Controlling Phosphates

[Shawn_epicurious]

Most people who read this will probably already know I am working my way towards having an SPS dominant tank. My phosphates are running high. My Hannah ULR is showing above .6. My RODI is currently measuring .07. The area I live in has high Phosphate content in the city water. (I am only days away from replacing my current RODI system) I skim 24/7. It’s a 200 gallon tank with only 9 fish (I want more)

I might be over feeding... It doesn’t feel like I am...

I need a better control over phosphates! I am looking for recommendations. Refugium? GFO? I want long term control... I don’t really want to dose for phosphates.

edit: I am using a reactor for carbon... can GFO be mixed with card in the same reactor?

 

[Pistondog]

Most people who read this will probably already know I am working my way towards having an SPS dominant tank. My phosphates are running high. My Hannah ULR is showing above .6. My RODI is currently measuring .07. The area I love in has high Phosphate content in the city water. (I am only days away from replacing my current RODI system) I skim 24/7. It’s a 200 gallon tank with only 9 fish (I want more)

I might be over feeding... It doesn’t feel like I am...

I need a better control over phosphates! I am looking for recommendations. Refugium? GFO? I want long term control... I don’t really want to dose for phosphates.

Phosphat-e, aka lanthanum Chloride. Search on this website for proper precautions.
Do not dose, imo, only apply if phosphate is over 0.4 to 0.6. Do not use below 0.2.
And refugium.
Try to find source, reef roids are heavy contributor.

 

[Idoc]

Most people who read this will probably already know I am working my way towards having an SPS dominant tank. My phosphates are running high. My Hannah ULR is showing above .6. My RODI is currently measuring .07. The area I love in has high Phosphate content in the city water. (I am only days away from replacing my current RODI system) I skim 24/7. It’s a 200 gallon tank with only 9 fish (I want more)

I might be over feeding... It doesn’t feel like I am...

I need a better control over phosphates! I am looking for recommendations. Refugium? GFO? I want long term control... I don’t really want to dose for phosphates.

edit: I a, using a reactor for carbon... can GFO be mixed with card in the same reactor?

Well, you don't want your carbon to tumble otherwise it breaks up into small pieces and debri...this has been found to cause HLLE disease, etc...

 

[X-37B]

When I setup my 120 po4 was 0.68.
I used a small amount of phosgaurd in a bag, in the sump, to bring it down to .02 which is where it is now.
I feed pretty heavy and it always stays in that range, .02-.04, with no chems needed.
I do not feed corals and rarely feed pellets.
I have some hair algae but cleanup crew takes care of most of it.

 

[Shawn_epicurious]

Phosphat-e, aka lanthanum Chloride. Search on this website for proper precautions.
Do not dose, imo, only apply if phosphate is over 0.4 to 0.6. Do not use below 0.2.
And refugium.
Try to find source, reef roids are heavy contributor.

I don’t use reef roads... I am only 2 part dosing right now... very little is needed since my current bioload is mostly softies. Which really means three part... right? calcium chloride, soda ash and magnesium.

I feed two squares of frozen food per day... 4 scoops of high nutrient dry pellets (the scoop that came with it.. it’s really small) I do a small squirt of refrigerated mysis.. I also feed 25-30 mg of phytoplankton everyday... occasionally, I switch the phytoplankton for refridgerated oyster feast once a week ish... I add in some fish roe once a week. I also feed my snowflake eel re-hydrated krill. I also feed the same krill to a Mini maxi anemone... and thats it. My eel is a good 12”... (I miscounted my fish above) When I feed, it’s all gone (CUC helping eat it) in less than 5 minutes

my eel...
1 4” foxface
1 3-4” hippo tang
1 3” copperband butterflyfish
5 3” “Pakama” Cardinalfish
5 assorted smaller clownfish

Am I overfeeding?

 

[Shawn_epicurious]

Well, you don't want your carbon to tumble otherwise it breaks up into small pieces and debri...this has been found to cause HLLE disease, etc...

I didn’t think of that... my carbon does not tumble ... just sits there...

 

[Pistondog]

I don’t use reef roads... I am only 2 part dosing right now... very little is needed since my current bioload is mostly softies. Which really means three part... right? calcium chloride, soda ash and magnesium.

I feed two squares of frozen food per day... 4 scoops of high nutrient dry pellets (the scoop that came with it.. it’s really small) I do a small squirt of refrigerated mysis.. I also feed 25-30 mg of phytoplankton everyday... occasionally, I switch the phytoplankton for refridgerated oyster feast once a week ish... I add in some fish roe Nice a week. I also feed my snowflake eel re-hydrated krill. I also feed the same krill to a Mini maxi anemone... and that it. My eel is a good 12”... (I miscounted my fish above) When I feed, it’s all gone (CUC helpojg eat it) in less than 5 minutes

my eel...
1 4” foxface
1 3-4” hippo tang
1 3” copperband butterflyfish
5 3” “Pakama” Cardinalfish
5 assorted smaller clownfish

Am I overfeeding?

Probably not, but whatever the fish eat they poop, except for body mass growth. So its more a question of bioload, can your export system support that many fish.
This should be your thought process.

 

[X-37B]

I don’t use reef roads... I am only 2 part dosing right now... very little is needed since my current bioload is mostly softies. Which really means three part... right? calcium chloride, soda ash and magnesium.

I feed two squares of frozen food per day... 4 scoops of high nutrient dry pellets (the scoop that came with it.. it’s really small) I do a small squirt of refrigerated mysis.. I also feed 25-30 mg of phytoplankton everyday... occasionally, I switch the phytoplankton for refridgerated oyster feast once a week ish... I add in some fish roe once a week. I also feed my snowflake eel re-hydrated krill. I also feed the same krill to a Mini maxi anemone... and thats it. My eel is a good 12”... (I miscounted my fish above) When I feed, it’s all gone (CUC helping eat it) in less than 5 minutes

my eel...
1 4” foxface
1 3-4” hippo tang
1 3” copperband butterflyfish
5 3” “Pakama” Cardinalfish
5 assorted smaller clownfish

Am I overfeeding?

As long as its all getting eaten your good.
I can squirt oyster feast, r.o.e, or add reef roids and my po4 will go up for awhile and return to my targeted range by the next day.
I feed around 6 cubes a day spread out to 3-4 times to 12 fish.

 

[Shawn_epicurious]

Probably not, but whatever the fish eat they poop, except for body mass growth. So its more a question of bioload, can your export system support that many fish.
This should be your thought process.

Actually yeah... I guess that’s what I’m asking. What should I do for my export?

I currently have 2 packets of Purigen in my sump. A quality skimmer going 24/7... 14 fish is kind of a small number for my tank size... 310 lbs of live rock.. I have been adding copepods... I think I’ve dealt with detritus.

 

[Shawn_epicurious]

When I setup my 120 po4 was 0.68.
I used a small amount of phosgaurd in a bag, in the sump, to bring it down to .02 which is where it is now.
I feed pretty heavy and it always stays in that range, .02-.04, with no chems needed.
I do not feed corals and rarely feed pellets.
I have some hair algae but cleanup crew takes care of most of it.

Researching Phosguard

 

[X-37B]

If it was my tank I would pick my po4 range and use phosgaurd in a bag.
Around 1/2 a cup.
I used 1/4 cup.
Monitor po4 daily.
When it starts to go up after comming down replace it. Go slow as it took me about 2 weeks to drop to 0.02.
Go slow as adding too much will drop it very fast.

 

[Rick.45cal]

I’ve been managing mine with GFO (Rowaphos) in a reactor. GFO needs to tumble slightly in a reactor so you don’t want to mix it with carbon.

There are lots of availiable options, you just want to be careful not to remove too much too quickly or scavenge it too thoroughly or you may harm some of your corals. So whatever you choose, go slow with it until you get it where you want it to be.

 

[Shawn_epicurious]

I’ve been managing mine with GFO (Rowaphos) in a reactor. GFO needs to tumble slightly in a reactor so you don’t want to mix it with carbon.

There are lots of availiable options, you just want to be careful not to remove too much too quickly or scavenge it too thoroughly or you may harm some of your corals. So whatever you choose, go slow with it until you get it where you want it to be.

I am good at going slow : )

 

[schuby]

How about running macro algae? It naturally consumes both phosphate and nitrate.

 

[Shawn_epicurious]

How about running macro algae? It naturally consumes both phosphate and nitrate.

That’s why I asked about a refugium : ) ...I am starting to believe that might be my best option here

 

[schuby]

I run chaeto. Seemed to be the mist recommended when I was researching. Just remember not to let your trace iron go to zero: macro algae will die off.

 

[Shawn_epicurious]

I run chaeto. Seemed to be the mist recommended when I was researching. Just remember not to let your trace iron go to zero: macro algae will die off.

Trace iron... that’s new to me (googling) thank you!

 

[Shawn_epicurious]

I’ve been managing mine with GFO (Rowaphos) in a reactor. GFO needs to tumble slightly in a reactor so you don’t want to mix it with carbon.

There are lots of availiable options, you just want to be careful not to remove too much too quickly or scavenge it too thoroughly or you may harm some of your corals. So whatever you choose, go slow with it until you get it where you want it to be.

Can I mix GFO in a Carx?

 

[X-37B]

Can I mix GFO in a Carx?

No!

 

[Shawn_epicurious]

No!

Okay : ) had to ask