Coolia Dinos

Restoring nutrient levels is important long term. Coolia is one of the harder ones to treat for me. It does respond to UV but not as quickly as ostreopsis. I would also consider dosing phytoplankton. That seems to be helpful with most types of dinos.

What size is your tank?! Running UV has no consequences for your fish, whoever told you that is way off. Your UV is appropriate for a tank of about 150 gallons for dinos. Manufacturer's recommendations are for applications other than dinos. As of now, manufacturers aren't really considering or have any knowledge of treating dinos with UV.
I totally missed this response, sorry. My tanks water volume is 90 gallons. Ive had the UV on for a bit over a month now. Seems like the dinos are coming back. Seeing more on sand bed once again....grrrrr!!!! At night they defiantly lessen. I did a no display light for 5 days acouple weeks ago and the sand bed was clean and clear. But 3 days after lights come back on...they are showing back up. Ive move my lights to all blues and reduced light schedule 9hrs down to 5hrs. Was running UV just at night...now running UV 24/7, except the 7am-noon off for bacteria dosing (skimmer also). Ive since stopped dosing, but thinking of starting again...8pm dose 9 mls of h2o2 and then 8am 9ml dose mb7. I just didnt see any response doing this...but the dino document states its something to try to push them out.

I have not did anything with phyto or pods....placing a big order of pods this week. Would I just dose phyo instead of mb7..or both? Checked nutrients and they have been around .10 (this am was .13) and no3 was 14.

Jebao 55watt UV had a 1.5 sicce on it for a while....read taricha dino document said slow as possible...so I drop to a 1.0 sicce


UV setup (blue tape to fill gap of lid, due to plumbing over edge...keeping it classy :)
uv 1.jpg

dino 3.jpg



Flipped lights on.......after light out...was having trouble getting decent pic. That's why all the coral are retracted.

dino 2.jpg

dino 1.jpg
 
Perfectly ok to dose bacteria and phyto. I would not do any further blackouts. As you've already discovered, they don't get rid of it and could just further stress already stressed corals.

Lowering the flow through the UV should help, you could even go with a 0.5 Sicce if you have one.

Are these pictures reflective of how it looks now? Is this as bad as it gets? If so, I would re-sample the sand as you might have a second type of dino that's not sensitive to UV. That is all to common unfortunately.

Get about a tsp of the sand in a small vial (I use the one that comes with a Salifert NO3 test kit) and pour the water off until there's just enough to cover the sand. Shake it vigorously and put a single drop of the water (which should look cloudy/brown) on the slide. Post pics/video at around 200x and 400x.
 
Will do! Ya those pics were 3 days ago. Corals open were mid day. Corals closed were at lights out. I’ll grab some pics at lunch today and a sand/water sample pic/vid.
 
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Pics and vids. Ya seems to be different than before. I don’t see much moving.


FA4A9B0F-FC4D-4090-958D-DA7DFE14C1EF.jpeg

E7EDBE9E-088F-45B8-8B4C-4CE461E30C49.jpeg C833538D-A8DB-47B1-99A3-1DB6ABB0DD9A.jpeg
 
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Pics and vids. Ya seems to be different than before. I don’t see much moving.


FA4A9B0F-FC4D-4090-958D-DA7DFE14C1EF.jpeg

E7EDBE9E-088F-45B8-8B4C-4CE461E30C49.jpeg C833538D-A8DB-47B1-99A3-1DB6ABB0DD9A.jpeg

Only things I can ID on those slides are sponge spicules and diatoms. One single cell might be a dino at an odd angle but I don't think so.
 
Controlled via apex 77.6-78.4 always ran this range...3 years now. Its crazy I scooped and checked sand multiple times this weekend, do to seeing "build up" of something on the sand. But I am starting to think its just diatoms. When I scoop it, the second I lift it from the bottom it seems to disappear instantly. The 3-4 times I have sampled, I have not much of anything moving in the slides. I did see 1 maybe 2 coolia on a slide, but I really had to search. So Im going to probably run the UV for another week or two and continue to check via scope.

Seen this crazy creature while viewing..

 
Update, no luck still same coolia dino battle.

What Ive tried so far...been 2.5 weeks

-Kept nutrients at 5-10 and .05-.1
-Have a 55watt Jabeo UV plumbed over the top edge of the tank, running 24/7, bucket test as me around 300gph...more on this later
-Blowing sand off at light out.
-Hung, via veg clips, a couple of cut of wool filter socks in the tank to catch dinos when in water column, rinse out.
-Every few days put 50 micron wool filter sock at night to catch when in water column, haven't done this alot just because Im trying to keep my nutrient levels up.
-Did 3 day no lights, not black out, just room ambient light.
-Rechecked dinos same strain..

Back to the UV, I was informed that my UV was oversized and that I could be hitting my fish with excess ozone causing possible fish issue. I have a midas bleeny for 2 years that has lately just been laying on the sand. From what I have researched the only thing oversized UV would cause was eases heat. I've now changed my UV to run during lights out only. Is this a valid concern?

My current attempt this week is 5 days of no display lights. Dosing 1ml/10gal of h2o2 to my water column at normal light out time, 8pm and then in the am, 8am no uv, no skimmer for 3hrs and dosing 1ml/10gal of MB7. Running uv 8pm-8am only.

Looking for suggestions, the first 3 day no lights seem to take care of them, but once i put lights back on they came back. Maybe I should really dial back my lights and not go right back to full schedule?
i did a blackout and they came right back once lights were back on. i got so excited too. what did you do to end up getting rid of them? i am silicate dosing. i have a UV even though the UV isnt doing anything..... i have the kind that doesnt migrate into water.....of course.
 

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