Copied configuration not functioning...

JBKReef

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Now I have no problem admitting that I am not the sharpest tool in the shed when it comes to Apex programming.

That being said I’m pretty sure I’ve followed all the necessary steps for what I want to function correctly however... it’s not.

In an effort to stabilize my aquarium temperature (its currently fluctuating 3 degrees 3-4 times a day 76-79 and back again) I’m splitting the load between two heaters on separate outlets. You can see here labeled heater_main and heater_8_4.

F9575D0C-5BD8-46E1-AC27-61EC6069CAA1.png

I’ve selected the “copy configuration” from my heater_main for the heater_8_4.

83A12146-F9CD-47D3-8CEC-7CB899E32BCB.png
By doing this the configurations and setting are identical.
F14F04E6-02D6-4F76-8824-14DB6ED64AE0.png 2BE7B816-C0F1-4E44-8947-E0A6B54E4060.png

That being said, when I move the sliders to “auto” how everything runs on my tank the outlet will not power on for the heater.

F9575D0C-5BD8-46E1-AC27-61EC6069CAA1.png

I’m at a loss as to what I’m doing wrong and why a configured outlet copied directly are not acting in the same manner.

Help me Reef2Reef, you’re my only hope.







 
What type of outlet is Heater8_4? I would bet they are different types of outlets and that is why it is not coming on.
Click the gear and make sure they are the same type.
 
Looks like both probe names are the same....they need to be different don't they ?
I run mine within .3 of one degree
3 degrees is a lot of swing for a tank I think.
 
If you change the outlet type to "advanced", what does the code look like? I'm wondering if the config doesn't have the "set" option defined.
 
Out of curiosity, what is the temp of your tank right now and when you added this second heater outlet?

The reason I ask is because it's only set to turn on when the temp is less than 75 degrees. So for example, if your tank was at 78 degrees when you added this second heater outlet, it's higher than the turn on temp and lower than the turn off temp. Since you don't have a "Set ON" statement (which many people don't on heater outlets), there's no default on state and it won't turn on until it hits below the temperature specified, which is 75 degrees in your case.
 
Out of curiosity, what is the temp of your tank right now and when you added this second heater outlet?

The reason I ask is because it's only set to turn on when the temp is less than 75 degrees. So for example, if your tank was at 78 degrees when you added this second heater outlet, it's higher than the turn on temp and lower than the turn off temp. Since you don't have a "Set ON" statement (which many people don't on heater outlets), there's no default on state and it won't turn on until it hits below the temperature specified, which is 75 degrees in your case.

I’ll be danged, that makes sense. That command in the default programs almost confused me... I understand to turn it off if it’s boiling the tank but an on command doesn’t make sense to me.

Edit: I didn’t use danged, funny auto correct
 
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Why not just tighten up the on and off temps to minimize the swings?

I know this sounds crazy but there is an audible click when the outlets turn on and off... so I let the heaters internal thermostat act as primary controller and the apex as back up for failure control and alerts.

If I had a normal heater (what I’m moving to) that would not be an issue, but I’m using an ink bird with a finnex titanium heater that relies on the inkbird controller.

I’ve moved to two eheim jager heaters to split the load and hopefully close the windows.

You can see the heater variance in the base line of this photo

EDB9B4BF-0573-4E27-97C2-9F912DD14A7E.png

Now I get the swings are not idea but the softies in my tank are doing great, while the LPS is a little stunted but still healthy. I did try two pieces of SPS, they did not fair well so I figured I would try to correct the swings.
 
I’ll be danged, that makes sense. That command in the default programs almost confused me... I understand to turn it off if it’s boiling the tank but an on command doesn’t make sense to me.

As someone else suggested, I'd recommend tightening up the on/off temps a bit to reduce swings. The way you're setup otherwise is fine though. Personally, I use my Apex a bit differently than most for heater control. I still use the temp probe on my heater as the main indicator of when to heat (after calibrating it with my Apex temp probe), then only use Apex to kill power to the outlet if it gets too hot (malfunctioning heater) or too cold (malfunctioning probe). So in my case, I have a "Set ON" that keeps the default state of the outlet as on, then I rely on my heater to regulate temp. For this particular outlet, I just use Apex as a failsafe to kill power if something gets outta wack.
 
As someone else suggested, I'd recommend tightening up the on/off temps a bit to reduce swings. The way you're setup otherwise is fine though. Personally, I use my Apex a bit differently than most for heater control. I still use the temp probe on my heater as the main indicator of when to heat (after calibrating it with my Apex temp probe), then only use Apex to kill power to the outlet if it gets too hot (malfunctioning heater) or too cold (malfunctioning probe). So in my case, I have a "Set ON" that keeps the default state of the outlet as on, then I rely on my heater to regulate temp. For this particular outlet, I just use Apex as a failsafe to kill power if something gets outta wack.

That’s wxaxtly what I’m aiming for... when you say “set on” can you detail how to change that? Or are you simply saying the sides on “on”

I appreciate your insight
 
Sure, my code is below. This makes the outlet's default state on, then kills power if my Apex temp probe gets a higher reading than 78.5 or lower than 55.0. My heater's thermostat is set to 78, so my temp fluctuations are 77.9 to 78.3 at most.

The only statement you may want to tweak is "Fallback ON". This is to define the behavior you'd like if the EB8 loses connectivity with the Apex. Most people have it set to off, but I personally chose to keep it on. The way I see it, if my EB8 and my heater simultaneously take a dump, I'm screwed, but if my only my EB8 fails, then my tank is still being heated via the heater's temp probe. The main reason most people set this option to off is because they're not using the temperature control on their heaters at all and just have them cranked all the way up, with the Apex being the brains of the operation and telling it when to turn on. In that scenario, the entire time the outlet has power, the heater is heating. In my setup, the heater has power the majority of the time, but is only heating when needed.


Fallback ON
Set ON
If Tmp > 78.5 Then OFF
If Tmp < 55.0 Then OFF
 
Sure, my code is below. This makes the outlet's default state on, then kills power if my Apex temp probe gets a higher reading than 78.5 or lower than 55.0. My heater's thermostat is set to 78, so my temp fluctuations are 77.9 to 78.3 at most.

The only statement you may want to tweak is "Fallback ON". This is to define the behavior you'd like if the EB8 loses connectivity with the Apex. Most people have it set to off, but I personally chose to keep it on. The way I see it, if my EB8 and my heater simultaneously take a dump, I'm screwed, but if my only my EB8 fails, then my tank is still being heated via the heater's temp probe. The main reason most people set this option to off is because they're not using the temperature control on their heaters at all and just have them cranked all the way up, with the Apex being the brains of the operation and telling it when to turn on. In that scenario, the entire time the outlet has power, the heater is heating. In my setup, the heater has power the majority of the time, but is only heating when needed.


Fallback ON
Set ON
If Tmp > 78.5 Then OFF
If Tmp < 55.0 Then OFF


This works. I really appreciate the help.
 

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