Coral Newbie

[Lynchcon]

Hi Folks,

So I've had a Red Sea Max 130 up and running for 6 months - retro fit with pump upgrade, steves LEDS and Tunze 9001 skimmer. Have a Yellow Tang, 2 Clowns, Peacock Wrasse and a Chromis, together with a CUC weighted towards Red Leg Hermits (love those guys) and a Fire Shrimp.

My tank parameters are all normal. Bit high on Nitrates but still < 10ppm and Calc a bit low 350 ppm but dosing to increase.

I've delayed introducing corals coz I've had a heck of a time with GHA, Cyano and Diatoms... still battling but I got fed up waiting so I got my first corals today... Yay!

I introduced an Acan, Zoa and Hammer today.. see pics.

What I would like help with is placement of corals and tips to help em grow quick... appreciate any advice..

Many Tanks (get it! )
C

 

[Brad Miller]

Without a par meter.....
Start with your lights at low power so the coral can get used to them....did you get them from a grower that used leds ?
If not...it may take a while for them to adapt to the leds.

Place them low in the tank and adjust lights and placement as needed by observing them.
Those coral are considered low light ones so placement will be the bottom and the hammer would be middle or so.

For having no coral, your calcium is pretty low to start...check the salt your using and figure out why it’s low.

You shouldn’t have to dose for anything at all until the coral get bigger and water changes alone aren’t enough to supply them with the Mag, Alk and calc they need, then you start dosing for their uptake amounts.

 

[Lynchcon]

Thanks Brad... got the corals from LFS which uses LEDs....I already glued the Acan mid column. But I increased the ramp time on LEDs to 3 hrs to give them a little less time under the daylight. Didnt adjust intensity though.

I put the Hammer low coz I read they like low water movement.... intend to move it up when it grows/ settles.. is that ok?

I get my SW from LFS and Calc has been dropping so something is using it up?

Appreciate the help. Thanks

 

[Brad Miller]

My hammer loves flow and lets me know when he’s not happy
Did you by chance test the LFS water before putting it in your tank ?
What are your water parameters....with no coral, the need to use calcium is non existent

 

[ScottR]

Thanks Brad... got the corals from LFS which uses LEDs....I already glued the Acan mid column. But I increased the ramp time on LEDs to 3 hrs to give them a little less time under the daylight. Didnt adjust intensity though.

I put the Hammer low coz I read they like low water movement.... intend to move it up when it grows/ settles.. is that ok?

I get my SW from LFS and Calc has been dropping so something is using it up?

Appreciate the help. Thanks

Hammers should get really good flow IMO. All euphyllia. In the wild, they get blasted with flow. When we say low flow in our tanks, that usually equates to dead zones. Also, hammers will tolerate way more light than zoas and acans.

 

[Lynchcon]

My hammer loves flow and lets me know when he’s not happy
Did you by chance test the LFS water before putting it in your tank ?
What are your water parameters....with no coral, the need to use calcium is non existent

The LFS told me Hammers can split if flow too high. But separately; your not the first to question LFS water. Experienced reefer nearby told me it was crap so maybe that's some of my problems. Will start mixing my own. Thank again

 

[King Turkey]

they look good to me just keep an eye on parameters. phosphate nitrates along with calcium alk and mg. the hammer will not fully extend if the flow is bothering it. light wise lower light is better than high light. to high light kills corals much faster than low.

 

[Lynchcon]

Thanks Crancore. I set the LEDS to the standard Steve's Leds guide they give you. Think its about 30% intensity at daylight. I don't have a PAR meter though. I know they go up to 40000k so that probably 12000 set at now.

Should I lower it to allow them acclimatise?

 

[King Turkey]

Thanks Crancore. I set the LEDS to the standard Steve's Leds guide they give you. Think its about 30% intensity at daylight. I don't have a PAR meter though. I know they go up to 40000k so that probably 12000 set at now.

Should I lower it to allow them acclimatise?

nah they should be fine if they have been in the spot all day they are good. if you latterly just put them in maybe but when I introduced my hammer I just sorta plopped him in and let the light shine. maybe I was lucky. honestly though they look fine. dimensions of tank? how high is the light?

 

[ScottR]

they look good to me just keep an eye on parameters. phosphate nitrates along with calcium alk and mg. the hammer will not fully extend if the flow is bothering it. light wise lower light is better than high light. to high light kills corals much faster than low.

To be honest, hammers (and euphyllia) probably tolerate the most light out of all LPS. Higher flow won’t kill it, unless you’re blasting it. Euphyllia need good movement. To put acans and zoas higher up than a hammer isn’t a good idea. Typically acans sit on the bottom. Zoas can be put basically anywhere, usually towards the bottom or mid part of tank. You want to plan carefully as, when you add more corals, you’ll want everything to be in the right place so you are not putting things in random spots.

 

[King Turkey]

To be honest, hammers (and euphyllia) probably tolerate the most light out of all LPS. Higher flow won’t kill it, unless you’re blasting it. Euphyllia need good movement. To put acans and zoas higher up than a hammer isn’t a good idea. Typically acans sit on the bottom. Zoas can be put basically anywhere, usually towards the bottom or mid part of tank. You want to plan carefully as, when you add more corals, you’ll want everything to be in the right place so you are not putting things in random spots.

thanks for the reply to my comment its not my post though. good luck with coral placement but I think he is fine at the moment. This is a new coral he just glued after all. don't make it to complicated. remember to sit back relax and enjoy the tank. =]

 

[ScottR]

thanks for the reply to my comment its not my post though. good luck with coral placement but I think he is fine at the moment. This is a new coral he just glued after all. don't make it to complicated. remember to sit back relax and enjoy the tank. =]

Just trying to make sure the OP is given solid advice. Corals can always be plucked and glued back. I’ve killed my fair share of hammers so this is coming from experience. Euphyllia corals require a good pulsating flow to remove detritus build up or they get bacterial infections and can die.

 

[Lynchcon]

Thanks guys. I will move the hammer up once he settles in and will reconsider scan position as I do expect to get more corals... Really appreciate all the advice.

 

[ScottR]

Thanks guys. I will move the hammer up once he settles in and will reconsider scan position as I do expect to get more corals... Really appreciate all the advice.

Btw. I wouldn’t keep a hammer in the sand as the sand may get trapped in its tentacles and bother it and it’ll jump off a cliff.

 

[Auquanut]

I agree with ScottR about being able to move the corals. I personally would consider moving the acan to the bottom left portion of the tank. My acans don't like high light. Also, If possible, you might consider making your own water. It might help with your algae problems, and will definitely give you piece of mind.

 

[Lynchcon]

Thanks Auquanut. Should I let the Acan settle and then move him in time or is it ok to just pop him off and re-glue now?

I just did the sums and it's cheaper to mix my own water too.

 

[ScottR]

Thanks Auquanut. Should I let the Acan settle and then move him in time or is it ok to just pop him off and re-glue now?

I just did the sums and it's cheaper to mix my own water too.

Move it down anytime.

 

[Auquanut]

^ +1. What he said.