Coral color is diminishing

Oops! Blue and purple coral colors are usually non-fluorescent chromoproteins, so search for "Riddle chromoproteins."
 
If you're sure lighting isn't the issue and flow hasn't changed... Have you changed sea salts? I just today tested an artificial sea salt and found 0.38 ppm free copper in the water (not from the RO/DI unit. I checked. And the house has PEX water supply lines.) I'll leave it up to others to hash out nutrients affecting coloration. Nitrates and phosphates are quite high along the coast of the Big Island (nitrates leaching from young volcanic rock and cesspools. Phosphate from cesspools) and coral green fluorescence and pink chromoproteins are quite common. I'll look into the effects of excessive nutrients once the lab gets set up.
 
If you're sure lighting isn't the issue and flow hasn't changed... Have you changed sea salts? I just today tested an artificial sea salt and found 0.38 ppm free copper in the water (not from the RO/DI unit. I checked. And the house has PEX water supply lines.) I'll leave it up to others to hash out nutrients affecting coloration. Nitrates and phosphates are quite high along the coast of the Big Island (nitrates leaching from young volcanic rock and cesspools. Phosphate from cesspools) and coral green fluorescence and pink chromoproteins are quite common. I'll look into the effects of excessive nutrients once the lab gets set up.
I actually did switch to af but doubt that's the problem. I don't recall having copper levels from the icp of fresh made water.
 
If you've got ICP results, look at cobalt and nickel (as well as copper) concentrations. These can quench fluorescence as well.
 
How long have you been running the SB Reef Lights?

Describe the color loss. Is the color lightening in the middle sections but not really on say a half inch from the edge?
 
How long have you been running the SB Reef Lights?

Describe the color loss. Is the color lightening in the middle sections but not really on say a half inch from the edge?

Not to hijack the thread but that's exactly what my Red monti is doing only the middle is losing color the edges are still red. I switched from Reefkeepers to the Kessil Ap700. What is your suggestions if it's not losing color along the 1/2" edge??
 
I haven't read the whole thread but it sounds like your po4 is out of balance to your no3. Did you use gfo to strip the po4 out of the water?
 
Loss of color is not low nutrient alone. (No3 or po4)
Montis do great as low as .015.
 
Not to hijack the thread but that's exactly what my Red monti is doing only the middle is losing color the edges are still red. I switched from Reefkeepers to the Kessil Ap700. What is your suggestions if it's not losing color along the 1/2" edge??
Lower the intensity of your lights.
 
How long have you been running the SB Reef Lights?

Describe the color loss. Is the color lightening in the middle sections but not really on say a half inch from the edge?
I've had sb the entire time the tank has been set up. It loses patches the edge seems ok but patches here and there.
 
Let's not over think this. This is key. This is simple imo. I do water changes for a few reasons. I keep mostly sps corals with a few zoas.
I do regular 15% water changes mostly to keep nutrients low, but also to keep trace elements plentiful. When you stop doing water changes, your nutrients rise and trace elements decline. Then you lose color. Trace elements have a lot to do with color. Minor and major. Start doing water changes again. Start with a solid 20% water change. Then do 10% each week for a few weeks. Then move to every 2 weeks, but keep it consistent after that. You have to replace elements with new water regularly.
IMO, keep it simple. I don't dose anything for color. I feed my fish and thats it. Nothing else. Fish poop feeds corals, that's all you need. Been doing it this way for years. LOTS of flow.........
 
Let's not over think this. This is key. This is simple imo. I do water changes for a few reasons. I keep mostly sps corals with a few zoas.
I do regular 15% water changes mostly to keep nutrients low, but also to keep trace elements plentiful. When you stop doing water changes, your nutrients rise and trace elements decline. Then you lose color. Trace elements have a lot to do with color. Minor and major. Start doing water changes again. Start with a solid 20% water change. Then do 10% each week for a few weeks. Then move to every 2 weeks, but keep it consistent after that. You have to replace elements with new water regularly.
IMO, keep it simple. I don't dose anything for color. I feed my fish and thats it. Nothing else. Fish poop feeds corals, that's all you need. Been doing it this way for years. LOTS of flow.........
I might be wrong but wouldn't af amino compensate for tree trace elements when you don't change water. Same with components 123+
 
Keep it simple. Nothing can substitute a water change to replace trace elements. Some companies may say that this little bottle has it all.
But Water changes are the big non negotiable imo. Water changes, water changes, water changes.
Check out Jason Fox, we all know he knows what he's doing. You check out his booths at any show he does. His coral colors are spot on. He does 30% biweekly with out fail.
 
Keep it simple. Nothing can substitute a water change to replace trace elements. Some companies may say that this little bottle has it all.
But Water changes are the big non negotiable imo. Water changes, water changes, water changes.
Check out Jason Fox, we all know he knows what he's doing. You check out his booths at any show he does. His coral colors are spot on. He does 30% biweekly with out fail.
 
So not to confuse, but Some do have to be dosed. I dose cal,alk,mag,k on a daily and weekly basis because the decline is so impactful.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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