Corals are Struggling While dosing silicates

[Davisc1293]

Ive been fighting dinos for months on and end have been taking a more aggressive approach with no water changes and dosing silicates and Phyto daily. Besides the dinos still winning a majority of the sand bed I'm now seeing red cyano on the rocks and my corals are suffering. weather from high nutrients or low trace elements or a combo of both. I use tropic marin pro and heard its high iron levels could help the dinos so I'm reluctant to do a wc.

phos is currently high at 1.5ppm
nitrate 10ppm

 

[Lavey29]

Your phosphate is 15x to high so that is your problem. Needs to be around. 05 to .1.

 

[Cheezle]

Are you dosing live phyto? Anecdotal, but I had red and green cyano pop up when I dosed (probably overdosed) live phyto.. It went away a few weeks after I stopped dosing the live phyto. I dealt with dinos the same way though, just stopped with water changes and let the water get dirty but that phosphate level sounds way too high. I've read before that live phyto is heavy with fertilizer, makes me wonder if that's why cyano pops up when too much is used .. and why your phosphate levels are so high.

 

[Davisc1293]

Are you dosing live phyto? Anecdotal, but I had red and green cyano pop up when I dosed (probably overdosed) live phyto.. It went away a few weeks after I stopped dosing the live phyto. I dealt with dinos the same way though, just stopped with water changes and let the water get dirty but that phosphate level sounds way too high. I've read before that live phyto is heavy with fertilizer, makes me wonder if that's why cyano pops up when too much is used .. and why your phosphate levels are so high.

Its been a few weeks since my water change and i pulled my skimmer cup (which i have re installed)
I heard the hanna checker can give false reading while dosing silicates so it could be a false reading but my saifert test also seemed high but im terrible with color charts which is why i use the hanna checkers.

Yes i have been dosing live phyto and this last batch i had is called phyto crit which is more of a brown color and i assume is loaded with more nutrients but was all my lfs had at the time.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Dosing silicates will encourage diatom growth. Are you sure of what exactly is currently growing in the tank?
If your corals are suffering, I suggest a water change and then test ALL parameters and post here.
Hopefully that will help in finding a solution.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Also, are you sure of the type of dinos you have? The thread below discusses using silicates to encourage diatom growth in order to outcompete a particular type of dinos...

Amphidinium Dinoflagellate Treatment Methods

This thread is a spin-off from the @mcarroll very successful Dino thread The purpose is to discuss methods for removal and fighting against a particular strain of dinoflagellate - Large Cell Amphidinium. It seems to make up about a third of the cases of dinos. The reason this strain gets its...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Davisc1293]

Also, are you sure of the type of dinos you have? The thread below discusses using silicates to encourage diatom growth in order to outcompete a particular type of dinos...

Amphidinium Dinoflagellate Treatment Methods

This thread is a spin-off from the @mcarroll very successful Dino thread The purpose is to discuss methods for removal and fighting against a particular strain of dinoflagellate - Large Cell Amphidinium. It seems to make up about a third of the cases of dinos. The reason this strain gets its...

www.reef2reef.com

Im not able to ID types of dinos but i did post microscope slides and was told it was large cell amphidinium

 

[Davisc1293]

I will do a water change but have not been able to get new salt i only have the tropic marin pro.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I will do a water change but have not been able to get new salt i only have the tropic marin pro.

Was the thread I posted the one you were following for instructions about the treatment you're using?
I will admit I have limited experience with dinos so don't want to give you bad advice.
Can you possibly set up a temporary tank and move your corals over so you can help them recover while still working on the main tank?

 

[Tamberav]

I probably would keep phosphates high enough to encourage growth of other organisms but not so high to stress corals.

I am not sure what type of corals you have but I would think 0.1-0.5 Po4 would be plenty to try and grow something other than Dino.

 

[brandon429]

Sadies Biocube 16

www.nano-reef.com

Davis

read those quick five pages to the end. You see two easy rip cleans


I looked at your post history and you’re going on four straight months not enjoying the tank, you’re doing what the public does for dinos and that’s why invasions last months/ years for some. The public would never do a rip clean (which is why the 450 page dinos thread has about six total wins, out of 450~ entrants) and we are 2/2 in that thread.


large tanks can’t do rip cleans, therefore the writers of dinos mitigation rules said nanos wouldn’t benefit by them. Does that appear to be true after completing the read above? Would your tank not turnaround in 24 hours time, we just did it for two nanos in a row? How are the keepers updates looking

are the corals not the strongest they’ve been in the build threads


our method for dinos in a nano can’t be beaten, see how we are back in control of the tanks above by being thorough and deliberate


wanna make it 3/3? You could be winning by tomorrow, we show.

 

[brandon429]

in a nano reef invasion, we don’t ever need to know the species at hand. We need only a tank owner done with being invaded, ready to win. A rip clean fixes any invasion that exists in a nano reef.

ability to access the entire system and all new water changes the remediation rules. Large tankers don’t have access to all new water and it’s too hard to clean the tank correctly, they must do it in parts

large tank owners can’t rip clean, they must hesitantly ID and dose things/ cross fingers and hope and by extension owners of all reefs think it has to be this way. so the rule gets made up: don’t do water changes during dinos


and that’s a bad rule, bc we do opposite and collect wins. There is no larger % water change than a rip clean, doing opposite of the rules made by large tankers is good for nano owners but you have to clean all at once, you can NOT do it in sections. There’s a reason for that.


as of now: your suspended protein is low

Invasion mass is high

food concentration, low. They’re nitrogen negative and losing mass.

all surfaces blanketed, surface area for nitrification reduced from wastewater contact by blanketing coverage


your corals haven’t been fed used with increased water changes the last few mos, they’re enduring stresses only. dosers only

blackouts, all insults.

Changes hoping to affect dinos over an extended period, thats coral stress. We dispense the invasion overnite and concentrate on feed + water changes to drive clean protein right back into corals = puts on mass.


we get opposite outcome by doing opposite to what the masses do.

you can be fixed by tomorrow we show as plain as day twice over above.




notice this: we focus on increased feeding of corals after the rip clean, not dosers. It’s why their corals are extended so well they’re about to fall out of the cup. do literally opposite of the masses for the consistent win.

do a nano reef exercise reboot camp live time here. Your after pics will look like gold if you do.

 

[taricha]

Just to point out,
The system has...
1) Si dosing
2) live phyto
3) dinos
4) cyano
5) PO4 of 1.5ppm

There are abundant reasons here that the corals could be unhappy, Si seems unlikely to be the main culprit.

 

[GarrettT]

Do you have a silica test reading?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

There are abundant reasons here that the corals could be unhappy, Si seems unlikely to be the main culprit.

Agree. I do not think silicate directly impacts corals.

 

[Davisc1293]

Sadies Biocube 16

www.nano-reef.com

Davis

read those quick five pages to the end. You see two easy rip cleans


I looked at your post history and you’re going on four straight months not enjoying the tank, you’re doing what the public does for dinos and that’s why invasions last months/ years for some. The public would never do a rip clean (which is why the 450 page dinos thread has about six total wins, out of 450~ entrants) and we are 2/2 in that thread.


large tanks can’t do rip cleans, therefore the writers of dinos mitigation rules said nanos wouldn’t benefit by them. Does that appear to be true after completing the read above? Would your tank not turnaround in 24 hours time, we just did it for two nanos in a row? How are the keepers updates looking

are the corals not the strongest they’ve been in the build threads


our method for dinos in a nano can’t be beaten, see how we are back in control of the tanks above by being thorough and deliberate


wanna make it 3/3? You could be winning by tomorrow, we show.

Ive been dabating removing and replacing my sand because my current sand is very fine. Would it be advised against replacing the sand during this rip clean?

 

[brandon429]

everytime I see a reply to a rip clean pitch as I'm clicking and waiting for the page I'm in pure suspense wondering if my offer will be received as a total insult or received as legit help based on your pics


lol thank u for the kind response

we can easily swap your sand for any new sand you want or even omit it, and go bare bottom a while making sure dinos stay gone off rocks and corals and add the sand back after a delay. removing the sand does not remove crucial/required surface area from any display reef. we all use plenty of live rock and you have as well.

get ocean direct wet pack sand, everyone likes that kind.


*notice how we pre rinse every sand you could choose from in my study thread above, it doesn't matter what sand you buy: how they pre rinsed the sand is crucial/we'll be pre rinsing whatever sand you buy to total cloudless perfection

 

[GarrettT]

Silicate will remedy the Dino’s that develope on sand. No need to rip it clean. Also, be aware, when the diatoms take over and dominate the dino’s, it will still look much like dino’s. It will be hard to tell them apart. It’s always best to use a microscope to verify. Cerith snails will help remove the diatom algae. If Dino’s are primary on live rock, get a UV sterlizer. Night and day difference. Keep po4 around 0.03-1.0ppm and no3 above 2.5ppm. I personally would monitor the silicate. I was amazed at how high my levels got when dosing even small amounts. Everyone’s tank is different though.

 

[brandon429]

When you say no need to rip it clean, I'm wanting you to post a thread where you fixed this outbound in two nanos back to back

I'm seeing someone follow 3 months of no link, no specifics, wait longer offers, which is killing their corals and without a single example posted here for anyone doing such a job outbound recently.


Offers that come with cure links showing relevant tanks done last week are the best proof. We are heading off his impending GHA takeover with my offer, I noticed nobody so far told the op to notice how many dinos threads turn into gha wrecked for months threads, using the common no link offers.

Davis, you can tell i won't let ya down we follow through on all rip cleans. There is a sixty page work thread with hundreds, but I didn't want to scare you off initially lol those top two are plenty good to copy.

 

[GarrettT]

I’m having a hard time following, but what exactly is your interpretation of a rip clean?