Critique my plumbing!

Bigfish93 · Jun 9, 2015

I have never plumbed a system of this size and would not consider myself to be a plumber, so I wanted everyone's feedback on my setup so far. I would like to do it right the first time rather than having another screw up on my system.

I plan on having 3 valves where the T's are underneath the tank, just havent received them yet. I still need to attach the drain pipes to the sump.

I believe I have the check valve in the correct spot.

Any feedback would be appreciated!!!

Bigfish93 · Jun 9, 2015

Think I will do the thumbnail picture next time

EuroGti · Jun 9, 2015

Looks great! Only thing i would change is the ball valve on the main drain. A gate valve will make adjusting your overflow a little easier. Also if your sump can handle the extra water from the tank, i would ditch the checkvalve. They reduce flow alot, and i have had one get stuck. The spears one you have is of quality though.

kschweer · Jun 9, 2015

Totally agree with the above post, great job. Just make sure your return line is just under the water level of the tank. This way only a very small amount of water will be able to make it back to the sump.

AZDesertRat · Jun 9, 2015

Why do you have a check valve, they are a false sense of security and have no place in a reef system.

hybridazn · Jun 9, 2015

AZDesertRat said:
Why do you have a check valve, they are a false sense of security and have no place in a reef system.

The spears check valve is the best their is and ive never seen one fail personally. Zero edge uses them with the plumbing on their tanks as well, Without one on that and you would have a empty zero edge tank with a power outage

AZDesertRat · Jun 10, 2015

And API makes the Tap Water Filter but that doesn't mean it is a good thing or that everyone should use one.

Regardless, they still don't belong and will fail no matter how much maintenance or cleaning you do. Avoid check valves like the plague when possible. Nothing is as simple as nor takes the place of an air gap, the best and oldest form of backflow prevention known to man and the air gap cannot fail or be defeated.

ngvu1 · Jun 10, 2015

I don't like it!

I love it. Very clean. The check valve is kind of nice but I never have them so I don't know how much flow it reduces.

Bigfish93 · Jun 10, 2015

Is a ball valve that much harder to fine tune? And will locline leak between the joints or does it seal between each joint?

nyfishkid87 · Jun 10, 2015

That's what i call sexy plumbing

DaveMorris · Jun 10, 2015

Agree with the others...ditch the check valve. A properly designed system does not need one. While Locline between the joints is not what I would consider "waterproof", it is very tight and I do not believe that I have ever seen water leak through them. With your Loclines the way they are, you should be able to have the output up high enough to avoid the risk of overflowing your sump without a check valve.

EuroGti · Jun 10, 2015

Bigfish93 said:
Is a ball valve that much harder to fine tune? And will locline leak between the joints or does it seal between each joint?

Ball valves are much harder to tune! In a herbie or Bean I always use a gate valve on the primary drain. The locline is fine. Its 100% sealed when snapped together.

reef_ranch · Jun 10, 2015

Very nice work. Couple of thoughts: the return pump looks quite beefy. How much flow do you plan to send through the sump? Are your drain lines big enough to handle that flow? If it's close, the 90 els on the drain lines will hurt you. Definitely use a gate valve for the siphon drain and I agree, no need for a check valve, just make sure your sump can handle the back flow in the event of a power outage.

Bigfish93 · Jun 10, 2015

Thanks for the input everyone! My thinking behind the check valve was for a power outage. Not sure if my sump would hold the overflow of water. I didn't take into account being able to raise the locline hose higher in the tank which would help.

Has anyone used a gate valve for a Bean system?

reef_ranch · Jun 10, 2015

A gate valve is less critical Ina Bean Animal because you have a wet open channel. But if the open channel makes noise for you, a gate valve on the siphon will allow the minute changes necessary to stop the noise

Bigfish93 · Jun 10, 2015

acesq said:
Very nice work. Couple of thoughts: the return pump looks quite beefy. How much flow do you plan to send through the sump? Are your drain lines big enough to handle that flow? If it's close, the 90 els on the drain lines will hurt you. Definitely use a gate valve for the siphon drain and I agree, no need for a check valve, just make sure your sump can handle the back flow in the event of a power outage.

I think with 3 - 1 1/2 lines it should be fine

915MANG · Jun 10, 2015

Nice job, looks pretty!

reef_ranch · Jun 10, 2015

Bigfish93 said:
I think with 3 - 1 1/2 lines it should be fine

That big! Good, they will handle plenty of flow.

TheClark · Jun 11, 2015

Looks slick and clean!

Curious what return pump that is, and what size those return pump lines are?

Sometimes guys will use a gate valve for the durso adjustment. It sure makes it easier to adjust.

Bigfish93 · Jun 11, 2015

TheClark said:
Looks slick and clean!

Curious what return pump that is, and what size those return pump lines are?

Sometimes guys will use a gate valve for the durso adjustment. It sure makes it easier to adjust.

Its a reeflow dart gold. The return lines from the pump are 1 1/2 in. The return lines into the tank are 3/4 in. Will be feeding a calcium reactor, phos and carbon reactor as well.