Corals: where to start

[gray808]

I'm putting this in the SPS forum simply because it's the first in the Coral forums; the question(s) pertains to all kinds of corals.

Where does one start researching what corals they want in their tank?
I know you can get light readings with a PAR meter... is there something similar to get flow readings?
How do you know what corals will "fight" with other corals? How far apart should ones that might fight be?
What are some good corals to start with, just to get a little color going in a new tank?
How long do I need to wait after fish are introduced, before adding them?

Aquarium hardware, QT, fish, etc all seemed relatively easy to research, but there are so many coral types it's daunting to even start researching.

Webpages (non-video), books are my preferred sources, though I'd take links to helpful videos as well.

--Gray

 

[Raideress]

following

 

[ycnibrc]

This is a difficult question to give definite answers because each tank mature differently. Normally after 6 months when your parameters and biological of your tank are stable you can start adding Sps. As far as which Coral to add then research Hardy Sps and pick from the list. Staghorn is one of the Hardy good beginning Sps.

 

[Palegic]

Sometime between 4 and 6 months when your tank is cycled. When amonia tests at 0, nitrite 0, and nitrate under 10 ppm for weeks. You have added other live stock and they are also doing well.

Flow and turnover can be estimated by the gph ratings on your power heads and tank volume.

What type of lighting do you have?

Softies are generally the easiest.

 

[Pistondog]

I'm putting this in the SPS forum simply because it's the first in the Coral forums; the question(s) pertains to all kinds of corals.

Where does one start researching what corals they want in their tank?
I know you can get light readings with a PAR meter... is there something similar to get flow readings?
How do you know what corals will "fight" with other corals? How far apart should ones that might fight be?
What are some good corals to start with, just to get a little color going in a new tank?
How long do I need to wait after fish are introduced, before adding them?

Aquarium hardware, QT, fish, etc all seemed relatively easy to research, but there are so many coral types it's daunting to even start researching.

Webpages (non-video), books are my preferred sources, though I'd take links to helpful videos as well.

--Gray

What flowers do you want to grow in your garden?
It is a personal choice, not a reccomendation.
Once you choose, "I'd really like to have a zoa garden with some lps highlights", then we can help you get your tank in shape to help those corals thrive.
Some corals are easier in immature tanks (softies), but might impede the success of your ultimate tank choices.
To decide what corals you want, you might look at what reef tanks look good to you.
Get a coral, you might not like it, but you'll surely learn something.

 

[gray808]

Sometime between 4 and 6 months when your tank is cycled. When amonia tests at 0, nitrite 0, and nitrate under 10 ppm for weeks. You have added other live stock and they are also doing well.

Thanks!

Flow and turnover can be estimated by the gph ratings on your power heads and tank volume.

My return is a Reef Octopus Varios-2 with 792gph.
Inside the tank I have a Reef Octopus Pulse 2 and an IceCap 2k Gyre (1600 and 2000gph, respectively), in a WaterBox Marine 70.3, 36"x 20" x18", 43.8G in the DT. It can be augmented as needed.

What type of lighting do you have?

2 AI Prime 16HD Reefs. I have a spare Kessil A80 Tuna Blue that could be rigged between those two.

What flowers do you want to grow in your garden?
It is a personal choice, not a recommendation.

I'm not really asking for recommendations, I'm asking where I can read up on how each type differes, the care each requires, how different groups live with other groups. What I am saying is, I don't have the knowledge right now to say
"I'd really like to have a zoa garden with some lps highlights". I'm more of the point of "Me want it pretty, pretty things in there", and I'd like to educate myself up to the point I *can* ask for more direct advice.

Some corals are easier in immature tanks (softies), but might impede the success of your ultimate tank choices.

This is a good example: Why would a certain softie impede the success of the ultimate tank choice?

-----

Things I know I like:
Lots of colors, lots of variation of color.
I'm not a huge fan of the really large, mat-like corals (leathers?) (or maybe I just haven't seen any in person, and they look nicer than the pictures I've seen look).
I like movement, like longer tentacles, fans, and the like.
I'd like to eventually have some of the branchy hard stuff.
I don't want to have to worry too much about one coral fighting another, avoiding it either by intelligent placing (more learning), or just avoiding certain problem ones (more learning).

I'm just now about to add fish (QT being set up now, I might get the first batch this weekend), so I know I am several months out, though it would be nice to add something now that would add a bit of color, but be ok with a newly cycled tank.

Would pictures of the rockwork perhaps help give me an idea of what kinds would be good candidates for various areas within the tank?

--Gray

 

[Palegic]

Thanks!


My return is a Reef Octopus Varios-2 with 792gph.
Inside the tank I have a Reef Octopus Pulse 2 and an IceCap 2k Gyre (1600 and 2000gph, respectively), in a WaterBox Marine 70.3, 36"x 20" x18", 43.8G in the DT. It can be augmented as needed.



2 AI Prime 16HD Reefs. I have a spare Kessil A80 Tuna Blue that could be rigged between those two.



I'm not really asking for recommendations, I'm asking where I can read up on how each type differes, the care each requires, how different groups live with other groups. What I am saying is, I don't have the knowledge right now to say
"I'd really like to have a zoa garden with some lps highlights". I'm more of the point of "Me want it pretty, pretty things in there", and I'd like to educate myself up to the point I *can* ask for more direct advice.



This is a good example: Why would a certain softie impede the success of the ultimate tank choice?

-----

Things I know I like:
Lots of colors, lots of variation of color.
I'm not a huge fan of the really large, mat-like corals (leathers?) (or maybe I just haven't seen any in person, and they look nicer than the pictures I've seen look).
I like movement, like longer tentacles, fans, and the like.
I'd like to eventually have some of the branchy hard stuff.
I don't want to have to worry too much about one coral fighting another, avoiding it either by intelligent placing (more learning), or just avoiding certain problem ones (more learning).

I'm just now about to add fish (QT being set up now, I might get the first batch this weekend), so I know I am several months out, though it would be nice to add something now that would add a bit of color, but be ok with a newly cycled tank.

Would pictures of the rockwork perhaps help give me an idea of what kinds would be good candidates for various areas within the tank?

--Gray

I would set the return flow to 2-3x tank volume and you should be right around 85x max turnover which is perfectly acceptable. I would ramp the in tank turnover between 50 & 75 which is what WWC operates at in most of their tanks.

As for as softies impeding tank progress, not really. Keep them lower in the tank. They generally grow at a more rapid rate to be prepared to cut them back or frag as necessary to keep them from overtaking the tank especially with GSP, and Xenia.

You want to keep corals with sweeper tentacles (Euphyllia (Galaxia, Hammers, torches, frogspawn...) away from other corals. Other than that most things play nicely together.

 

[gray808]

Reviving this, since I didn't get an answer to one thing, and it's resurfaced in my awareness:

How do you measure flow? Is there something similar to a PAR meter, but for flow, so you can get a hard number, rather than vague terms like "high" and "low" flow?

I've been tinkering with the position for my two flow pumps (Icecap Gyre 2k and RO Pulse 2, see post #6 in this thread). I have the gyre mounted horizontally at the right side of the tank, ~ 4" down from the waterline, mostly pointed up to agitate the surface. The RO is a bit harder to direct, currently on the left side wall, also about 4" down, pointing general cross-tank, centered. This is the current rockwork:

The front left corner was getting a fairly large whirlwind, and the fairly light sand would blow out down to the glass in about 2 days. A couple of handfuls of coral rubble took care of that. Dead center front, there was another hot spot, and placing the rock that is in front of the sand-sitting shelf stopped that. Now, the back center has a hot spot (behind and to the right of the large "hole". I am tempted to just let it blow out, since it's not really visible unless you are actively trying to look at that area.

But all this makes me wonder exactly HOW MUCH flow I have. And when I start to look at corals, I'll want to know even more, so I can start to think about where particular corals will be best suited. Is there TOO much flow? What tools should I use to map this out?

--Gray

 

[Hydrahawk]

For flow, you add your GPH (Gallons Per Hour) from your return pump (minus head loss) and any power heads you have in your tank. Take that number divide your display tank volume will give you a rough estimate of your turnover. Flow will change when you have corals because as they grow, they will change the flow of your current.

I think you will be happy with Euphyllia (Torch, hammer, frogspawn). Stay sway with Elegance for now.

 

[nereefpat]

How do you measure flow? Is there something similar to a PAR meter, but for flow, so you can get a hard number, rather than vague terms like "high" and "low" flow?

There isn't an instrument to do that. The best you can do is add up the flow from your return pump and wavemakers.

That being said, an exact number isn't really necessary. You'll just have to play with it. The goal is to have minimal dead spots, while giving enough flow to the corals so they can clear debris, while also not ripping up the corals or causing a sandstorm. And with three sources of flow (2 of them big, especially the gyre), you'll have plenty to play around with.

My return is a Reef Octopus Varios-2 with 792gph.
Inside the tank I have a Reef Octopus Pulse 2 and an IceCap 2k Gyre (1600 and 2000gph, respectively), in a WaterBox Marine 70.3, 36"x 20" x18", 43.8G in the DT. It can be augmented as needed.

So your return pump at 792....With some head loss, let's say it's closer to 500 gph.
Pulse 2 = 1600
Gyre = 2000

500+1600+2000 = 4100 gph.

4100 gph / 43.8 gallons = 94 times an hour turnover. Most would call that high flow. I bet you'll have to turn the wavemakers down a bit, which is fine.

Those gyres are a bit of different animal too. They move a sheet of water.

I would probably start with the gyre on the right side blowing horizontally across the top at half speed or so. Then put the pulse on the other side 2/3 the way up pointing towards the surface. Like I said, you'll have to play with it. But, with that much potential flow, you can keep any corals you want.

Hope that helps.

 

[gray808]

Thanks, pretty much exactly what I was looking for!

--Gray