Continuing issue with a closed Zoa

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Crazeh

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About 3 months ago added a Sunny D Zoa to my tank. It looked great for about 2-3 weeks till I lost a clownfish (due to bullying from another). Without being able to find its body, it led to an algae outbreak. Ever since, the Zoa has remained closed. Months have now passed and despite getting the tank back under control within a couple of weeks, I’ve had no success. Despite this, it's grown from 13 polyps to about 20.

Zoas on bottom left rock a week or so ago:
1.JPG


Zoas moved to middle centre rock:
DSC_3485.JPG


The tank is a 6 month old Fluval EVO 13.5G and has been stable with the below parameters for about 2-3 months, during which I’ve been doing 15% weekly water changes (using RODI water with almost new membranes etc.).

Salinity 1.025
Temp 25degC
PH ~8
Alkalinity 8dKH
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Phosphate 0
Calcium 420ppm

I know Zoas like some nitrates - I feel there is some in the tank, given that I have some algae and a small bit of cyanobacteria on the sand bed (so test is potentially masked?).

Filtration is a stock sponge, some bio rings, activated carbon, and a small skimmer (which doesn’t collect much of recent)

The Zoas did seem to be stretching, hence the reason for moving them higher in the tank. They’re no longer stretching, but not opening still, although I appreciate they may need more time. There is a powerhead nearby so flow is OK, and not too strong.

I’m confident pests are not an issue – they were dipped before entering the tank, and I re-dipped them about a month or two ago.

The Green Star Polyp and Acan in the tank are doing good without any issues.

My thoughts...The rock the Zoas are placed on has some red wire algae. I get some GHA growing on top of this (but not the LR). It can get long enough to bother the Zoas, so I clean them with a turkey baster daily, and scrub the GHA away from the red wire algae (unfortunately it starts to grows back in a matter of hours!). This could be the issue, but it doesn’t explain why they weren’t opening when placed on the other rock, where this wasn’t an issue.

My plan is to start feeding reef roids, just in case they are missing any nutrients, and to continue to eliminate the adjacent algae (despite feeding reservedly and using only RODI water). It would be nice to get some nitrates showing in the test but more often I just get more algae growth.

I intend to leave the Zoa where it is for the next few months with only the above changes, as I know they can be slow to respond.

Does my plan of action seem appropriate? I worry that because I've been trying for months I may have tunnel vision and be missing something.

Thanks for reading!
 
You need to out compete the algae. Phosphate at zero but having gha shows it’s being used up by gha so it won’t read on test. Find phosphate source. That should fix problem. I’m in the middle of the same battle.
 
You need to out compete the algae. Phosphate at zero but having gha shows it’s being used up by gha so it won’t read on test. Find phosphate source. That should fix problem. I’m in the middle of the same battle.

Any thoughts on phosphate sources? I feed sparingly and use RODI water which I've checked at 0 TDS.
 
What kind of rock did you start with? Could be leaching from the rock. GFO is useful ....just be careful to not over do it as truly zero nutrients can be a recipe for dinoflagellates!
 
Any thoughts on phosphate sources? I feed sparingly and use RODI water which I've checked at 0 TDS.

Could be leaching from rock as previously stated. You definitely have phosphate some where. Try testing ro water before adding it. I know membranes are new/like new but it’s made by man.
 
Zoas like moderate current , lights high in blues ( your tank seems bright, and feeding. Direct feed with small frozen or reef roids or similar.
In the water, if youre not doing regular water changes, add small amount weekly of Iodine, potassium, trace elements and Amino acid such as seachem Fuel

zoa garden.jpg
 
What kind of rock did you start with? Could be leaching from the rock. GFO is useful ....just be careful to not over do it as truly zero nutrients can be a recipe for dinoflagellates!

The middle rock was LR, the other two were dry. I made a rookie mistake of not soaking those in RODI water before adding to the tank, so your idea is certainly reasonable. I hadn't thought they could be an issue given they've been through 6 months of water changes. Will look into GFO, thanks!
 
I've just started running GFO (with a small water change) and my skimmers going a bit mad, lots of skimmate. Is this normal or should skimmer be off for a bit after GFO is added? I did rinse the GFO in its media bag in some of the old tank water.
 

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