Coral

[couragefirst]

First is your salinity is high if it is 1.030 SG. Some corals won't care some will depending on how well they acclimate. PO4 of .25 mg/l is ok (some corals are great at much higher levels) but .3 mg/l is the highest corals might see in the wild. .03 is the minimum. I don't worry much about nitrate except to keep it low however seeing it at 0 with PO4 at .25 suggests a nutrient imbalance. Your lighing may not be sufficient for some of your corals, I'd suggest finding a local reef aquarist to maybe look at your system. Here's an article on establishing healthy microbiomes:

Establishing a Healthy Microbiome in a New Aquarium Using Live Rock

About this article This article describes an experiment documenting the effects of live rock in a newly established aquarium. While I’ve tried to tell the story as briefly as I can, it’s the story of a month-long study of replicated tanks, with analysis of both water chemistry and the microbial...

www.reef2reef.com

Sorry my salinity is 1.025 to 1.026 and has been stable now for a few weeks. The lighting is something that I am considering changing would you have any recommendations for a tank of my size

 

[couragefirst]

0 nitrate. Starving.

Thank you I have read to keep this as low as possible is this not the case and how you'd you suggest raising it as I am applying coral food on a weekly basis

 

[Cell]

Increase nutrients or decrease export. Feeding more is an option, but if your nitrate and PO4 measurements are correct, you may be better off dosing something like ammonium chloride or sodium nitrate or you could use a product like NeoNitrate which costs more but may be easier to obtain for some.

 

[VintageReefer]

Increase nutrients or decrease export. Feeding more is an option, but if your nitrate and PO4 measurements are correct, you may be better off dosing something like ammonium chloride or sodium nitrate or you could use a product like NeoNitrate which costs more but may be easier to obtain for some.

Agree - neonitrate is an easy to measure way to add nitrates

 

[couragefirst]

Agree - neonitrate is an easy to measure way to add nitrates

Thank you for the advice I will try the neo nitrate

 

[vetteguy53081]

Good morning
I have a tank thats approx 6 months old and have struggled to keep any coral alive for more than 48 hours from purchase.

Having had all the water tested and it is correct but have no idea whats causing this problem.

I was advised soft coral was a good start. Any advice would be appreciated.

Paul

Elevate all these corals and in path of moderate to medium water flow

 

[Glowurm]

A fellow Brit!!!

First off a 25% water change seems like an overkill, its probably the cause of the low nutrient levels in the tank. I dont think you need to add chemicals to the tank, just increase the level of feeding first, look for some natural solutions to the problem because messing with the chemistry could result in issues you have not anticipated.

Stability is key, so try to avoid swings in salinity, temp, changes in lighting etc.

Out of interest why you heating up the water for your ATO (or rather the top off water). Just how much are you adding that it needs to be warmed up? I ask because i've yet to get an ATO (work from home so no issue topping off) but even in the summer i'm probably only loosing 3l in a system which is more than double the size of yours.

 

[couragefirst]

A fellow Brit!!!

First off a 25% water change seems like an overkill, its probably the cause of the low nutrient levels in the tank. I dont think you need to add chemicals to the tank, just increase the level of feeding first, look for some natural solutions to the problem because messing with the chemistry could result in issues you have not anticipated.

Stability is key, so try to avoid swings in salinity, temp, changes in lighting etc.

Out of interest why you heating up the water for your ATO (or rather the top off water). Just how much are you adding that it needs to be warmed up? I ask because i've yet to get an ATO (work from home so no issue topping off) but even in the summer i'm probably only loosing 3l in a system which is more than double the size of yours.

Well firstly thank you for the message and hello fellow Brit. I am very new and seeked advice on weekly water changes which 25% was what was recommended. I warm the water up for top ups and change as its stored in barrels in the garage. I was looked into this as varying temperatures can shock fish etc so wanted to keep it stable. I only top up maybe twice a week with maybe 3-5 liters of ROI

 

[Glowurm]

Well firstly thank you for the message and hello fellow Brit. I am very new and seeked advice on weekly water changes which 25% was what was recommended. I warm the water up for top ups and change as its stored in barrels in the garage. I was looked into this as varying temperatures can shock fish etc so wanted to keep it stable. I only top up maybe twice a week with maybe 3-5 liters of ROI

Mmm i'd cut those water changes down to like 10% mate, changing such a large water volume is probably a cause of your nutrient issues (or lack of them). LFS probably told you to do 25% because it equates to a 25l barrel of water but that amount probably isn't helping with stability.

Personally i wouldn't worry about the temperature difference for the top up water but i would look into an ATO as this will help you achieve better stability in your salinity levels.

Edit - In regards to water changes you probably want to monitor your parameters get a sense of how dirty or clean the tank gets and adjust accordingly, but my gut tells me 25% is on the high side.

 

[couragefirst]

Mmm i'd cut those water changes down to like 10% mate, changing such a large water volume is probably a cause of your nutrient issues (or lack of them). LFS probably told you to do 25% because it equates to a 25l barrel of water but that amount probably isn't helping with stability.

Personally i wouldn't worry about the temperature difference for the top up water but i would look into an ATO as this will help you achieve better stability in your salinity levels.

You are possibly right with the barrel size. But would you agree that the water changes would be better heated. I will drop it down to 10% to see if levels increase on Nitrate as I assume that's what you are referring too. What would you deem a good levels as mine are now:
Ammonia 0
Calcium 420
KH 12
Nitrate 5.0
Nitrite 0
PH 7.9
Phosphate 0.30
Salinity 1.026

 

[Glowurm]

You are possibly right with the barrel size. But would you agree that the water changes would be better heated. I will drop it down to 10% to see if levels increase on Nitrate as I assume that's what you are referring too. What would you deem a good levels as mine are now:
Ammonia 0
Calcium 420
KH 12
Nitrate 5.0
Nitrite 0
PH 7.9
Phosphate 0.30
Salinity 1.026

No 100% heat the water if your marking a 10% change, perhaps there is some logic to heating the top off if your only topping off twice a week (as its akin to a 5% top off.

But i would look into an ATO, if you can only manage it twice weekly then your allowing the tank salinity to fluctuate. Also might be worth hiring a par meter (google par meter hire) to check the light levels in the tank, only need to do it once but it will answer the question of whether or not the light is fit for use before you go out and replace it. Costed me £25 which i think is money well spent in the long run as i've got map now of where i can and cant place types of coral.

TBH your levels look okay, nothing crazy, but i would aim for stability.

 

[couragefirst]

No 100% heat the water if your marking a 10% change, perhaps there is some logic to heating the top off if your only topping off twice a week (as its akin to a 5% top off.

But i would look into an ATO, if you can only manage it twice weekly then your allowing the tank salinity to fluctuate. Also might be worth hiring a par meter (google par meter hire) to check the light levels in the tank, only need to do it once but it will answer the question of whether or not the light is fit for use before you go out and replace it. Costed me £25 which i think is money well spent in the long run as i've got map now of where i can and cant place types of coral.

TBH your levels look okay, nothing crazy, but i would aim for stability.

Many thanks I only top up when the water level evaporates so depends on when and how much to top up. I do like the idea of the par meter as if it gives you a map then great as shops say you can put coral anywhere which isn't quite right.

I did think my levels were okay and seem quite stable but nice to have a second pinion. If I was to replace my lighting what would you recommend ? I am think of one that has the capability to get lighter and darker as the day goes on but unsure of what good looks like

 

[Timfish]

Sorry my salinity is 1.025 to 1.026 and has been stable now for a few weeks. The lighting is something that I am considering changing would you have any recommendations for a tank of my size

Popbloom if you want economical or Kessil if prices isn't a consideration. Shoot for 100 PAR on the sand. A fixture that will be brighter is fine but 100 PAR on the sand seems to work well for most corals on many tanks.

 

[couragefirst]

Thank you for the advice Kessil 100 PAR

 

[GlassMunky]

Increase nutrients or decrease export. Feeding more is an option, but if your nitrate and PO4 measurements are correct, you may be better off dosing something like ammonium chloride or sodium nitrate or you could use a product like NeoNitrate which costs more but may be easier to obtain for some.

Recommending things like this to a brand new reefer who doesn’t fully understand what or why is a recipe for disaster.
People really need to stop recommending everyone dose ammonia and nitrates.

Especially newer reefers.

OP, please ignore these types of suggestions

 

[GlassMunky]

I dont think you need to add chemicals to the tank, just increase the level of feeding first, look for some natural solutions to the problem because messing with the chemistry could result in issues you have not anticipated.

Stability is key, so try to avoid swings in salinity, temp, changes in lighting etc.

Agree with this 1000%

 

[GlassMunky]

You are possibly right with the barrel size. But would you agree that the water changes would be better heated. I will drop it down to 10% to see if levels increase on Nitrate as I assume that's what you are referring too. What would you deem a good levels as mine are now:
Ammonia 0
Calcium 420
KH 12
Nitrate 5.0
Nitrite 0
PH 7.9
Phosphate 0.30
Salinity 1.026

You ALK (KH) was 10 earlier in this thread now it’s 12?

What have you added to the tank to make it raise?
Alkalinity that high (and rising) is def not a good thing and should be addressed.

 

[Cell]

Increase nutrients or decrease export. Feeding more is an option, but if your nitrate and PO4 measurements are correct, you may be better off dosing something like ammonium chloride or sodium nitrate or you could use a product like NeoNitrate which costs more but may be easier to obtain for some.

Recommending things like this to a brand new reefer who doesn’t fully understand what or why is a recipe for disaster.
People really need to stop recommending everyone dose ammonia and nitrates.

Especially newer reefers.

OP, please ignore these types of suggestions

I understand your sentiment and while generally true you really picked the wrong post to make your example.

The OP has dying softies, 0 nitrate and 0.25 phosphate.

Feeding more is the easiest method to increase nitrate. In this case, we probably don't want to increase phosphate so we need to increase nitrate alone. The easiest method to do that is dose some nitrate. This isn't suggesting some exotic "proprietary blend" miracle product. Notice I also added the caveat, "if measurements are correct".

 

[GlassMunky]

I understand your sentiment and while generally true you really picked the wrong post to make your example.

The OP has dying softies, 0 nitrate and 0.25 phosphate.

Feeding more is the easiest method to increase nitrate. In this case, we probably don't want to increase phosphate so we need to increase nitrate alone. The easiest method to do that is dose some nitrate. This isn't suggesting some exotic "proprietary blend" miracle product. Notice I also added the caveat, "if measurements are correct".

Fully disagree.
It’s NEVER a good idea to suggest to new reefers who don’t understand the chemistry of our tanks very well to start dosing random things.
If they can’t understand what they are dosing and why and how that’s going to effect their tank they shouldn’t do it.

Nutrient dosing is an advanced technique
And FAR FAR too many people here advocate it as the first thing new reefers do.

 

[VintageReefer]

The op corals are photosynthetic and while yes they do need some phosphate and nitrate you could literally bring them home from the LFS, put them in a bucket of brand new clean sw, give them proper light and flow, and they will last longer than 2 days