Critique my TTM (please!)

mbemount

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To start this, I've been forced to fallow my 125G DT because of an outbreak of ich. Let me preface this by saying that all fish were QT with TTM before put in. This is where I need help! I need to figure out where I slipped up that let ich back into my tank.

Story: Over the past few weeks I lost almost all of my fish to ich (and maybe something else), most quit eating an over a few weeks passed away. A few seemed to go from 'decent' in appearance but went to 'bad' overnight. My survivors are my chalk basslet and my firefish. Neither are showing ich but I'm going to start from square one again. My blue tang was the first to show ich and he was the longest in QT, my foxface was the second.

What I lost: 5 Anthias, 2 clowns (small designer), 2 bangai cardinals, 1 midas blenny, 1 foxface and 1 small blue tang. Total was around ~$600 for everything but costs aside it breaks my heart to watch my fish die.

Equipment: 1 20G long tank, 1 20G tall tank, 2 Aquaclear 70 HOB (nothing used in filter basket), 2 heaters, separate covers. 2 nets (one med/one small). After each transfer the equipment is washed with tap water and dried. All equipment is dry and has no spots of water when its used again. The HOB filter is complete disassembled to clean. I rub the tanks down with vinegar after each use.

Method: Generally my TTM lasts ~14 days. Generally I try to do all my changes around 48 hours (depending on my schedule) but all changes are well before 72 hours. All SW is kept at 1.025 and around ~76-78. I try to keep my SW the same on all my tanks so I don't have to keep multiple storage containers of mixed SW. I generally do not dose anything without seeing a reason to, however this next time I will be using prazipro just to be safe after transfer #2. Any coral that's been added was dipped in bayer & multiple buckets of clean SW before it gets to the DT. My anemone (luckily) was not attached to anything before I put him in my tank and was able to dip him in clean SW before putting him in.

I'm having a hard time believing it was just ich that did everything in as I couldn't see any ich on my anthias or blenny before & after they died. My 2 survivors went into QT today (boy was it tough to catch that firefish with my pukani rock) and I also added my bonded pair of clowns that I've had for over a year from my biocube to QT. Nothing in my biocube was ever QT and luckily I've never lost a fish in it but the $$$ in that tank is significantly less than the 125 so I tried to do the smart thing with the big tank. I have separate containers for food for each tank and separate basters for feeding for each tank. I am the only one that's fed the 125 since it was done cycling months ago. Somewhere I must have cross contaminated something....

Anyone have any suggestions I should do or keep an eye on for attempt #2? I'm definitely going to be more paranoid and careful this time around.

My 8 week clock starts today I guess. :(
 
Story: Over the past few weeks I lost almost all of my fish to ich (and maybe something else), most quit eating an over a few weeks passed away. A few seemed to go from 'decent' in appearance but went to 'bad' overnight. My survivors are my chalk basslet and my firefish. Neither are showing ich but I'm going to start from square one again. My blue tang was the first to show ich and he was the longest in QT, my foxface was the second.

^^IMO; this sounds more like a velvet wipeout than ich. More info on velvet here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/defeating-marine-velvet-disease.217570/

One downside to TTM is it only treats ich. You have to observe for a minimum of 2 weeks after TTM is complete to look for signs of velvet, brook, uronema, bacterial infection, etc.


Equipment: 1 20G long tank, 1 20G tall tank, 2 Aquaclear 70 HOB (nothing used in filter basket), 2 heaters, separate covers. 2 nets (one med/one small). After each transfer the equipment is washed with tap water and dried. All equipment is dry and has no spots of water when its used again. The HOB filter is complete disassembled to clean. I rub the tanks down with vinegar after each use.

I personally don't like using HOBs when doing TTM. Too many little nooks & crannies to worry about getting dry. I just use an airstone; video here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dr-fish-december-episode-the-tank-transfer-method.225907/

Any coral that's been added was dipped in bayer & multiple buckets of clean SW before it gets to the DT. My anemone (luckily) was not attached to anything before I put him in my tank and was able to dip him in clean SW before putting him in.

Unfortunately, coral dips probably DO NOT eradicate the tomont stage of ich which can encyst upon most coral/inverts. Not even copper kills tomonts. Therefore, the only way to neutralize this threat is to QT all corals/inverts in a fishless frag tank (or nano reef) for 76 days (same as going fallow).
 
Thank you, I'll do some more research tonight on Velvet. I'm definitely planning on keeping fish in QT for a few weeks after TTM this time for more visual monitoring. Is 76 days the number for fallow in my DT? I know the chances are better the longer and I'm in no hurry. Thanks again for the help.
 
Thank you, I'll do some more research tonight on Velvet. I'm definitely planning on keeping fish in QT for a few weeks after TTM this time for more visual monitoring. Is 76 days the number for fallow in my DT? I know the chances are better the longer and I'm in no hurry. Thanks again for the help.

The fallow period for velvet is only 6 weeks. But when in doubt, I recommend going fallow 76 days (for ich) as that should starve any & all diseases out of your DT.
 
After more reading I stopped my TTM after my first transfer and started cupramine for velvet. It appears while I could have had ich the more likely thing seems velvet with how the fish were acting and how fast it happened.

Hindsight is 20/20 but I wish I would have had that Dr. House moment and figured it out (even though it wasn't Lupus).

Thank you again.
 

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