Copper Testing Simplified! Using Hanna Instruments High Range Copper Checker HI702

[HotRocks]

<sigh> OK, another $49 Hanna Checker it is then. I resisted, then read more, then did several API tests today and caved. Ordered!

Well worth the 49 dollars with the fish you will save @don_chuwish

 

[don_chuwish]

Well worth the 49 dollars with the fish you will save @don_chuwish

Indeed, I think that's the justification for every $ we spend in this hobby!

 

[mfinn]

Thank-you @HotRocks and everyone else who had a hand in doing the research and testing to figure out this Hanna Copper checker works.
I watched the thread and saw what happened and bought the Hanna Copper check a few months ago, knowing I would need it.

I have a couple Potters Wrasses in quarantine right now and started copper power 4 days ago.
I planned on ramping the copper level up over 6-7 days ( usually 4) because I've had trouble getting potters through a full quarantine period before.
I did not test the copper level for the first 3 days because I used such small amounts.
First thing this morning, I used my API test kit and got the usual uncertainty that I always had using this kit. I figured the copper level was, maybe 1 ppm, or maybe somewhere between 1 pmm and 2pmm. Not really sure.
So then I opened up the Hanna box and gave it a go this morning and while I was a little unsure and had to re-read the directions 4-5 times as well as I was doing it.
When it was done I knew exactly what the copper level was.
There is no doubt.

Makes me wonder how many fish I killed with overdoses using the color tests, and how did I ever end up getting ick free fish.

Now if I could only figure a easy way to get all the powder out of the packet and into the vial. lol

 

[HotRocks]

Thank-you @HotRocks and everyone else who had a hand in doing the research and testing to figure out this Hanna Copper checker works.
I watched the thread and saw what happened and bought the Hanna Copper check a few months ago, knowing I would need it.

I have a couple Potters Wrasses in quarantine right now and started copper power 4 days ago.
I planned on ramping the copper level up over 6-7 days ( usually 4) because I've had trouble getting potters through a full quarantine period before.
I did not test the copper level for the first 3 days because I used such small amounts.
First thing this morning, I used my API test kit and got the usual uncertainty that I always had using this kit. I figured the copper level was, maybe 1 ppm, or maybe somewhere between 1 pmm and 2pmm. Not really sure.
So then I opened up the Hanna box and gave it a go this morning and while I was a little unsure and had to re-read the directions 4-5 times as well as I was doing it.
When it was done I knew exactly what the copper level was.
There is no doubt.

Makes me wonder how many fish I killed with overdoses using the color tests, and how did I ever end up getting ick free fish.

Now if I could only figure a easy way to get all the powder out of the packet and into the vial. lol

I am so glad that you found the article useful! We have had to adapt even further to combat some other issues!

I need to write another article in regards to the use of ABX to combat some of these gram negative bacterial infections.

Congrats and Good luck with your potters wrasse! I just added 2 to my DT a month ago! Awesome fish!

 

[Pbh-reef]

Apologies if this has been asked before - when I use my Hanna copper checker there is often some powered reagent left undissolved after the 15 seconds of gentle shacking the instructions call for. Is that ok or do I need to ensure it is fully dissolved?

 

[mfinn]

Apologies if this has been asked before - when I use my Hanna copper checker there is often some powered reagent left undissolved after the 15 seconds of gentle shacking the instructions call for. Is that ok or do I need to ensure it is fully dissolved?

I would think you have to shake it a little harder.
I've noticed in the 10 times I've used mine, that gentle shaking didn't work.
You need to shake it, maybe moderately hard? Just don't go crazy and cause air bubbles in the water.

 

[Reefahholic]

I just compared today with the CHEMetrics. Pretty darn close! You just cannot beat a digital read out with an exact number! I’ll take a digital read out all day.

 

[HotRocks]

I always just shake it really hard for 30 seconds until everything is all dissolved.

 

[mfinn]

I always just shake it really hard for 30 seconds until everything is all dissolved.

I stand corrected. lol

 

[Pbh-reef]

I always just shake it really hard for 30 seconds until everything is all dissolved.

Ok thanks very much!

 

[JumboShrimp]

Agreed. Shake it like crazy. Then when finished shaking, turn and hold the vial horizontally. You will see all the micro-bubbles from the vigorous shaking along the inner sides of the vial: Slowly revolve the vial (like the drum on a cement mixer) and the ‘main’ air pocket should take away (absorb) all the micro-bubbles.

 

[Reefahholic]

This one “shuts off” 10 minutes after you get the reading (I think).

Does anybody know how long it takes to shut off after you do the Add C1 step? Like when you’re about to actually test the sample water...how long do you have to get it into the checker before it shuts off?

 

[HotRocks]

This one “shuts off” 10 minutes after you get the reading (I think).

Does anybody know how long it takes to shut off after you do the Add C1 step? Like when you’re about to actually test the sample water...how long do you have to get it into the checker before it shuts off?

It will also shut off if you wait ten minutes between baseline and actual test.

 

[JumboShrimp]

Unless the software has been updated for newer-shipped Copper Checkers, I think the main complaint was that following the first base (non-reagent) reading and trying to add reagent (and shake, and remove micro bubbles) there was only 2 minutes to get the vial back in place. It can be done— just have the reagent packet pre-cut open, and folded into a funnel, ready to pour (tap, tap) into the vial.

 

[mfinn]

OK, got a issue this morning, using the Hanna Copper Checker.
I've taken almost a week to bring the copper power level up.
From .95 to 1.88 on Sunday. Monday it dropped to 1.61. So I added 4mls and tested yesterday and it was at 1.97.
This morning I did 2 tests and they both said 0.53.
The only thing I did was to add a half gallon of topoff water yesterday.
THe reagents I used in all the previous tests were the ones that came with the test kit ( 10 ).
The tests this morning were done with a new box of 25 that I bought when I bought the Hanna checker.

I figured the drop from 1.88 to 1.61 on Sunday to Monday was because of the bowl of sand ( 2 cups) I have in the tank for the wrasses.
But then from 1.97 yesterday to 0.53 today?

@HotRocks any advice?

 

[JumboShrimp]

Yes, that does sound ‘messed up.’ Depending on what product you are using for your copper, could you get a 5-gallon bucket of saltwater and make a batch of ‘known’ strength medicated water by following the dosing directions/product literature, and Hanna test it for a reading? Maybe once with the reagent packets that came originally with the Checker, and also with the new packets? Even if you are out of the original reagent, testing your new packets against the ‘known’ sample of water should be helpful. Hopefully you can figure out how to keep your QT within the therapeutic range.

 

[mfinn]

I tested with the API color test and it definitely shows a copper level I would guess in the 2.0 range. Maybe a touch higher.
Tough to tell when the ppm goes from 2.0, then the next measurement is 4.0.

The wrasses are very active and hungry, so I know it's not too high.

So I guess could get a bucket with say 3 gallons of water and add Copper Power to bring it up to 2.0
How many mls is that?

 

[mfinn]

Yes, that does sound ‘messed up.’ Depending on what product you are using for your copper, could you get a 5-gallon bucket of saltwater and make a batch of ‘known’ strength medicated water by following the dosing directions/product literature, and Hanna test it for a reading? Maybe once with the reagent packets that came originally with the Checker, and also with the new packets? Even if you are out of the original reagent, testing your new packets against the ‘known’ sample of water should be helpful. Hopefully you can figure out how to keep your QT within the therapeutic range.

OK, so if I use 3 gallons of my display tank water and add 4.4 mls, I should get a reading with the Hanna Copper checker at or near 2.5ppm
( doing a google search and it tells me there are 29.5 mls in a fluid ounce. Divide 29.5 by 20 gallons ( 1 ounce of Copper Power per 20 gallons to get 2.5ppm) and multiply by 3 and get 4.4 )
Does that sound right?

 

[JumboShrimp]

Sorry— I’m a lawyer— I know words. But I’m mathematically illiterate!!

 

[mfinn]

OK, so if I use 3 gallons of my display tank water and add 4.4 mls, I should get a reading with the Hanna Copper checker at or near 2.5ppm
( doing a google search and it tells me there are 29.5 mls in a fluid ounce. Divide 29.5 by 20 gallons ( 1 ounce of Copper Power per 20 gallons to get 2.5ppm) and multiply by 3 and get 4.4 )
Does that sound right?

So, I did the above and am getting a reading of 2.29ppm with the Hanna checker.
The only difference was I took the reagent packet from the middle of the group, as opposed to the one side of the box like I did with the previous 2 tests.
So I will test the quarantine tank water again with a packet from the same area.