Corals and fish

[manuel josephh]

Hey guys, I just got my first pair of clownfish and got a torch coral and a zoa. But my clownfishes aren’t moving around, they’re just swimming in the corner of my tank. Is this normal? And how long does it take for my torch coral to fully open up? Or did I just get a baby torch hahahahah

 

[olonmv]

You’re gonna have to post a few things first like parameters, age of tank n such. I’m assuming you went through the cycle already.

 

[manuel josephh]

You’re gonna have to post a few things first like parameters, age of tank n such. I’m assuming you went through the cycle already.

Tank is a month and a half old and fully cycled.

tank parameters
Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate 10ppm
PH 8.2

 

[kittenbritches]

Totally normal clown behavior.

Your torch may want more or less light and flow. I can't tell what either is like from your picture.

 

[olonmv]

Totally normal clown behavior.

Your torch may want more or less light and flow. I can't tell what either is like from your picture.

+1. My clown isn’t a swimmer and typically hangs out in his happy spot in my tank. I suggest getting phosphate alk ca and magnesium test kits since you’ve already dove into coral keeping. Alk CA are important parameters and a tank will thrive with these being kept stable. Your tank is really young and it’ll take a keen eye and patience in getting it past the “uglies”. Testing is gonna be something you’re gonna have to do until you get an idea on your tank needs.

 

[attiland]

+1 for clowns stick to one spot most of the time.
that torch may have too much flow on that spot. I would put it in a lower spot where at least one side is backed up by rocks

 

[manuel josephh]

+1. My clown isn’t a swimmer and typically hangs out in his happy spot in my tank. I suggest getting phosphate alk ca and magnesium test kits since you’ve already dove into coral keeping. Alk CA are important parameters and a tank will thrive with these being kept stable. Your tank is really young and it’ll take a keen eye and patience in getting it past the “uglies”. Testing is gonna be something you’re gonna have to do until you get an idea on your tank needs.

My CA are 430ppm but it’s hard to calculate alk. It’s hard to see the colour changing so I’m not sure what my alk is. I’m using salifert

 

[attiland]

My CA are 430ppm but it’s hard to calculate alk. It’s hard to see the colour changing so I’m not sure what my alk is. I’m using salifert

I love my Hanna checker for alk and phosphate and would recommend it for you too. No colour charts

 

[olonmv]

My CA are 430ppm but it’s hard to calculate alk. It’s hard to see the colour changing so I’m not sure what my alk is. I’m using salifert

Time to go with Hanna lol. Doin the color match game is why I went the Hanna route. I have one for pho’s alk and calcium.

I keep my torch just under mid tank with moderate flow (gently flowing)

 

[manuel josephh]

Totally normal clown behavior.

Your torch may want more or less light and flow. I can't tell what either is like from your picture.

Is it normal for them to not eat after introducing to my tank? I tried feeding them but they weren’t going for it. They just stayed in their corner

 

[olonmv]

How long has it been since introduced to your tank? Clowns are typically lil pigs. Mine gorges itself.

 

[kittenbritches]

Is it normal for them to not eat after introducing to my tank? I tried feeding them but they weren’t going for it. They just stayed in their corner

Did your quarantine first or add them straight to the display tank? And when you say you just got them, how many days or weeks has it been?

Also, what are you feeding them? Do you know what they were being fed prior to getting them? Are they juvenile clowns?

 

[manuel josephh]

Did your quarantine first or add them straight to the display tank? And when you say you just got them, how many days or weeks has it been?

Also, what are you feeding them? Do you know what they were being fed prior to getting them? Are they juvenile clowns?

I got from my LFS. I acclimated them for around 40 mins before adding them to the display tank. And I just got them today :/ I bought vitalis marine pellets and flakes. Oh and I forgot to mention that I’m a newbie reefer so this is actually my very first reef tank

 

[kittenbritches]

I got from my LFS. I acclimated them for around 40 mins before adding them to the display tank. And I just got them today :/ I bought vitalis marine pellets and flakes. Oh and I forgot to mention that I’m a newbie reefer so this is actually my very first reef tank

Okay. This is all super normal.

I would forget about the flakes. They muck up the water and clowns don't go to the surface for food.

The clowns need a little time to get used to their new home. What I did was pinch some pellets between my fingers and dip them into the tank water. When they smell the bit that starts to dissolve, they should come your way. Clownfish aren't geniuses, and I had the best luck dropping one or two pellets at a time right in front of their faces, and they would still miss them sometimes.

They just need 3-4 bites each.

If they are spitting the pellets out, they're likely too big. I bought mini pellets that work much better for little fish mouths.

Lastly, pick up some frozen mysis and offer that as well.

I wouldn't worry if they don't eat the first day or two. Keep an eye on them, and watch for spots, milky bodies, rubbing against rocks, or other signs of disease. And don't be surprised if they fall in love with a different corner in a few days.

 

[DeniseAndy]

You will learn as stated above, clowns are weird. It is normal for them to hang in one spot in a new tank. It takes them time to adapt to new system. Hopefully the LFS kept them in their own system since they are more than likely captive bred. If not, watch closely for any signs of disease. @kittenbritches stated what to look for nicely.

The torch is a more difficult guy to get happy. Make sure there is flow, but not too much direct. Medium area of tank is good for light normally. They also like to eat, so the frozen mysis will be good for them too.

Good luck!!!!

 

[manuel josephh]

Okay. This is all super normal.

I would forget about the flakes. They muck up the water and clowns don't go to the surface for food.

The clowns need a little time to get used to their new home. What I did was pinch some pellets between my fingers and dip them into the tank water. When they smell the bit that starts to dissolve, they should come your way. Clownfish aren't geniuses, and I had the best luck dropping one or two pellets at a time right in front of their faces, and they would still miss them sometimes.

They just need 3-4 bites each.

If they are spitting the pellets out, they're likely too big. I bought mini pellets that work much better for little fish mouths.

Lastly, pick up some frozen mysis and offer that as well.

I wouldn't worry if they don't eat the first day or two. Keep an eye on them, and watch for spots, milky bodies, rubbing against rocks, or other signs of disease. And don't be surprised if they fall in love with a different corner in a few days.

Thank you so much!!! I was really worried for them and when should I start feeding my corals? Sorry if I’m asking too much questions

 

[DeniseAndy]

Never too many questions... especially for those willing to learn and take advice.

 

[kittenbritches]

Thank you so much!!! I was really worried for them and when should I start feeding my corals? Sorry if I’m asking too much questions

I'd recommend buying tests for alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium first. And as @DeniseAndy stated, the torch will benefit from the mysis, too.

That's the best place to start. Watch and look for stability in your water parameters, and good extension with your torch. You can research LPS feeding recommendations, but I wouldn't go crazy with a single coral.

 

[agueybana81]

The clowns are doing well, what clowns do. You're going to find that they can be the goofballs in your tank. Mine did the same, then they hated each other, then they were fine, then the fight for dominance began. And now they're doing ok. They haven't pair up yet though. That's a brief recap of almost 3 months with them.

As far as the corals go. That's a little different. The zoas can pretty much live in mud. It would be ok if it won't fully open at first. Sometimes they can take a while to fully acclimate to their new home. The key here will be keeping your parameters as stable as you can. They could outside of the desire range but as long as they are steady they will start getting used to it.

For lighting, you won't really need high end lights, at least not for the zoas. I never mine at the bottom and they're going fine. And this is with lights that barely hit 140 par at 12 inches.

I would say, stick with the basics. For a tank new, I would check the parameters every other day, until you feel comfortable with them. By they I mean that you see them stabilized.

Also do 20 to 25% water changes every 2 weeks (every week better). Use water change day to clean the tank and filter. For the filter rinse the media with old tank water. You may also look into upgrading the stock filter media if you want. Like you can switch the ceramic (bio media) for something like seachem matrix. IF you're going to do this, do not get rid of the old bio media. You should run the filter with both the new and old media for at least 1 month. This will allow enough time for the bacteria to grow in the new one. Then simply you can ditch the ceramic and stick with the matrix. There are other upgrades you can do with the media, but this will give you a start, since at the early stages you want your tank to build enough beneficial bacteria. Then you can look into upgrading the chemical media, very likely carbon in your filter for something with GFO. If you can't find anything with GFO, you can use something like seachem purigen along with seachem phosguard. This will help you control the phosphates and silicates in your tank. Depending on the filter they you have you can run carbon with them as well. I know I do. Lastly you can upgraded your foam to floss, but at the same time I'm not exactly against foam media. It has serve me well, granted I clean it every time I do a water change. The is excessive, but I guess I'm jiffy paranoid.

Now that you have livestock, keep an eye out for changes You might see the sand turning brown (diatoms) or something red growing in the rocks (cyanobacteria/red slime algae). This will allow to choose a clean up crew and will also tell you which parameters need to be improved. I hope this helps you a little with what's to come.

 

[manuel josephh]

The clowns are doing well, what clowns do. You're going to find that they can be the goofballs in your tank. Mine did the same, then they hated each other, then they were fine, then the fight for dominance began. And now they're doing ok. They haven't pair up yet though. That's a brief recap of almost 3 months with them.

As far as the corals go. That's a little different. The zoas can pretty much live in mud. It would be ok if it won't fully open at first. Sometimes they can take a while to fully acclimate to their new home. The key here will be keeping your parameters as stable as you can. They could outside of the desire range but as long as they are steady they will start getting used to it.

For lighting, you won't really need high end lights, at least not for the zoas. I never mine at the bottom and they're going fine. And this is with lights that barely hit 140 par at 12 inches.

I would say, stick with the basics. For a tank new, I would check the parameters every other day, until you feel comfortable with them. By they I mean that you see them stabilized.

Also do 20 to 25% water changes every 2 weeks (every week better). Use water change day to clean the tank and filter. For the filter rinse the media with old tank water. You may also look into upgrading the stock filter media if you want. Like you can switch the ceramic (bio media) for something like seachem matrix. IF you're going to do this, do not get rid of the old bio media. You should run the filter with both the new and old media for at least 1 month. This will allow enough time for the bacteria to grow in the new one. Then simply you can ditch the ceramic and stick with the matrix. There are other upgrades you can do with the media, but this will give you a start, since at the early stages you want your tank to build enough beneficial bacteria. Then you can look into upgrading the chemical media, very likely carbon in your filter for something with GFO. If you can't find anything with GFO, you can use something like seachem purigen along with seachem phosguard. This will help you control the phosphates and silicates in your tank. Depending on the filter they you have you can run carbon with them as well. I know I do. Lastly you can upgraded your foam to floss, but at the same time I'm not exactly against foam media. It has serve me well, granted I clean it every time I do a water change. The is excessive, but I guess I'm jiffy paranoid.

Now that you have livestock, keep an eye out for changes You might see the sand turning brown (diatoms) or something red growing in the rocks (cyanobacteria/red slime algae). This will allow to choose a clean up crew and will also tell you which parameters need to be improved. I hope this helps you a little with what's to come.

Thanks a lot mate. Really good information!!