Converting RO to RODI

mickeysreef <*))))<

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so i just ordered a extra cartridge to convert my RO into RODI.

have found a lot of conflicting information on how to do this. i read that you do not want to use the water from the tank as it has additional TDS.

does anyone know if that is true? i havent bought my tds meter yet, i think im going to go with the dual prong to test what is coming out of RO and what is coming out of RODI or is there a better method?

so should i just add a Tee with valve or should I add the Tee with valve and a check valve on the tank side?

final question, the last cartridge on my setup is an order reducer (5th stage) , should i skip that one from the DI stage? just go from RO to DI?



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Ideally you would want to ditch the pressurized tank but If you're going to continue to use it for drinking water, you'll need a T and an extra ball valve to tap off of section G. Add a T on the yellow line and add a new line off of the newly inserted T, put your DI resin inline of that new line with the ball valve at the end so you can open and close the valve when you need 0TDS water.

The way I describe it above is a bad idea for 2 reasons.

1: The pressurized tank stores RO water so that when you call for it at the faucet, there's pressure behind it to quickly fill a glass. When opening the newly added ball valve you will rush a lot of RO water past the DI resin and it won't be in contact with the resin long enough to strip the remaining TDS from the water.

An easy solution would be to barely open the added ball valve to regulate the flow through the DI resin.

2: When using a manual ball valve to call for RODI water will result in a flood if you forget that you're filling up a container.

If you outfit your RODI container with a float valve you will be able to slightly open the ball valve and walk away, when the RODI container is full, it will shut off and the pressurized tank will refill with RO water.

Ideally you would want a separate unit so that it doesn't complicate things, bit if you grasp what you're doing, it isn't that complicated.

Hopefully this all makes sense. If not let me know and I can clarify for you.
 
Another fix for problem 1 would be to manually close the ball valve (Y) on the tank and then you can open the newly added ball valve all the way up.


yes i was thinking of putting a valve on the tank line for when i get rodi.

any idea if that 5th filter should be skipped? its after ro
 
You don’t really need it depending on what membranes you’re using. Do you know what kind of filters you have? (Sediment, carbon, floss, etc)
yes i was thinking of putting a valve on the tank line for when i get rodi.

any idea if that 5th filter should be skipped? its after ro
 
yes i was thinking of putting a valve on the tank line for when i get rodi.

any idea if that 5th filter should be skipped? its after ro
Nope.. don't pass it through the 5th stage. T it right after the membrane "G"

The 5th stage adds minerals back into the water for taste.
 
Nope.. don't pass it through the 5th stage. T it right after the membrane "G"

The 5th stage adds minerals back into the water for taste.


thanks yeah i didnt have a check valve so i added 2 regular values.

you can see it in the picture, one cutting off the tank and 5th filter from the DI and another on the entrance to the DI. so just one on each side of the Tee

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