Coralfarm biological filtration

Fant4 · Mar 30, 2012

Hi,
I have 2 tanks 100"x40"x16" for a total of 600 gallon. And wanna make a SPS / LPS propagation coral frags system.
I wanted to know what you think is the best way for biological filtration and removal of nitrates? I don't want to use the DSB for an easier and faster maintenance of the tank. Currently I have only a 1 centimeter of sand and nothing else. I put 100 pounds of live rocks in sump, is enough?... or should I make something else for the biological filtration?

System have 5 months old and have NO3 30 PO4 0

Thanks and sorry for my english.

CTMarinelife · Mar 30, 2012

Cool set-up, I think your options are a remote DSB using 5 gal buckets or a media reactor with bio-pellets!

Fant4 · Mar 30, 2012

Biopellets really works??? In italy no many people use it... How much ml i need to use and flow rate???

For RDSB a 5 gal buckets is enough for my system?

CTMarinelife · Mar 30, 2012

I have used the Warner Marine EcoBak pellets and I recommend them, DSB buckets can be daisy chained so are easy to add if you test high levels.

beaslbob · Mar 30, 2012

your english is fine and better then mine.

I would use macro algaes in a refugium.

But that's just my .02

cdness · Mar 30, 2012

I would reccommend setting up another tank as a DSB/Live rock tank then add one more for macro. 40 breeders would work and are honestly super cheap stateside. You could also use a plastic barrel or feeding trough depending on what you have access to. Keep it easy though or maintenance will suffer.

Fant4 · Mar 30, 2012

cdness i don't understand sorry. What i have to do? Another tank for dsb o macro algae? 40 breeders is?

illcssd · Mar 30, 2012

36" x 18" x 16"

cdness · Mar 30, 2012

40 gallon breeder aquariums. Specific dimensions as mentioned above. Use two of them. One for a Deep Sandbed and one for a fuge with macroalgaes growing. This will help with your Nitrate issues. Also you could add more rock in one to add to the biological filtration of the live rock in the sump.

Fant4 · Apr 4, 2012

But if i remove all live rocks (i think my nitrate problem is for detritus in live rock) and use a biopellets reactor, i have read that all bacteria live in this biological support (pellets).... can work?

robert · Apr 7, 2012

Hi Fant,

I've had a couple of frag systems going for a while - one is about 50 gallons (60"x16"x12"),and is tied to my main display and the other is about 120 gallons (96"x24"12") and is free-standing with its own sump.

If found its best not to put any substrate in the frag tanks. I use egg-crate elevated to about mid-depth to place my corals and plugs on. I keep the area under the egg-crate as clear as possible and wash this area (beneath the egg-crate) with heavy flow. This prevents any detritus from accumulating anywhere on the bottom. You don't want the egg-crate to go wall to wall, cut the egg-crate into panels with enough room to push them around should you need to reach the bottom or clean the sides. Working with less water over your corals is much easier and you clean up crew can get access to the undersides of your plugs. Get your flow and clean-up crew right, and there should be little or no maintenance in the propagation tanks.

I think 100 lbs of live rock in the sump is ample for nitrification and since your not letting detritus accumulate anywhere nitrates shouldn't ever become much of an issue - what you actually may find is that your tanks are too clean for optimal growth. (depending on what your raising). Water changes will take care it.

If for some reason you do build up nitrates (or phosphates), a small sulphur denitrator running in a 5 gallon water jug would be more than enough to take care of your entire system. Its a little unconventional but I've been running one on my main display and 50 gal frag tank for a couple of years with no need for dosing, next to zero maintenance, no chance for bacterial blooms and no cycle spikes.