Coral/Invert Quarantine Time Frames

[Humblefish]

I think I read somewhere that you suggested feeding some seaweed to the tank to feed the snails, Is this correct?

Nori & algae wafers for the herbivores; meat/seafood for any carnivorous snails (e.g. nassarius).

Also would running a skimmer in a tank take too much out of the system since it’s already an ULNS. Planning to qt all SPS Corals and just wondering if they would starve from too clean a system.

So long as you're getting a slight nitrate reading, skim away.

 

[HotRocks]

@Humblefish I have a question. So if I have a coral QT setup (Fallow), is it possible to add and remove corals at different times based on their own 76 day period? Meaning if today I put in 2 new coral/rocks, and there are 5 items that have been in already for 70days, the 5 items are good to come out 6 days later and then the 2 new items remain for the next 70? Not possible for cross contamination, such as fish QT, where the clock starts over anytime a new one is added?

The reason I ask is I just setup a new display, and I want to buy some items off of other hobbyists. All items in display went in at same time starting the new 76 day clock. But as I acquire new things I want to make sure they can all be put in my QT for coral in basement logging dates for items, to keep from having multiple tanks setup. Getting them to display as soon as possible maintaining a sterile environment.

 

[Humblefish]

@HotRockTarBaby Since tomonts cannot transfer, each coral/invert is good to go after completing their own 76 day isolation period.

However, there could be free swimmers in the water (from a newer coral/invert), and it is conceivable that one could inadvertently be on the coral/invert (in a droplet of water) as you remove it from QT. To neutralize this threat, simple pour DT water all over it (and into a bucket to be discarded) before placing in your DT. This will "wash away" any free swimmers before they can enter your DT. Or for corals, a 10 min dip using CoralRx, Bayer, etc. should eliminate any free swimmers (but not tomonts) in the water.

 

[HotRocks]

@HotRockTarBaby Since tomonts cannot transfer, each coral/invert is good to go after completing their own 76 day isolation period.

However, there could be free swimmers in the water (from a newer coral/invert), and it is conceivable that one could inadvertently be on the coral/invert (in a droplet of water) as you remove it from QT. To neutralize this threat, simple pour DT water all over it (and into a bucket to be discarded) before placing in your DT. This will "wash away" any free swimmers before they can enter your DT. Or for corals, a 10 min dip using CoralRx, Bayer, etc. should eliminate any free swimmers (but not tomonts) in the water.

Thank you very much, so the rinse is the important step during transfer. I really appreciate your info! I know my good buddy @4FordFamily has a lot of respect for you!

 

[Humblefish]

I know my good buddy @4FordFamily has a lot of respect for you!

The respect is mutual.

 

[chicago]

ok.. wait to be clear.. assuming.. a frag system for sps.. each sps is cut from its plug. washed and treated in dip.. placed in frag QT system.
Are we saying that if we do lets say two batches to keep it simple.... we do batch one on day one... place ten frags in ... those can come out on day 76? Even though we put in batch two on day 35.. additional 10 frags...

I guess what I am saying to be clear.. is that unlike a fish QT system ... the clock does not reset when placing new frags into the frag QT system?

 

[Brew12]

ok.. wait to be clear.. assuming.. a frag system for sps.. each sps is cut from its plug. washed and treated in dip.. placed in frag QT system.
Are we saying that if we do lets say two batches to keep it simple.... we do batch one on day one... place ten frags in ... those can come out on day 76? Even though we put in batch two on day 35.. additional 10 frags...

I guess what I am saying to be clear.. is that unlike a fish QT system ... the clock does not reset when placing new frags into the frag QT system?

That is correct.

Marine Ich and Velvet can form tomonts on any hard surface such as frag plugs or exposed coral skeletons. They will hatch in less than 72 days. At this point they become free swimmers but without a fish host they wills starve out in under 3 weeks (much quicker for Ich). When you add the second batch you may get free swimmers for the next 72 days but they cannot reattach to the first batch. So, the only concern you have with the first batch are free swimmers which can be treated with dips and good rinses.

Hope that helps!

 

[chicago]

got it !! understood.. thanks.

 

[Andyrm66]

Wife just had an idea, and for once doesn't seem half bad....we have a new tank to setup, so can we cycle it, then add fish, then lower salinity, and perform hypo in the dt? Of course all future fish would be hypo in in the qt.

In other words, how hard is hypo on bacteria in the dt?

Btw great article as well, in our previous tanks we qt'ed EVERYTHING after we had a bout with ich. To this day it still amazes me to hear people say ich is in the air, or on dry rock, or its bacteria or theres nothing you can do, it's just like a cycle. smh

 

[Humblefish]

Hypo only treats flukes and some strains of ich. It will not eradicate other diseases, including the #1 tank killer in this hobby: Marine Velvet Disease

 

[chicago]

not sure if you want to hypo and new set up.. then again never tried it. there are pros and cons.. Humble fish did a great write up sticky for it.. I added a lot of comments on my one year hypo treatment.. its a long story you can find on the thread if you like. Good Luck

 

[Andyrm66]

Wow, started reading more posts by HF, such good info. I've always used Copper before but such a pain, thought we'd do hypo, but CP seems the way to go, plus I get to build another tank, err, I mean QT tank.

 

[HotRocks]

Ok @Humblefish I'm not trying to wear you out with this... Bought some chaeto today, chart says 16days. Then dip. My newly set up display is fishless, everything in it is on day 41. Waiting till day 76 to add fish. Can chaeto go straight to sump in display? Or it needs to go to one of my coral/invert QT bins for the 16 day period? Then move to display?

 

[4FordFamily]

Ok @Humblefish I'm not trying to wear you out with this... Bought some chaeto today, chart says 16days. Then dip. My newly set up display is fishless, everything in it is on day 41. Waiting till day 76 to add fish. Can chaeto go straight to sump in display? Or it needs to go to one of my coral/invert QT bins for the 16 day period? Then move to display?

Rinse with DT water then display! (Let’s see what Humble says though)

 

[Brew12]

Ok @Humblefish I'm not trying to wear you out with this... Bought some chaeto today, chart says 16days. Then dip. My newly set up display is fishless, everything in it is on day 41. Waiting till day 76 to add fish. Can chaeto go straight to sump in display? Or it needs to go to one of my coral/invert QT bins for the 16 day period? Then move to display?

I would put it in a bucket of warm salt water for at least a day or two. Rinse it really well before you put it in the bucket and again before you move it into the sump.

It's not as bulletproof as waiting the 16 days for free swimming velvet to die off but the odds are in your favor.

 

[4FordFamily]

I would put it in a bucket of warm salt water for at least a day or two. Rinse it really well before you put it in the bucket and again before you move it into the sump.

It's not as bulletproof as waiting the 16 days for free swimming velvet to die off but the odds are in your favor.

His tank won’t have fish for 35 more days, so what he’s saying is can he just toss it in the sump and it’ll count as 16 days (x2)?

His DT is his coral quarantine right now as his fish are about 35-45 days from being out of quarantine

 

[Brew12]

His tank won’t have fish for 35 more days, so what he’s saying is can he just toss it in the sump and it’ll count as 16 days (x2)?

His DT is his coral quarantine right now as his fish are about 35-45 days from being out of quarantine

;Facepalm

Ok, I'm with ya. Yup, no problem putting it in his sump. Even if he brings in some free swimmers they will be long dead before fish go back in.

 

[HotRocks]

Yep

;Facepalm

Ok, I'm with ya. Yup, no problem putting it in his sump. Even if he brings in some free swimmers they will be long dead before fish go back in.

Thanks! Only thing in DT is live rock, coral, nems, urchins, and 1 star!

 

[Humblefish]

Ok @Humblefish I'm not trying to wear you out with this... Bought some chaeto today, chart says 16days. Then dip. My newly set up display is fishless, everything in it is on day 41. Waiting till day 76 to add fish. Can chaeto go straight to sump in display? Or it needs to go to one of my coral/invert QT bins for the 16 day period? Then move to display?

If the chaeto contains pods (most will), I would give it a 10 min bath using CoralRx or Bayer to kill all the pods. Rinse well (make sure no dead pods are still in it) and then place in your DT sump. That will eliminate the possible threat of tomonts being encysted upon an amphipod/copepod's exoskeleton. If a tomont were to make it's way into your DT, the 76 day fishless period would need to start over. ;Sour

 

[HotRocks]

If the chaeto contains pods (most will), I would give it a 10 min bath using CoralRx or Bayer to kill all the pods. Rinse well (make sure no dead pods are still in it) and then place in your DT sump. That will eliminate the possible threat of tomonts being encysted upon an amphipod/copepod's exoskeleton. If a tomont were to make it's way into your DT, the 76 day fishless period would need to start over. ;Sour

Safest bet, put it in its own 76 day QT. It's full of pods. I mean full!