Coral problem.

[Bradley Crocker]

Do you know what could have caused the initial crash? Anemones can definitely nuke a tank when they die, but a few solid water changes would have rid the system of that... Especially from 8 months ago.

 

[TinaMarie026]

Do you know what could have caused the initial crash? Anemones can definitely nuke a tank when they die, but a few solid water changes would have rid the system of that... Especially from 8 months ago.

I agree, I would have thought things would have gotten back to normal by now. Not sure what happened in the beginning. I added a mini protein skimmer and a tube worm. That died and then a turbo snail died and rotted. I didn't see it. Then a chain reaction with about 20 anemone's. Nothing but fish live now. Even snails and shrimp die in a day.

 

[Bradley Crocker]

Well, my suggestion would be to get new test kits, unless yours are not expired. You don't have to go all out, just the basics (nh3+4, no3, no4, ph and kh) and I'd say a copper test kit as well. I don't see an algae problem, so I wouldn't suspect high phosphate, but you should check it too, if able. And test and record everything you can and let us know what you see. If this isn't an option, have at least 2 lfs test these things and have them write them down. If they differ from each other, go to a third.

What are you using for salinity, a hygrometer or a refractometer? Either may need to be calibrated/replaced and specific gravity rechecked. Your lfs should be able to check and calibrate a refractometer if that's what you use.

I may get a little grief for saying this, but I don't know what other chemicals to test for that would be safe for fish use only....because....I don't quarantine! [emoji17] There. I said it. But maybe someone else here does know. I do know most fish are more tolerant of water conditions than inverts, but something would need to be way off to wipe out every invert within 24 hrs of introduction.

The only other thing I can think of is inadvertent (or possibly malicious) poisoning. Make sure nothing is being added yo the water without you knowing. You say it's in your kitchen, right? Do you spray any cleaning products on or near the tank? An air freshener maybe?

Is all your plumbing made from reef safe, or food grade and chemically inert materials? I ask because you mentioned stainless steel pipes were replaced with pvc.

There's a lot if things that could be at play here, but let's weed out the water quality possibilities first as they're the most likely culprit and simplest to remedy.

Wow. That was long winded...sorry.

 

[TinaMarie026]

Well, my suggestion would be to get new test kits, unless yours are not expired. You don't have to go all out, just the basics (nh3+4, no3, no4, ph and kh) and I'd say a copper test kit as well. I don't see an algae problem, so I wouldn't suspect high phosphate, but you should check it too, if able. And test and record everything you can and let us know what you see. If this isn't an option, have at least 2 lfs test these things and have them write them down. If they differ from each other, go to a third.

What are you using for salinity, a hygrometer or a refractometer? Either may need to be calibrated/replaced and specific gravity rechecked. Your lfs should be able to check and calibrate a refractometer if that's what you use.

I may get a little grief for saying this, but I don't know what other chemicals to test for that would be safe for fish use only....because....I don't quarantine! [emoji17] There. I said it. But maybe someone else here does know. I do know most fish are more tolerant of water conditions than inverts, but something would need to be way off to wipe out every invert within 24 hrs of introduction.

The only other thing I can think of is inadvertent (or possibly malicious) poisoning. Make sure nothing is being added yo the water without you knowing. You say it's in your kitchen, right? Do you spray any cleaning products on or near the tank? An air freshener maybe?

Is all your plumbing made from reef safe, or food grade and chemically inert materials? I ask because you mentioned stainless steel pipes were replaced with pvc.

There's a lot if things that could be at play here, but let's weed out the water quality possibilities first as they're the most likely culprit and simplest to remedy.

Wow. That was long winded...sorry.

Thank you for the reply. I will get some new test kits and see and document my results. What brand do you recommend ? I have been using API.
I am using a Hydrometer to check my salt. I has been matching the results I get from the LFS. One used a refractometer I think.
One thing that I have been suspecting but was told was OK was the hose I used to hook up my chiller. I used. Hilton PVC reinforced hose. I was told that would be fine. I have about 50' of hose in the loop.

my Chiller is in another room.
Like you said, it must be a major problem for my invertebrates to die in a day. I can't believe I can't find it. I will keep trying.
It has been suggested I start over with all new live rick and substrate. :-(

 

[TinaMarie026]

Thank you for the reply. I will get some new test kits and see and document my results. What brand do you recommend ? I have been using API.
I am using a Hydrometer to check my salt. I has been matching the results I get from the LFS. One used a refractometer.
One thing that I have been suspecting but was told was OK was the hose I used to hook up my chiller. I used. Hilton PVC reinforced hose. I was told that would be fine. I have about 50' of hose in the loop.

my Chiller is in another room.
Like you said, it must be a major problem for my invertebrates to die in a day. I can't believe I can't find it. I will keep trying.
It has been suggested I start over with all new live rick and substrate. :-(

 

[TinaMarie026]

Sorry about the double posts. I can't figure out how to delete a mistake. Lol

 

[TinaMarie026]

Thank you for the reply. I will get some new test kits and see and document my results. What brand do you recommend ? I have been using API.
I am using a Hydrometer to check my salt. I has been matching the results I get from the LFS. One used a refractometer I think.
One thing that I have been suspecting but was told was OK was the hose I used to hook up my chiller. I used. Hilton PVC reinforced hose. I was told that would be fine. I have about 50' of hose in the loop.

my Chiller is in another room.
Like you said, it must be a major problem for my invertebrates to die in a day. I can't believe I can't find it. I will keep trying.
It has been suggested I start over with all new live rock and substrate. :-(

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

For some reason I wasn't getting notifications in the thread.

From what Im reading, it could be a couple of things.
It sounds like a pretty large bio load in the tank. On thing to consider there is the amount of oxygen they use. animals AND bacteria. In such a small water vol it possible once ammoina was introduced it knocked out the o2.
Its also possible the turbo poison or the nem poison did the same in that small vol. The last least likely is hydrogen sulfide. Its produced by bacteria with not enough oxygen basicly. Most often its noticed by a rotten egg smell.

Like you said, it must be a major problem for my invertebrates to die in a day. I can't believe I can't find it. I will keep trying.

that's the oddest thing. Most often its copper or pesticides that do that.

 

[TinaMarie026]

Oh, forgot to mention we keep all cleaners away from the tank.
Wouldn't the oxygen be back to normal by now? I had the eater checked for copper at one point and that was negative.

 

[Bradley Crocker]

For some reason I wasn't getting notifications in the thread.

From what Im reading, it could be a couple of things.
It sounds like a pretty large bio load in the tank. On thing to consider there is the amount of oxygen they use. animals AND bacteria. In such a small water vol it possible once ammoina was introduced it knocked out the o2.
Its also possible the turbo poison or the nem poison did the same in that small vol. The last least likely is hydrogen sulfide. Its produced by bacteria with not enough oxygen basicly. Most often its noticed by a rotten egg smell.


that's the oddest thing. Most often its copper or pesticides that do that.

All this breathing that I'm doing, and not once did oxygen cross my mind! Good thinking!

There isn't a practical way to check dissolved oxygen that I know of, but an air stone is a cheap and easy way to make sure that it's not an issue.

Hydrogen sulfide is definitely a possibility. The sand looks a little deep in areas, which would give the anaerobic bacteria a prime environment.

 

[Bradley Crocker]

I use red sea kits, but api is good as well and they definitely hit the mark on price. Another well trusted option is salifert.

 

[TinaMarie026]

All this breathing that I'm doing, and not once did oxygen cross my mind! Good thinking!

There isn't a practical way to check dissolved oxygen that I know of, but an air stone is a cheap and easy way to make sure that it's not an issue.

Hydrogen sulfide is definitely a possibility. The sand looks a little deep in areas, which would give the anaerobic bacteria a prime environment.

I don't have an air pump. Just my filter,protein skimmer, and my power head to get air into the water. Could the protein skimmer have delegated o2?

 

[Bradley Crocker]

I forgot you said you had a skimmer, that should be sufficient for aeration. It's still an option to keep in mind though.

And your chiller's tubing should be fine. You're definitely not the only one using it, or something similar.

 

[Frop]

I'm kind of curious because of saltyfilmfolks comment about copper. Is all your equipment new, or was some/all of it used? You can never rid a system entirely of the stuff once it's been in there.

If the lfs is saying your water is ok, I would be highly suspect of copper use, or any other fish only medications, especially if you purchased the system used.

Maybe there was a fish added with pet store water being poured into the tank?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I don't have an air pump. Just my filter,protein skimmer, and my power head to get air into the water. Could the protein skimmer have delegated o2?

your correct though. At some point air should have come back in. And you've done water changes. Salinity is done with a refractometer, you've had a lfs confirm it>

 

[TinaMarie026]

OK. I will get new test kits for my eater and document my results. I'll get that in a few days and post. Thanks everyone!

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

OK. I will get new test kits for my eater and document my results. I'll get that in a few days and post. Thanks everyone!

Very good. Lest us know and tag me @saltyfilmfolks too. We can have the reefsquad take a look too. Im hoping its just one of those things were overlooking, or a bad test etc... Good luck.

 

[Bradley Crocker]

OK. I will get new test kits for my eater and document my results. I'll get that in a few days and post. Thanks everyone!

I don't know if this will help you choose a test kit or not, but it may be helpful. They do a quick run down of 5 or so manufacturers and list out the pros and cons of each.

Good luck. We'll be waiting.

 

[nl5882]

I'm leaning toward high po4s or possibly rusted impeller of some sort. I wouldnt rely on anything except hanna test for it. I don't see any coraline algea for a tank that old.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I'm leaning toward high po4s or possibly rusted impeller of some sort. I wouldnt rely on anything except hanna test for it. I don't see any coraline algea for a tank that old.

Good thinking on metal. But our tests wont show that.