Controlling ammonia in QT

[Fowler freak]

Ok guys emptied out my 250 to start fallow for 76+days. I caught all of my fish (7 wrasses, 4 tangs, 4 angels, 2 hawks, 1 clown/goby)
I’m housing them all in 3 separate tanks and have new mandatory full time job now [emoji17] I’ve been changing the water daily to keep ammonia down for my badge turns slightly green in less than 24 hours and let me tell you it’s awesome to see it come up so quickly because I love changing the water of three tanks which are rooted in my kitchen.....it’s a blast ‍
Is there a trick to keeping levels low than the obvious 20 percent daily water change? Since I will be housing the fish for close to 3 months I’m opting out of treating with copper immediately because I would rather start that as the 76+ day fallow period gets closer. Trying to time it better and not stressing the fish out even more than they already are. Lost 6 fish due to ich but the ones I still have, knock on wood, are survivors and haven’t succumbed to the termite.
Never have used prime and know not to mix with ionic copper which I plan to use Copperpower anyway. Always maintained the main tank to where I never had an issue with ammonia but due to having this many fish in smaller tanks and no skimmer it’s definitely a thing now.
Someone mentioned to use ammonia crystals an “old skool” trick but I’m reluctant to go that route for I don’t want to use my prized fish as guinea pigs because they’re my dawgs, I love them. If anyone can shed some uv rays on this subject I greatly appreciate it and your experience, if similar to mine, is welcomed with open fins. God bless guys

 

[Fowler freak]

Forgot to add that I used seeded sponge filter in all the 3 tanks too

 

[skr791346]

I just pour a bottle of biospira in if the ammonia badge starts turning slightly green and usually in less than 12 hours, it's back to yellow. Are you using any other meds beside Copper Power?

 

[LAReefer4Life]

Controlled feeding is crucial as over feeding is the quickest way to have ammonia spike. I was in the same boat as you. Didn’t have my tanks cycled and had to pull all fish out of DT for 3 months to go fallow. Unfortunately I was conducting 50% water changes daily for 4 weeks until the nitrifying bacteria did it’s job. I added several bottles of Tims one and only nitrifying bacteria in the first couple weeks and I used a seeded foam pad that I stick in my sump to help kick it in high gear. Hope this helps good luck

 

[dwest]

Ok guys emptied out my 250 to start fallow for 76+days. I caught all of my fish (7 wrasses, 4 tangs, 4 angels, 2 hawks, 1 clown/goby)
I’m housing them all in 3 separate tanks and have new mandatory full time job now [emoji17] I’ve been changing the water daily to keep ammonia down for my badge turns slightly green in less than 24 hours and let me tell you it’s awesome to see it come up so quickly because I love changing the water of three tanks which are rooted in my kitchen.....it’s a blast ‍
Is there a trick to keeping levels low than the obvious 20 percent daily water change? Since I will be housing the fish for close to 3 months I’m opting out of treating with copper immediately because I would rather start that as the 76+ day fallow period gets closer. Trying to time it better and not stressing the fish out even more than they already are. Lost 6 fish due to ich but the ones I still have, knock on wood, are survivors and haven’t succumbed to the termite.
Never have used prime and know not to mix with ionic copper which I plan to use Copperpower anyway. Always maintained the main tank to where I never had an issue with ammonia but due to having this many fish in smaller tanks and no skimmer it’s definitely a thing now.
Someone mentioned to use ammonia crystals an “old skool” trick but I’m reluctant to go that route for I don’t want to use my prized fish as guinea pigs because they’re my dawgs, I love them. If anyone can shed some uv rays on this subject I greatly appreciate it and your experience, if similar to mine, is welcomed with open fins. God bless guys

I would probably add another filter, like an aqua clear hang on back, to each tank. I always over size them. Then, as mentioned earlier, biospira works well for me.

 

[mfinn]

I had to do the same thing.
I moved all my my fish out of my 240 into a 100 gallon quarantine tank.
I already had 2 large sponge filters seeded before hand and when I put water in the 100 gallon tank I had a basket of ceramic balls in the sump.
I added a bottle of DR. Tims one and only in at the start.

I started bumping up the copper a few days after all the fish had time to settle down.
I did 32 days of copper power at or above 2.0ppm.
Took almost a week to get the copper level down to under .025ppm.
Started prazi pro yesterday and will go 12 days with 2 treatments.
After that it will be 2-1/2 weeks until day 76.

While in the quarantine tank I am feeding twice a day, but very light feedings.
Maybe 1/4 of what they had before. But I also fed heavy.

So far my ammonia badge has not gone green.

 

[George81]

Seachem matrix and bio spira, I was having the same issues, I read a thread here where someone suggested matrix. I bought the 1L jug and put it into the hob filter, the rest went into a media bag that I dropped directly into the qt. I dumped bio spira over it. I don’t have ammonia problems anymore.

 

[Fowler freak]

I just pour a bottle of biospira in if the ammonia badge starts turning slightly green and usually in less than 12 hours, it's back to yellow. Are you using any other meds beside Copper Power?

Not using anything but copperpower (after they settle in and I have a better grip of AM), kanaplex, and prazipro or metroplex. In that order too

 

[skr791346]

Not using anything but copperpower (after they settle in and I have a better grip of AM), kanaplex, and prazipro or metroplex. In that order too

Yeah, in that case, you shouldn't be having such issues with ammonia. Try biospira - I used to have issues with ammonia in QT when using Dr.Tim's or other brands but since switching to biospira, haven't had any issues. Only time I would see ammonia alert start to change color is if I'm using NFG, Erythromycin or during the post-QT 30 day observation period with no water changes.

 

[Fowler freak]

Yeah, in that case, you shouldn't be having such issues with ammonia. Try biospira - I used to have issues with ammonia in QT when using Dr.Tim's or other brands but since switching to biospira, haven't had any issues. Only time I would see ammonia alert start to change color is if I'm using NFG, Erythromycin or during the post-QT 30 day observation period with no water changes.

Bought a gallon of matrix and will soak with biopira on top of water changes+stability. Hope that does the trick for it’ll be a long 74 days qt all my dawgs [emoji20]