Corals always dying, HELP!

krenzcendo · Jul 25, 2019

Hi Reef2Reef,

I'm relatively new to aquarium keeping, I bought a JBJ 45 gallon tank 8 months ago and have never been able to keep corals alive more than 4 months. I started with 3 Euphillias, thought everything was cool for 3 months, then had 2 peter away into nothingness. I realized I had a problem and assumed it was my water temps hitting 81.5 at times. I bought a fan and thought the issue was resolved. Then I bought a mushroom, a torch, and a small plate of assorted corals. I just this week had my last remaining original Euphillia die and realized its probably not the temperature messing this all up. Please help me fix this so nothing else dies!

JBJ RL-45
Current USA Orbit LED Light https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GFTNG3S
1 Jebao OW-25 set to medium high
Temperature controller, heater fan
Protein skimmer, filter socks, filter floss, IM media reactor with Dr Tim's NP-Active Pearls, everything cleaned regularly
RODI water and Instant Ocean salt

8 small clownfish and small assortment of snails and crabs. 5 gallon water changes approx 3 times a month.

Measured water parameters today and these are typical number I see:

Temp 78.2
Salinity 1.024??
dKH 8
Calcium 380
Ammonia 0.125
pH 8.3
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5
Phosphate 0

I question the salinity because the hydrometer I use never seems to agree on what the salinity actually is. I ordered a real refractometer today... Maybe this is all because I can't read the salinity correctly idk..

The test tubes picture is me trying to read Ph. I actually tested 5 vials out of frustration. Two were yellow, three purple. Yellow = 7.4 pH purple being ~8.2-8.4.

There was a few weeks when the temperature got around 81.5 before I could get a fan. Tank is always between 77-78.5 now.

Does anybody have any opinions on what is going wrong here? I'm leaning my API test kit is awful and screwing me over, but idk it could be my moderately weak lighting, I really have no clue. Please help me out here guys I really want to do this right and figure out what's going wrong. Thank you thank you.

infinityends · Jul 26, 2019

The high temps probably didn't help anything.

Sounds like you are learning some of the annoying new hobbyist lessons about some of the testing supplies available at the large retail pet stores.

Make sure you pick up some refractometer calibration fluid as well. They don't come pre-calibrated, and can be knocked out of calibration pretty easily if it is bumped. But low salinity could definitely be a problem, I've ran into that in the past where my salinity was around 1.022 (out of calibration refractometer), corals slowly dwindled.

As for the API tests, someone else would have to weigh in on exactly how accurate they are. But just based on not seeing them ever referenced (compared to hanna, salifert, red sea) or even sold at most LFS. I would assume it is not giving a super accurate reading. The match to a color on the card tests are also just always kind of hard to gauge which shade is which.

As far as the light you mentioned, how high do you have it turned up? Admittedly, not having any experience with the light, it is hard to know if even having it on 100% brightness would be sufficient or not, although the corals you mentioned aren't the type that need excessive lighting. But considering the size of the tank and a quick glance at the amazon page, it wouldn't necessarily be my first guess, compared to potential salinity issues based on the other information you provided.

Hemmdog · Jul 26, 2019

Not enough light, low calcium. If the wavemaker is on constant coral wont like that either. A single wave maker also causes issues ime. I had a single mp10 for a long time in my 32biocube and couldn’t figure out the issues, adding flow on the other side and turning the intensity down helped a lot with random chaotic flow and my coral improved. Your light is the biggest issue here. If your salinity was a lot lower your alk and cal would be quite a bit lower as well.

maevepotter · Jul 26, 2019

Calcium is too low and the wave maker is on too high. I'm not sure about the lights you have, but you could try these lights.

KINGBO LED Aquarium Light Nano, 18W LED Aquarium Lighting Bulb with 6-Band Full Spectrum for Fish Tank Coral Reef Saltwater Tank Plants Growth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0PF72P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-lOoDbSSC206A

I have 3 over my 40b in a diy thing and it's working just fine.

krenzcendo · Jul 26, 2019

Hi infinity, thanks for the reply, I just bought refractometer calibration fluid.
I have no love for the API test kits, perhaps I'll buy the Red Sea Marine Care Multi test kit...

Hemmdog and Maeve,
Yea, I'm scared it could be the light too since from my research my current light is teetering on the edge of barely adequate. The internet is telling me AI Prime HD, AI Hydra 26, or Radeon Xr15 Pro are strong options. Thoughts? (I don't love the idea of spending $400 on a light right now but if this is a prime candidate for being the culprit I'll bite the bullet). The KINGBO looks cheap and I'm scared I wouldn't be confident it was working.

For pump, I did have it at 5 and the knob at full, I put it to 3 with the knob at 40%. I didn't have flow on my radar as being an issue because it never looked like any corals were being blown over. The movement of the corals has appeared modest in my opinion.

I dosed 2 cap fulls of Reef Complete to replenish the calcium and I'll stay on that till its ~450.

ScottB · Jul 26, 2019

One thing unmentioned so far -- but if accurate will certainly inhibit coral health -- 0 phosphates. Nitrates at 5 is fine, but corals won't live without measurable phosphates. Keeping PO4 in the .03 to .08 range is healthy. API kits are OK for nitrates IMO, but not much else. Certainly not PO4. Hanna is my preferred tool for phosphates. Amazon shows them for $50 now. If you are not ready to spring for that, ask your LFS if they can Hanna test PO4 for you.

Amazon.com: Hanna Instruments HI713 Phosphate Low Range Checker HC: Gateway

www.amazon.com

If you really are at 0 for PO4, the remedy is easy. Increase fish/coral food. Add more fish.

Frequent WC are a good habit IMO; I'd never discourage that, but cutting back a little will also raise tank nutrients.

I otherwise agree with what has been said so far -- stable salinity and alkalinity being most vital.

As to lights on a 45, you can do fine with a Hydra 26 or Radion 30. These are very powerful fixtures, so study up on the acclimation features so you don't broil your coral. Two Prime pucks would also work. I think a single Prime or even the XR15 will limit your options later (regarding SPS and coral placement.)

PS. Your cycle is over. Not much need to test ammonia and nitrite unless you have fish death.

Bayareareefer18 · Jul 26, 2019

I would also agree with lighting

I run the dual ic pros on my LPS dominant tank and they have done well but if I had to go it all over again I'd go a different route. (First tank as well) growth wasn't extremely fast so I did added some supplemental lighting. Could have just gone with better lights from the start.

Looking at par values it seems the orbit marine has some pretty low numbers and I'm sure these values are with all channes maxed out.

If you don't want to break the bank you may also consider a t5 hybrid fixture than you could add leds to as funds are available.

Could also go reefbrite or orphek as well. I run an orphek UV bar for color pop and am quite happy with the light.

Best advice would be not to buy another cheap light that you will just have to replace or upgrade later.

jtl · Jul 26, 2019

Check out Reefbreeders Photon V2+ as a good lighting option. I had excellent results with these lights.

krenzcendo · Jul 26, 2019

So elevating the calcium, lowering the flow, buying the Red Sea test kit, refratcometer for more accurate salinity, and buying the Ai Hydra 26 for light are the current ideas. Spending more than 400$ on lighting is not in the budget right now.

If I was to get 2 or 3 Hannah checkers which ones would be the most important? Phosphate?

SinCityRee4r · Jul 26, 2019

orbit is good for softies that’s it. I recommend new lighting. Ca is a little low but not earth shattering.

SinCityRee4r · Jul 26, 2019

krenzcendo said:
So elevating the calcium, lowering the flow, buying the Red Sea test kit, refratcometer for more accurate salinity, and buying the Ai Hydra 26 for light are the current ideas. Spending more than 400$ on lighting is not in the budget right now.

If I was to get 2 or 3 Hannah checkers which ones would be the most important? Phosphate?

you will have more success with a cheap black box fixture than the orbit you have.

krenzcendo · Jul 27, 2019

Thanks for the advice guys, I bought the refractometer, the major salifert test kits, and brightwell microbacter to reduce ammonia and nitrates if I find they are higher than I think.

Perhaps new light can come once I’m confident the water parameters are stable and healthy.

Lukey2018 · May 1, 2021

krenzcendo said:
Thanks for the advice guys, I bought the refractometer, the major salifert test kits, and brightwell microbacter to reduce ammonia and nitrates if I find they are higher than I think.

Perhaps new light can come once I’m confident the water parameters are stable and healthy.

Hi! I realize this thread is a few years old, but I'm running into pretty much exact problem you had. I'm wondering how did it end up going? Did a new light fix everything?

MaxTremors · May 1, 2021

You’ve got a few issues. First the salinity (sounds like you’re on your way to fixing that). Second, Instant Ocean (the regular) isn’t great for keeping corals unless you add some additives (calcium is low). Third, API tests are not great, they can give you a rough idea of where your levels are, but beyond that they’re kind of worthless. Fourth, your light is really only powerful enough for soft corals. Fifth, the temperature going to 81.5 isn’t that big of a deal, its not ideal, but shouldn’t cause problems if it was that high for a few weeks (stability is more important).

I would try some hardy soft corals after you’ve sorted out said issues and only try some lps once you’ve kept some softies alive for six months (and gotten adequate lighting).

Deep · May 1, 2021

Lukey2018 said:
Hi! I realize this thread is a few years old, but I'm running into pretty much exact problem you had. I'm wondering how did it end up going? Did a new light fix everything?

if you really want an answer that will work for you , you should provide all the details about your tank, your parameters, what test kits you use, what corals you kept, how long etc..