth of Fritz Turbo Start 900 along with Fritz Fishless Fuel (i.e. pure ammonia). To add another layer of confusion to my scenario, I also have a Seachem Ammonia monitor in my tank, and it is giving me the lowest reading possible (i.e., a "safe" level of ammonia which according to the monitor is around .02 ppm). Have I run into a potential problem here? Or am I just being impatient?

Perfectly normal. Nitrites can take awhile to come down. The Seachem ammonia monitor is measuring free ammonia, the other tests total ammonia. Depending on pH and temperature, a total ammonia measurement of 0.3 ppm (average of your two measurements) would correspond to 0.01-0.03 ppm free ammonia. Nothing weird going on.