CORALS JUST WONT LAST

[saltwater newby]

Hello everyone
Just wanted to see what advice is out there for my situation. To sum things up in a nutshell.
no matter how much I try to have the best water quality, husbandry,equipment and consistency in my parameters I just can't get corals to last me long term or to show any signs of growth. My easy to keep corals won't thrive and my harder to keep corals welt away sooner or later. I've done numerous research from all sources.
Has anyone felt or dealt with this before?
Current parameters
No3 2.5 stable dosing nopox on doser
Po4 0 to 0.1 salifert
Salinity 1.025
Alk 8.6 to 8.9 stable bionic on dosing pump a&b
Ca 390 to 400 stable bionic on dosing pump a&b
Mag 1360 stable
Ph8.0-8.2 constant CO2 scrubber
Equipment
3 radion gen 4 running spa ab+ schedule
Bubble magus skimmer curve5
Carbon reactor
My tank is 1 1/2 year old.

 

[creas]

Do you use RoDi water? Are they primarily SPS or LPS? Do the corals melt away fast or slowly? Have your nitrates always been so low?

 

[Js.Aqua.Project]

Not an expert by any means, but based on my experience if you are running a Low Nutrient system like you are the corals will benefit from the addition of some Amino Acids. The corals can absorb them through their tissue and help sustain them in these low nutrient systems.

Remember that Zooxanthellae is an algae and needs some NO3 and PO4 to thrive.

While not an exact science, most softies like "dirty water" and LPS still like decent NO3 levels - so while the low levels may keep algae away, it also makes your corals unhappy. So if you're not going for SPS at the moment, try cutting back the NoPox dose for a little bit.

Also, are you using RODI water?

 

[aquariumspecialtyDane Verified Sponsor]

I definitely agree that it could be too clean. Usually though if you are getting any reading on nitrates then you are ok in the nutrient department. Its when they stay undetectable is when you might be in trouble. What I would like to know is where you get your water from and where did you get your sand and rock from. Someone could of had the rock before you and added copper or something that the coral will not like at all. The rock might be leaking small trace amounts into your water column, and almost be too low to read on a test kit. I have seen that happen before. I agree that you should start adding some amino and fatty acids to the tank. Elos is definitely my favorite brand of aminos. It is called Omega. Polyp lab also makes a great product called polyp-booster. I use both and mix it up from week to week. Ever since I have started using these products I've seen amazing results in the health of my corals. I am getting better color and growth ever since I started using Omega, and polyp-booster about a year ago. Also if you run carbon only run it for like 4 or 5 days and then take it out for a month or so. After about 5 days the carbon gets exhausted and is basically just re-releasing what it absorbed back into the system. Melv's Reef has a great you tube video that explains this in a lot more detail. I would recommend sending a sample of your water though Triton labs and let them test it. Its a great way to know exactly what's going on. Good Luck!

http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/triton-labs-icp-oes-water-test-full-panel
http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/elos-omega-amino-acids
http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/polyplab-polyp-booster

www.aquariumspecialty.com

 

[thaitopher]

How often do you feed them?

 

[-Logzor]

The solution to problems like this is rarely to add more complexity. While I understand the role of add amino acids, from my experience, you will have more luck by simplifying your system.

1. Confirm your RO/DI is working properly
2. Remove CO2 scrubber for a few weeks
3. Check/reduce lighting schedule (could be frying corals - or start corals in a low spot)
4. Discontinue nopox dosing

How big is your aquarium? 3 radions sounds like a lot. Could be photo-inhibition caused by too much lighting.

 

[malira]

How do you test phosphates? Your reading may be in the margin of error so you could be sitting at 0 phosphates which is a problem, especially for Sps.

 

[Pongo]

NO3 of 2.5 and PO4 of 0.1 is not a ULN tank. And a level of 0 - 0.1 of PO4 is not a very accurate measurement.
There are many tanks running with those levels and doing just fine.
Maybe a Hanna ULR phosphorus checker would help you get a more accurate measure of PO4, but I don't think that is your problem.

The other 2 important basic elements needed (besides a good clean water source) are water flow and light.
Can you describe your tank dimensions, how are the lights mounted, max % your light schedule peaks at, how long the lights are a max %, number and type of flow pumps in the DT?

Have you done any PAR measurements in the tank?

And as other's have asked - what is the source of your water? RO/DI?
Used rock/sand?
Also - you didn't list the temperature range over 24hrs in the tank.

Can you post more pics?
The one you posted looks pretty good, I wish my toadstool leather had PE that good.

 

[saltwater newby]

Do you use RoDi water? Are they primarily SPS or LPS? Do the corals melt away fast or slowly? Have your nitrates always been so low?

Hello
I do have an ro unit showing 0 tds every time. I've had small drags of birdsnest,monti caps and encrusting montis but they've bleached away little by little. Nitrates were higher way back then but I've gotten them lower once I dialed in nopox on a doser. Right now I have softies and some small lps frag . I did have kessils and just recently about 3 weeks ago I got the radions . I'm hoping that'll help

 

[reeferfoxx]

I think your alk is too high for lns. I would let it fall to the 7 - 8dkh range and see how things do.

 

[Acrofiend]

The bleaching could be from too much light and too low of nutrients. I'd stop the nopox dosing and try only running the skimmer during the day. Keep your nitrates around the 5-10ppm range and phosphate around .03 and keep it simple with water changes. Then see how everything goes.

 

[reeferfoxx]

If you dont have any unwanted algae or cyano, I wouldnt change anything except alkalinity. Thats the only thing increasing growth. But with an increase in growth you have to have nutrients.

 

[RUNVS]

Have you tested for Copper? Perhaps the Live Rock you put in was used in a fish only and treated with Copper.

Just a thought. Good Luck

 

[saltwater newby]

Not an expert by any means, but based on my experience if you are running a Low Nutrient system like you are the corals will benefit from the addition of some Amino Acids. The corals can absorb them through their tissue and help sustain them in these low nutrient systems.

Remember that Zooxanthellae is an algae and needs some NO3 and PO4 to thrive.

While not an exact science, most softies like "dirty water" and LPS still like decent NO3 levels - so while the low levels may keep algae away, it also makes your corals unhappy. So if you're not going for SPS at the moment, try cutting back the NoPox dose for a little bit.

Also, are you using RODI water?

I do use a brs ro di with tds meter showing 0
I perform biweekly water changes.
I was manually dosing Red Sea colors and reef energy but stopped. I occasionally will add Red Sea reef energy maybe once or twice a week. Nopox I only dose 6 ml. Should I cut back more??

 

[saltwater newby]

I definitely agree that it could be too clean. Usually though if you are getting any reading on nitrates then you are ok in the nutrient department. Its when they stay undetectable is when you might be in trouble. What I would like to know is where you get your water from and where did you get your sand and rock from. Someone could of had the rock before you and added copper or something that the coral will not like at all. The rock might be leaking small trace amounts into your water column, and almost be too low to read on a test kit. I have seen that happen before. I agree that you should start adding some amino and fatty acids to the tank. Elos is definitely my favorite brand of aminos. It is called Omega. Polyp lab also makes a great product called polyp-booster. I use both and mix it up from week to week. Ever since I have started using these products I've seen amazing results in the health of my corals. I am getting better color and growth ever since I started using Omega, and polyp-booster about a year ago. Also if you run carbon only run it for like 4 or 5 days and then take it out for a month or so. After about 5 days the carbon gets exhausted and is basically just re-releasing what it absorbed back into the system. Melv's Reef has a great you tube video that explains this in a lot more detail. I would recommend sending a sample of your water though Triton labs and let them test it. Its a great way to know exactly what's going on. Good Luck!

http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/triton-labs-icp-oes-water-test-full-panel
http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/elos-omega-amino-acids
http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/polyplab-polyp-booster

www.aquariumspecialty.com

Hello
I filter my own water with a rodi. The sand was bought new in bags I forgot the brand though. The rock was mainly dry rock and one 30+ lb rock that was cured live rock from my reputable LFS. I do occasionally feed my corals goniopower, and dose Red Sea reef energy still. I also have some samples of reefroids that I occasionally feed my corals. I also went through a bottle of oyster feast and just got a new one that I started broadcast feeding . I'll definitely cut back on the carbon as well I also saw that video but never tried it.

 

[saltwater newby]

How often do you feed them?

My corals? 1-2 times a week
My fish nori in the morning and frozen food once in the afternoon

 

[saltwater newby]

The solution to problems like this is rarely to add more complexity. While I understand the role of add amino acids, from my experience, you will have more luck by simplifying your system.

1. Confirm your RO/DI is working properly
2. Remove CO2 scrubber for a few weeks
3. Check/reduce lighting schedule (could be frying corals - or start corals in a low spot)
4. Discontinue nopox dosing

How big is your aquarium? 3 radions sounds like a lot. Could be photo-inhibition caused by too much lighting.

My tank is 4 feet long. I have 3 xr15 gen4. I plan to cut out CO2 once the media runs out which is soon. Won't my no3 spike if out cut out my nopox? Rodi has tds meter reading 0 I have also tested my water after I've done mixing and it reads 0 on my salifert test kit. None of my kits are expired.

 

[saltwater newby]

How do you test phosphates? Your reading may be in the margin of error so you could be sitting at 0 phosphates which is a problem, especially for Sps.

I use a salifert test kit. Po4 is barely detectable when I test .

 

[iemsparticus]

My corals? 1-2 times a week
My fish nori in the morning and frozen food once in the afternoon

Have you used a PAR meter to make sure you are not blasting your corals with too much light? It's very easy to pump too much light in there, especially with LEDs.

 

[saltwater newby]

NO3 of 2.5 and PO4 of 0.1 is not a ULN tank. And a level of 0 - 0.1 of PO4 is not a very accurate measurement.
There are many tanks running with those levels and doing just fine.
Maybe a Hanna ULR phosphorus checker would help you get a more accurate measure of PO4, but I don't think that is your problem.

The other 2 important basic elements needed (besides a good clean water source) are water flow and light.
Can you describe your tank dimensions, how are the lights mounted, max % your light schedule peaks at, how long the lights are a max %, number and type of flow pumps in the DT?

Have you done any PAR measurements in the tank?

And as other's have asked - what is the source of your water? RO/DI?
Used rock/sand?
Also - you didn't list the temperature range over 24hrs in the tank.

Can you post more pics?
The one you posted looks pretty good, I wish my toadstool leather had PE that good.