Continuous siphon overflow

[lilqtpierikki]

oh ok, but do i NEED the filter sock? This is the set-up i'm using for my sump: http://www.podzilla.us/aquascapeDS/sump/sump.html

I was really just planning on putting a hose straight into the sump with my skimmer. Then the bubble baffles, fuge, and return with submersed return pump.
If i use the pvc pipe, wont it be a little more expensive? I wanted to use the hose that way i won't have to put an elbow. Plus won't it have the fastest gph if it's a straight hose?

Thanks for all the advice/info everyone. I really appreciate it!

 

[robert]

I would recommend the filter sock. I have overflow strainers fitted with sponge filters and even with those an 8" filter sock clogs to the point of overflow in a little over a month. So a filter sock is an easy, good mechanical filter - I think you would want one. PVC is very cheap, much cheaper than an equivalent length of flex hose and will usually provide better flow if you keep the runs short and straight as possible. (Use two 45 degree fittings in place of a 90 degree etc.) It really is very easy to work with. Most importantly its permanent, there are no clamps, no kinks - no accidents.

Sure you can use flex - I have in the past and I've always regretted it.

Keep your sump simple. Keep as big an area as possible on the side where your filter sock and skimmer live, separated by one or two baffles from the side where your return pump sits. If you chop up your sump with too many baffles you'll find one day you can't get that skimmer upgrade...or (I've actually seen this) - you can't even get the skimmer out! You'll never go wrong with open room in your sump.

In the design you've referenced, I'd skip the three baffle arrangement on the left. On the right, I'd add two baffles. The first extending from the bottom up to the recommended operating depth of the skimmer your using, and a second, two or three inches over, extending from somewhere close to the top, down to an inch or so of the bottom. In the gap is a good place for media bags and a filter sponge.

By the way, how are the fish doing - is your tank starting to cycle?

 

[Troylee]

Sounds like I could help ya out a little here... A drilled tank can and should be dead silent... Very easy to do with a stockman stand pipe better known as a durso... My tank have zero noise if I shut the skimmer off I swear you can hear anything with the house dead silent... Pretty painless and easy to do...

I have always used overflow boxes, until I got a 180rr.
to tell you the truth I hate it!!
the rr tank it is loud, plumbing it sucked, not to mention the wasted space from the overflows...

I have never had a problem with the marineland sos overflows totally silent, with the extra drainpipe it cant clog, and wont lose siphon. if I could trade back I would!

a couple people in our local club tried the diy overflow posted above and hate it. I know 3 ppl that did it and 2 have switched back to the overflow box.
everyone I know who built it says its a pain, and after cleaning gallons and gallons of water off the floor I dont blame them

 

[SaltWaterDave]

I would stay away from the CPR from person experience with them. If the aqualifter tubing gets clogged then the tank overflows because it really isn't a true continuous syphon design. The best one on the market is made by Lifereef and it works amazing. It never looses syphon and is what I've been using for 2 years now.

Here's a link:

prefilter box, siphon box, overflow box, siphon overflow, Eurobrace, Euro-brace, Euro-tank

 

[robert]

Yep, this is true. The CPR design can break siphon if the aqua-lifter fails and the water level drops, despite this the sump design should not allow the return to overfill the main ever. Both the return pump failure mode and the siphon break failure mode should be tested as you set up the sump. The Lifereef design looks like it addresses the broken siphon issue nicely.

I've used the CPR design though without any real problems. A couple of tricks I would recommend are using black opaque tubing with the aqua-lifter, painting the top of the overflow box to cut algae growth, and placing the second line from the aqua-lifter, in the tank, below the level of the overflow.

 

[lilqtpierikki]

thanks everyone. I think i'm leaning toward the lifereef pending on how much it costs. BRS won't waive the shipping costs to hawaii so now i have to find an alternative to my rock. So i'm not buying anything from there. I also have to check how much the shipping is going to cost on that lifereef. Sigh, i really hate/love living here! May have to wait a few years to continue my salt water hobby!

 

[lilqtpierikki]

i also want to mention that i am NOT NOT NOT drilling my tank. i understand it's the best method but i'm not going to do it. thanks.

 

[lilqtpierikki]

In the design you've referenced, I'd skip the three baffle arrangement on the left. On the right, I'd add two baffles. The first extending from the bottom up to the recommended operating depth of the skimmer your using, and a second, two or three inches over, extending from somewhere close to the top, down to an inch or so of the bottom. In the gap is a good place for media bags and a filter sponge.

By the way, how are the fish doing - is your tank starting to cycle?

So you say the baffles should be next to the return pump and 1 baffle next to the skimmer. I'm really confused on how you explained that. And why do i need media bags and a filter sponge when i have a sock on the input and live rock in the fuge.

i am down to 1 fish outta 4. He seems great. very lively. (Week 1-week 2) my ph 8.1-8.2 and ammonia lvls .25-.25 are low. but my nitrite .25-5 and nitrate 5.5-40 have spiked a LOT. I really need to get some rock in there. I'm really angry at my LFS. They said i shouldn't get live rock because it would die if i put it in an un-cycled tank. but how do they expect me to cycle when there's nothing for the bacteria to grow on?

 

[Decalf]

'I've used the CPR design though without any real problems. A couple of tricks I would recommend are using black opaque tubing with the aqua-lifter, painting the top of the overflow box to cut algae growth, and placing the second line from the aqua-lifter, in the tank, below the level of the overflow. '

These are great suggestion. I would add that the cpr overflow did not ever lose its prime if the second line from the aqua-lifter, in the tank,was kept below the level of the overflow. The overflow loses its prime when air flows back through the aqua lifter tube when it is left out of the tank and power is lost.

 

[beaslbob]

If I were to setup a tank and used an HOB overflow I would make one from $20 of pvc.

 

[luisgo]

I have an eshopps PF-1000 overflow in my 125 gallon since 2006 and has never failed. The key to have properly working U tubes overflow is to buy one that match the flow of you pump. Before this overflow I used to have a CPR and it was replaced because problems with the Aqualifter clogging. Also the eshopps overflow is very narrow and the tank can be placed very close to the back wall. My eshopps just have 3" depth. The best thing I like about my overflow is the two sponges to clean the water before it gets to the sump. No need to have filter socks that are not easy to clean and are difficult to access when you have your sump under your tank. For me cleaning the sponges every three days is a piece of cake!

 

[todd141]

I think the eshopps is the same design as the lifeReef. I've used the lifereef for 3 years and it has restarted on its own every single time. Has never failed me. Highly recommended.