Corals closed and I don't know why!

[PugsAndFish]

My corals have been closed and I have no idea why! I’m starting to get frustrated because I can’t find the reason why :*(

I’m a newbie with a 10 gallon tank. The tank is about 3 months old. I cycled using Biospira. Equipment is Reefsaver, Seachem filter with Seachem matrix, a Jebao powerhead, Chemipure Blue, and a Hydra 26HD.

Early on, corals looked great. Then zoas started closing. I thought zoas closed due to increased lighting (slowly increased intensity each week) and the growth of algae on the polyps. Therefore, I lowered lighting and did my best to get the algae under control. I cleaned my filter, cleaned up detritus, blew algae off polyps, and peroxide dipped. I also removed white egg crate which seems to release phosphates according to some threads on R2R. The algae (which may have been dino actually) is a ton better. I still blow off a few hairs each day but it’s not bad at all.

I should mention I did a ton of water changes during this time in order to control algae by reducing nutrients. I also thought too many water changes could have been a reason for the corals suffering.

However, corals added after getting algae under control are now closed too. Also, I don’t think it was algae on the polyps in the first place that caused corals to close because corals like hammer, torch, and even GSP are closed.

My alkalinity also swung a bit. It’s usually around 8.4 and didn’t fluctuate so I just tested once a week. I got a few free stony frags though and threw those in the tank and I think those actually brought alk down to 6.4 (yikes) in a week. I did my weekly water change and alk is now at 7.4. I think other params are where they need to be though.


Any pros out there have any advice?

 

[starypotter]

You say all other numbers are where they need to be, but anybody who is going to be able to help is going to want exact numbers on whatever you can test for, and which kits are you using? Are you doing API or something else? That'll help people answer more accurately.

 

[PugsAndFish]

You say all other numbers are where they need to be, but anybody who is going to be able to help is going to want exact numbers on whatever you can test for, and which kits are you using? Are you doing API or something else? That'll help people answer more accurately.

These are my parameters and the test kits I use:

Temperature : 77-78
Salinity: 1.025 (Refractometer)
Ammonia: 0 (Salifert)
Nitrite: 0(Salifert)
Nitrate: 5 (Salifert and Red Sea)
pH: 8.15 (Salifert)
Phosphate: Undetectable (Salifert)
Calcium: 450 (Salifert)
Magnesium: 1350 (Salifert)

 

[Retro Reefer]

Sounds like your rushing things a little, your tank is probably not stabilized yet.. 3 months would be the point to start slowing introducing livestock. Make sure you have an adequate CUC to help you with the algae

 

[André Brasil]

Your lighting is quite powerful for a tank that size. How is that set up?

 

[André Brasil]

Also, some pictures wouldn't hurt ^^

 

[PDR]

I agree, probably moving a little too fast and the tank isn't quite ready for coral. Are you running any carbon?
Pictures would definitely help.

 

[Crazeh]

Zoas are slow to respond to changes and wont improve overnight (need weeks/months).

I suspect you do have higher algae and phosphates but your readings show OK as the algae is using it up. In that case running GFO will help with phosphates and curb the algae which can irritate corals, especially zoas. If tank is 'too clean' reef roids can help get your corals some nutrients.

The above is for reference, don't take any action yet and let's gather more info.

 

[tankstudy]

My alkalinity also swung a bit. It’s usually around 8.4 and didn’t fluctuate so I just tested once a week. I got a few free stony frags though and threw those in the tank and I think those actually brought alk down to 6.4 (yikes) in a week. I did my weekly water change and alk is now at 7.4. I think other params are where they need to be though.


Any pros out there have any advice?

Dropping below 7 for alk is probably your issue. Now that you've brought it above 7 again, you need to keep it there for a long time. Things that closed from the lower alk can take a long time to recover. Some will start opening again in just days but some may take weeks/months.

You'll need to monitor your alk more closely as your tank continues to grow or as you add more corals. My little 20 gallon if not monitored can fluctuate 1 alk/dkh a day and I keep mainly softies & anemones. If it drops below 7 dkh, I can tell things get pretty unhappy.

You may have to start dosing alk if water changes aren't sufficient. I depend pretty much on dosing now. When I first started water changes were acceptable but once alk is consumed drastically, it's either water changes every day or dose.

 

[PugsAndFish]

Sounds like your rushing things a little, your tank is probably not stabilized yet.. 3 months would be the point to start slowing introducing livestock. Make sure you have an adequate CUC to help you with the algae

Yea got impatient and picked up a few zoa frags at a sale and then I went wild...everytime I see a deal at a local hobbyist's home, I go and somehow obtain a ton of freebies. Def stocked too fast but I thought it'd be ok since I read that adding corals doesn't affect water quality as much as overloading fish.

 

[PugsAndFish]

Your lighting is quite powerful for a tank that size. How is that set up?

Yea I bought large because I knew I would get something that is at least 24 inches later. I set up the 10 gallon because I didn't want anything bigger due to difficulty moving.

I downloaded the Saxby setting which seems to be popular and just lowered it.

 

[PugsAndFish]

I agree, probably moving a little too fast and the tank isn't quite ready for coral. Are you running any carbon?
Pictures would definitely help.

Not running carbon but Chemipure Blue. I also bought some Purigen.

Now....things are closed


Things were looking good not too long ago


Close up of a closed zoa frag

 

[André Brasil]

Yea I bought large because I knew I would get something that is at least 24 inches later. I set up the 10 gallon because I didn't want anything bigger due to difficulty moving.

I downloaded the Saxby setting which seems to be popular and just lowered it.

So it's @ 20% max, correct? How many watts is that?

 

[PugsAndFish]

Zoas are slow to respond to changes and wont improve overnight (need weeks/months).

I suspect you do have higher algae and phosphates but your readings show OK as the algae is using it up. In that case running GFO will help with phosphates and curb the algae which can irritate corals, especially zoas. If tank is 'too clean' reef roids can help get your corals some nutrients.

The above is for reference, don't take any action yet and let's gather more info.

I just ordered the Hanna ULR Phosphate checker to get accurate readings of phosphates. I've been sticking to pellets so far for the fish just to be cautious in recent days

 

[PugsAndFish]

Dropping below 7 for alk is probably your issue. Now that you've brought it above 7 again, you need to keep it there for a long time. Things that closed from the lower alk can take a long time to recover. Some will start opening again in just days but some may take weeks/months.

You'll need to monitor your alk more closely as your tank continues to grow or as you add more corals. My little 20 gallon if not monitored can fluctuate 1 alk/dkh a day and I keep mainly softies & anemones. If it drops below 7 dkh, I can tell things get pretty unhappy.

You may have to start dosing alk if water changes aren't sufficient. I depend pretty much on dosing now. When I first started water changes were acceptable but once alk is consumed drastically, it's either water changes every day or dose.

I just bought Seachem Kalkwasser. I think I'll try the drip method. My tank evaporates about 1 cup of water per day so should I just mix in the appropriate amount of Kalkwasser to 1 cup each day and then have that above my tank? I'm guessing this means no more manual top offs. I've watched the BRS episodes on calcium/alk but it's a bit intimidating because I don't want to screw things up more !

 

[PugsAndFish]

So it's @ 20% max, correct? How many watts is that?

Not sure how to find watts but at the highest peak I have 16% UV, 24% V, 37% RY, 36% B, 3% G, DR 4%, 14% CW.

 

[Crazeh]

I just ordered the Hanna ULR Phosphate checker to get accurate readings of phosphates. I've been sticking to pellets so far for the fish just to be cautious in recent days

For what it's worth if there's algae in there eating up the phosphates your test might still show up as, or close to, zero.

What's your source water?

 

[PugsAndFish]

For what it's worth if there's algae in there eating up the phosphates your test might still show up as, or close to, zero.

What's your source water?

I use NYC water. I'm using the BRS 5 stage unit. TDS before entering the DI cannister is about 2 and leaving at 0 so I think source water is ok.

I also tested alk and it looks like there isn't any consumption lol. Staying at 7.4 the last 2 days

 

[Aaron iReef2]

Aaron @ ireef2.com,
Its hard to tell from pic, but there maybe a light dusting of dinoflaggelate algae on the rocks below the closed zoas.? Tough to tell from pic tho? This algae would close up corals. Seen some luck using a crew of blue nerite snails. One of the few snails that will work on true dinoflagellates. Also, lights out for 3 days and extra flow may curb dinoflagellates. Lights out shouldn't hurt the already closed corals for 3 days.
Chem blue already has a purigen type media mixed in. Save a bit of money and just go with chem blue. However, chemipure elite has ferric oxide that will help to curb phosphates. I like the elite for that size of tank and phosphate control.
Happy Reefing !
Aaron iReef2.com

 

[PugsAndFish]

Aaron @ ireef2.com,
Its hard to tell from pic, but there maybe a light dusting of dinoflaggelate algae on the rocks below the closed zoas.? Tough to tell from pic tho? This algae would close up corals. Seen some luck using a crew of blue nerite snails. One of the few snails that will work on true dinoflagellates. Also, lights out for 3 days and extra flow may curb dinoflagellates. Lights out shouldn't hurt the already closed corals for 3 days.
Chem blue already has a purigen type media mixed in. Save a bit of money and just go with chem blue. However, chemipure elite has ferric oxide that will help to curb phosphates. I like the elite for that size of tank and phosphate control.
Happy Reefing !
Aaron iReef2.com

Thanks for the advice. Would dinos cause corals to close even if the dinos aren't directly on the actual corals but more on the glass or rocks?