Corals doing poorly and everything seems fine

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Just because it is sold as a coral light doesn't mean it is sufficient. The only way to know if you have enough light is by measuring the PAR.

For flow, you should shoot for at least 20 time tank volume for turn over. If your power head is operating at 100% efficiency, you are at less than 8 times plus whatever that canister filter provides, which probably isn't that much.

Thanks will test par and Ill re adjust the filter to help ( I looked at the box , I bought over kill) it dose ~600 gallons per hour, still not enough, but a have ~ 40 lbs of live rock taking 25% of tank area should I account for that as well in flow amount? (found the light I bought and its not extreamly high par its only 500 par though it is led and it is found that higher par corals for florescent lights do better under lower par led some sps can be kept in 200 par led lights)
 
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I'd start with verifying salinity. LFS salt water does not mix that high in Mg nor ALK, so I suspect salinity is higher than 1.026.
None of us calibrate as often as we should.

If that is not the issue, the next thing to check is nitrates & PO4 (checked by Hanna ULR). Low nutrient and high(er) ALK don't mix well for corals.

Thanks will do gettinmg PO4 tested sunday by lfs
 
Magnesium is way to high like stated above.
24watts for a light is nothing, most people would run 200+ watts on a tank that size.
I meant 24% white sorry for the confusion it is a 90 watt light
 
Take you'r pics with the whites on, so we can see the different types of algae growing on your rocks. Seems like you have Coraline algae growing on the back glass which is good. Light, Flow, Params and Pest will easily cause corals to retract.
 
Take you'r pics with the whites on, so we can see the different types of algae growing on your rocks. Seems like you have Coraline algae growing on the back glass which is good. Light, Flow, Params and Pest will easily cause corals to retract.

IMG_20200216_181721.jpg IMG_20200216_181725.jpg IMG_20200216_181728.jpg
 
Can you post a vid of the tank so we can see how much flow these corals are getting? LPS don't do well with high flow.
 

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Another vote for salinity being a problem. Especially when I see alk, cal and mag all higher than normal. Just because the LFS mixes your water doesn't mean your tank is right.
 
@ruger11, remember, when equipment gives a rating such as gallons per hour, that is its maximum, not necessarily what you will get. There are a number of things that will reduce flow.

As far as you light being a 90 watt light, that is with everything running at 100%. As soon as you turn down the blues and the whites, it is no longer running at 90 watts.

I have a 37 gallon display tank. It is a mixed reef with SPS, LPS and zoas. My turn over for water is at 1800 gallons per hour max and a minimum of 1200 gallons per hour. I run a 90 watt LED at reduced output along with 4 T5 bulbs. I'm not saying this is what you should do, just giving you an idea of what someone else runs.

You never said how you measure salinity in the tank. Also, how do you top off your tank, with an ATO, or do you do it manually. Also, do you top it off with RO/DI freshwater. I only ask about the freshwater because I have seen other top of with salt water made from RO/DI water thinking that was what RO/DI top off was.
 
Another vote for salinity being a problem. Especially when I see alk, cal and mag all higher than normal. Just because the LFS mixes your water doesn't mean your tank is right.

what I and my lfs uses is the accuprobe hyrdometer is it not accurate
 
Thanks will do gettinmg PO4 tested sunday by lfs
You should start doing these tests yourself. As much as you might trust your LFS, they won't care about your tank more than you will.
 
what I and my lfs uses is the accuprobe hyrdometer is it not accurate

No, it isn't. If you want accuracy you need a refractometer, either digital or optical, that you calibrate periodically. A glass hydrometer meant for use in a lab would do as well, but plastic swing arm hydrometers are all but useless.

Sorry to say, but the more I read, the less I trust your LFS.
 
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If your tank has completed cycling you should have 0 nitrites

I have to assume that is a typo, if not add that to the list of trouble shooting, you should have zero
Maybe a bad test but if it’s not zero, there is an issue
 
No, it isn't. If you want accuracy you need a refractometer, either digital or optical, that you calibrate periodically. A glass hydrometer mean for use in a lab would do as well, but plastic swing arm hydrometers are all but useless.

Sorry to say, but the more I read, the less I trust your LFS.

so do I, How could you calibrate a hydrometer
 
If your tank has completed cycling you should have 0 nitrites

I have to assume that is a typo, if not add that to the list of trouble shooting, you should have zero
Maybe a bad test but if it’s not zero, there is an issue

probably just a bad test
 
No calibration possible on a hydrometer

Invest in a refractometer for reefing, hydro might be ok for FO
 
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would this work


Yes, but I would look at bulkreefsupply.com

A lot of counterfeit products come from 3rd party sellers on amazon. The link you posted shows a 3rd party seller. It may be fine, but why risk it.

You will also need 35ppt calibration fluid.
 

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