Couple Metal Halide Questions:

WhatCouldGoWrong71

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I have Reef Bright 250W lights with electronic ballasts. The kind with the VHOs on the side. I am late to the game, but plan to use some metal halides on a tank. I like daylight vs blue and want to try this. I just am not sure if these will work. Are electronic ballasts "pulse start ballasts"?

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I'll be using 3 fixtures. One is double ended. This feels really inexpensive. Would this work on a 250W double ended fixture that has a electronic ballast?
 
If I'm understanding your question correctly, yes those ushio bulbs will work with e-ballast
 
If I'm understanding your question correctly, yes those ushio bulbs will work with e-ballast
Thank you. It didn't state e-ballast, but it said "pulse start". If they are one in the same, I am unaware of that. Let me ask you, if it says the bulb life is 6K hours, is that pretty close to accurate? I read where people mostly change bulbs after a year. I am asking as, I am deciding on how may I should purchase.
 
You can easily get 2 years of use out of a set of bulbs. Most of us run our halides at 6-8 hours a day.
 
Thank you. It didn't state e-ballast, but it said "pulse start". If they are one in the same, I am unaware of that. Let me ask you, if it says the bulb life is 6K hours, is that pretty close to accurate? I read where people mostly change bulbs after a year. I am asking as, I am deciding on how may I should purchase.
They are not the same but electronic ballasts are pulse start and will fire the bulbs. And yes, you can get 2 years out of the bulbs.
In cases you're un aware- aquabrightsolutions.com
 
One more interesting thing about halides with selectable e ballasts is they are dimmable. Example say you think the 14k bulbs are a bit to much intense. You can switch to a lower setting like 175 watts . Many electric ballasts have a 150,175,250,250 super lumuns . I make certain it’s off when I turn the knobs. Anyway when you turn them down the color does shift to the blue just a bit . Good luck with your halides they really are the best lighting.
 
One more interesting thing about halides with selectable e ballasts is they are dimmable. Example say you think the 14k bulbs are a bit to much intense. You can switch to a lower setting like 175 watts . Many electric ballasts have a 150,175,250,250 super lumuns . I make certain it’s off when I turn the knobs. Anyway when you turn them down the color does shift to the blue just a bit . Good luck with your halides they really are the best lighting.
No-poop!?!? I am pretty sure these ballasts had a switch on them. I’ll look tonight. I need a connector for one of then lights too, I’ll post other pics.
 
i think it will work greatly on growing coral, the only problems may be heat generated by the halide and power consumption.
 
While some one lets me know about @56longroof ’s thoughts, I assume I will have to cut this cord, find a female that this will work with and splice it in?
 

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While some one lets me know about @56longroof ’s thoughts, I assume I will have to cut this cord, find a female that this will work with and splice it in?
I double checked Ushios specs. They are rated M58/E so they are fine with electronic ballast. Sorry for the confusion.
 
@56longroof Both the fixture and the ballast are brand new and were in unopened packages. The seller thought it was going to be pretty easy to get an adapter, but he also was kind of surprised.

Please see the attached photo of the ballast. If there isn’t a connector available for this config, perhaps I buy the correct adapter and rework the ballast? I e never taken one of these apart. I guess the the ends of the power cord to the fixture are attached via screws inside? It would be a matter of determine what wire does what? I am for sure out in front of my skis on reworking a metal halide system. But I am sure posting pics on here wouldn’t be the first cat to have to do this.
 

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Show both the connector in the ballast and fixture. Do they not match or does it need to be longer,
 
A spice may not be the most elegant way to do it but if done properly it is perfectly safe. Can you find a connector that fits the ballast?
 
One more interesting thing about halides with selectable e ballasts is they are dimmable. Example say you think the 14k bulbs are a bit to much intense. You can switch to a lower setting like 175 watts . Many electric ballasts have a 150,175,250,250 super lumuns . I make certain it’s off when I turn the knobs. Anyway when you turn them down the color does shift to the blue just a bit . Good luck with your halides they really are the best lighting.
I would not run the 250 watt bulbs at 175 watts. The bulb isn’t designed for that and will likely cause failure.
 
@56longroof Both the fixture and the ballast are brand new and were in unopened packages. The seller thought it was going to be pretty easy to get an adapter, but he also was kind of surprised.

Please see the attached photo of the ballast. If there isn’t a connector available for this config, perhaps I buy the correct adapter and rework the ballast? I e never taken one of these apart. I guess the the ends of the power cord to the fixture are attached via screws inside? It would be a matter of determine what wire does what? I am for sure out in front of my skis on reworking a metal halide system. But I am sure posting pics on here wouldn’t be the first cat to have to do this.
Is there a electrician near you? I had a friend of mine convert my dual 175 watt to dual 250 watt. He's a industrial electrician so it was a cake walk for him.
 

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