Critique my seagrass substrate plan

[NatD]

Hello!

I am preparing to place my order for substrates, and would like to run my plan past y'all before I do so.

Background: I am building a 180 gallon mixed reef with a 92 gallon seagrass (Thalassia sp. and Halophila sp.) and macro refugium plumbed in. Build thread: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/finally-natalies-180-gallon-shallow-reef.510825/

The substrate for the main reef is fairly straightforward. I want 1", don't want it to blow around, and with the 48"x48" footprint I need just shy of 100# to achieve that. I'll be using 50# of special grade and 50# of the live sand that will come from "The Package" from TBS.

The substrate for the refugium is less straightforward. I want a 6-8" DSB. Seagrasses need iron and other nutrients from their root structure. To achieve this depth in my 92 gal bowfront refugium, we are looking at 220-250#. I will use the remaining 60# of the live sand from The Package as the top layer. My plan is this:

Top layer: 60# live sand
Mid layer: 150# oolite aragonite
Base layer: 36# Floramax Planted Aquarium Substrate

Seagrasses need a mature bed, so I won't attempt to add them until the system has been running for at least 6 months. I realize the Floramax is intended for freshwater aquaria, but with the needs of the seagrasses it appears to be one of the better options to provide nutrients at the roots.

This system as a whole is a bit of an experiment, and I have the plumbing planned in such a way that I can easily adjust the amount the flow runs through each of the tanks, and can fully cut the refugium off the system if I had to.

 

[Ron Reefman]

Nat, this is an interesting experiment. I've done a couple tanks with algae beds and wasn't very successful. So I wish you the best of luck. I'd love to see a gorgeous finished tank!

The only concern I have is your doing layers of substrate. My only experience was adding a more course sand with a fine sand to try and reduce sand movement (I have lots of water movement in my tank). But it didn't take long for the fine sand to work it's way to the top and the new course sand to settle to the bottom. Maybe try setting up a small tank as a test to see how well the layers hold up?

This was the best I could do with algae and it worked OK for about 6 months.

 

[Mr.Asbury]

Following along, I've always wanted to add a visible macroalgae refugium to my system.

 

[NatD]

Ah thanks. It is definitely experimental but that’s the fun, right?

I’m okay with the layers not staying stratified, I’m just laying the Floramax on the bottom in hopes it’ll stay more available at the roots and placing the live sand at the top so as not to smother the microfauna. In vivaria they sometimes use fiberglass screen between layers to keep them separated. I considered that for the top of the Floramax to keep it down, but decided against it in the end.

I suspect I’ll one day be glad I’m building in the ability to separate this tank from the main system, but I hope its a pleasant surprise and I am not. We shall see! I do suspect that at some point I will be needing to dose nutrients to the system and/or add CO2 injection.

 

[Peace River]

Hello!

I am preparing to place my order for substrates, and would like to run my plan past y'all before I do so.

Background: I am building a 180 gallon mixed reef with a 92 gallon seagrass (Thalassia sp. and Halophila sp.) and macro refugium plumbed in. Build thread: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/finally-natalies-180-gallon-shallow-reef.510825/
[...]

This is exciting and I look forward to seeing how this comes together for you. You may also want to investigate Kent Marine's Marine Biosediment Filter Media and CaribSea's Mineral Mud as something to mix with the base level (you may be able to mix this with the first 1-2" base level of aragonite and skip the floramax?).

If you haven't seen it already, you may find this article interesting - Beyond the Refugium: The Seagrass Aquarium.

Please know that I have not set up a seagrass tank, but these comments come from my research because I also hope to have one in the future. Good luck! I am cheering for you!

 

[NatD]

Thanks so much!

 

[Subsea]

Ah thanks. It is definitely experimental but that’s the fun, right?

I’m okay with the layers not staying stratified, I’m just laying the Floramax on the bottom in hopes it’ll stay more available at the roots and placing the live sand at the top so as not to smother the microfauna. In vivaria they sometimes use fiberglass screen between layers to keep them separated. I considered that for the top of the Floramax to keep it down, but decided against it in the end.

I suspect I’ll one day be glad I’m building in the ability to separate this tank from the main system, but I hope its a pleasant surprise and I am not. We shall see! I do suspect that at some point I will be needing to dose nutrients to the system and/or add CO2 injection.

Excellent plan. I use Floramax in all of my tanks. Stay away from fiberglass screen. In normal stratification, eventually, the fine substrate will migrate to bottom layer. The bottom layer will have the lowest oxygen & pH, which will help in dissolving iron substrate. I understand your logic about placing near the roots but I doubt the relevance of that. The roots will seek out the nutrients without your help.

Mineral mud is high in iron. I included it with Floramax. The reason mineral mud is superior is because of its soft & fine texture, it will support more worms for biofiltration. By bringing in TBS live critters you have maximized diversity at the bottom of the food chain. Be careful of Gorilla Crabs coming in with the diver collected live rock.

With your live rock from TBS, ornamental macros & sponges are also a nice feature of the biofiltration from this source.

Seagrasses are much more difficult than macros & coral. Good fortune on your journey.

 

[NatD]

Excellent plan. I use Floramax in all of my tanks. Stay away from fiberglass screen. In normal stratification, eventually, the fine substrate will migrate to bottom layer. The bottom layer will have the lowest oxygen & pH, which will help in dissolving iron substrate. I understand your logic about placing near the roots but I doubt the relevance of that. The roots will seek out the nutrients without your help.

Mineral mud is high in iron. I included it with Floramax. The reason mineral mud is superior is because of its soft & fine texture, it will support more worms for biofiltration. By bringing in TBS live critters you have maximized diversity at the bottom of the food chain. Be careful of Gorilla Crabs coming in with the diver collected live rock.

With your live rock from TBS, ornamental macros & sponges are also a nice feature of the biofiltration from this source.

Seagrasses are much more difficult than macros & coral. Good fortune on your journey.

Thank you! I appreciate the advice. I will also include mineral mud. I suspect I will gain more practice than I desire trapping hitchhikers in this and the main tank over the coming months

 

[Kamden Uelton]

I have a Mix of Miracle Mud & Aragonite sand would be better than FloraMax tbh

 

[NatD]

I have a Mix of Miracle Mud & Aragonite sand would be better than FloraMax tbh

Thanks for stopping in. Why do you think so?

 

[Subsea]

Thanks for stopping in. Why do you think so?

I will answer his comment. Miracle Mud is a generic term for a specific vendor from 20 years ago. The mud was collected in one specific dry lake bed which was high in minerals, including iron. Cleaning magnets actually pulled out iron particles. Unless someone shows me third party chemical analysis, I doubt the claim of iron supplementation with today’s MM products. I use MM for its ability to provide a matrix favorable to worms & other micro inverts. Aroggonite dissolves at a falling pH of 7.5 and will assist with alkalinity bufferring and trace mineral addition. You are already adding live sand (aroggonite) fromTBS.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Macroalgaes are colorful, easy and assist in great water quality. Go for it...… would be great to see a startup ic, 3 month, six month and one year pic.

 

[vlangel]

On RC in the macro algae/seagrass topic there is a thread called Weeds where the OP used ordinary dirt at the bottom of his substrate to help his manatee grass get started. Seagrasses are pretty tricky but this aquarist is having good success. You might want to browse his thread.

 

[Subsea]

On RC in the macro algae/seagrass topic there is a thread called Weeds where the OP used ordinary dirt at the bottom of his substrate to help his manatee grass get started. Seagrasses are pretty tricky but this aquarist is having good success. You might want to browse his thread.

Michael is very knowledgeable on sea grasses. He lives in Arizona and has ocean front property.

 

[NatD]

On RC in the macro algae/seagrass topic there is a thread called Weeds where the OP used ordinary dirt at the bottom of his substrate to help his manatee grass get started. Seagrasses are pretty tricky but this aquarist is having good success. You might want to browse his thread.

I’ll check it out. Thanks a bunch.

 

[jefra]

This sounds like a great experiment and I wish you luck.

Regarding layered substrate I've never had success with this either. Maybe look for tips on a freshwater planted forum? I've seen the layered substrate approach work well on those tanks.