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Well from a chemical standpoint, what would be highly resistant to ozone and nitric acid degradation but still be able to conduct electricity?I don't know how one determines what is "best", but corona discharge can work fine. I'm not sure what materials are needed exactly, or what spacing between them is optimal.
i have the ozotech unit already. A new cell cost a fortune for canadians because the only place you can buy it is from brs. Its 75usd for the cell then 43usd for shipping! Then 11 usd for import fees! Converted thats 150 canadian. No way am i paying that for a simple thing like that. I made a thread in the diy forum trying to make a new cell and show pics of the cell taken apart if you want to look. Its simple composed of a metal tube, and a ceramic tube. Like 5$ and ss winding around the cerqmic tube. Inside the ceramic is a metal too. So .50$. Really this thing cant cost more than 10$. Makes me upset because it needs replacement a lot and imo ozone is valuable to use.Why not buy a cell and just build the driver?
Why do you think the air gap is so critical? If i buy the same size things that the ozone cell is made from it should work the same hopefully lolNormally I would be interested in this but I have been sick for a week now and am considering drastic measures like gargling gasoline or something to knock it out.
I think the materials used are fairly common but the precision required for the air gaps will be difficult unless you have some serious mechanical/engineering skills.
https://www.oxidationtech.com/ozone/ozone-production/corona-discharge.html
Ozone is used in many industries. I have a SoClean. It cleans my CPAP every day with ozone.
I would look around at what is local.
Iridium would be a good option, very expensive thoughWell from a chemical standpoint, what would be highly resistant to ozone and nitric acid degradation but still be able to conduct electricity?
Lol not going to happen. Not unless that should last a hundred years.Iridium would be a good option, very expensive though
Hmmm good points. Ill have to measure the ceramic tube they use and find a suitable replacement.Following along... Not often my love of HV, and aquariums cross paths. I would try and find a fine mesh aluminum screen. the part you want to get right is the dielectric portion. If you go to thin the current draw will burn up your driver, to thick, and It won't create any corona... It also needs to be heat resistant, and non conductive. Looks like your old grid was a stainless coil. I wonder if you can find a stainless screen? it would be a bit more heat resistant while still being ozone resistant.
No but i suspect the coil broke some place due to ozone damage. Thats the only part id want to make better. Titanium sounds plausible but im not sure how it is with nitric acid.When you took the old one apart did you find out why it failed? I would not try to copy something I know breaks easily unless I thought I could make it better.
Haha totally understand, works really well though. We use it in rocket engines to flow liquid monopropellant over and it holds up to the temps and nasty chemicals!Lol not going to happen. Not unless that should last a hundred years.
This is the thing that worries me but ive got no idea what fuming nitric acid is lol:Titanium is resistant to Nitric Acid. McMaster Carr sells various titanium products, like sheets. I’d check them out.
Fuming nitric acid is quite a nasty beast. Red fuming is 84% and devolves N2O4 which is absolutely no joke. This N2O4 can be hyperbolic when it come into contact with specific materials/compounds. For example when mixed with hydrazine it is hyperbolic and used as a propellant for rockets! White fuming is practically 100% nitric acidThis is the thing that worries me but ive got no idea what fuming nitric acid is lol:
"In general, titanium has superior resistance to nitric acid over a broad range of temperatures and concentrations, but it should never be used with red fuming nitric acid. A pyrophoric reaction product will be formed, resulting in grave accidents."
This is the thing that worries me but ive got no idea what fuming nitric acid is lol:
"In general, titanium has superior resistance to nitric acid over a broad range of temperatures and concentrations, but it should never be used with red fuming nitric acid. A pyrophoric reaction product will be formed, resulting in grave accidents."
I’m not quite sure what you mean. What exactly are you going to be using together? Are you starting with red fuming nitric?So would ozone make red fuming nitric acid? Lol i dont want to blow up my fish room here. I can see the title now, "Man in his 30s making experiments in his basement managed to blow up his house".

