Cupramine resistant ich battle plan

graffitireef

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Need help, hope @Humblefish can chime in. I inherited a blue tang, clown, and hawkfish from the guy I bought my tank from. Fish were in qt for 2 weeks and then noticed tang had velvet. I did a FW dip and dosed cupramine for 3 weeks and it appeared I beat it. I put fish into freshly cycled 100gal tank and 3 days in the tang had spots on it and was flashing. Eating fine and no other symptoms. I couldn’t believe it. I didn’t thiNo it was ich and thought it was skin flukes so I dosed Prazipro in the display. I can’t tell if tang has more spots or less. I ordered coppersafe and will be putting fish back into qt but I’m thinking of doing hyposalinity on the DT to get rid of the ich in the tank. Does this sound like a solid plan? I used two copper tests during the cupramine and ensured that it was at therapeutic levels the entire time. I’ve read humblefish weigh in on cupramine before so I’m hopping the coppersafe is more effective. I’ll post photos of the tang later. Thanks in advance.
 
Take a look at my quarantine protocol at he top of the sticky section here.
I prefer to run copper for four weeks, with a two week observation period at the end.
In my opinion, coppersafe is gentler on fish than Cupramine is, but I don’t feel that coppersafe is as good at stopping an active infection.
You’ll need to either run true hypo on your display (35 days) or leave it fallow with no fish for an even longer period; 45 to 76 days. The side benefit for the hypo is that it works if there are fish in the tank, while fallow has to be totally fishless. Hypo also controls flukes.

Jay

oh, and humblefish isn’t active on this forum any more.
 
Take a look at my quarantine protocol at he top of the sticky section here.
I prefer to run copper for four weeks, with a two week observation period at the end.
In my opinion, coppersafe is gentler on fish than Cupramine is, but I don’t feel that coppersafe is as good at stopping an active infection.
You’ll need to either run true hypo on your display (35 days) or leave it fallow with no fish for an even longer period; 45 to 76 days. The side benefit for the hypo is that it works if there are fish in the tank, while fallow has to be totally fishless. Hypo also controls flukes.

Jay

oh, and humblefish isn’t active on this forum any more.
Thanks for the input. I’ll go over your method later. I think I’m gonna go with the hypo on the DT and qt the other guys with coppersafe. Timing sucks cuz I’ve got 6 chalk bass in qt right now . Qt is getting crowded.
 
Take a look at my quarantine protocol at he top of the sticky section here.
I prefer to run copper for four weeks, with a two week observation period at the end.
In my opinion, coppersafe is gentler on fish than Cupramine is, but I don’t feel that coppersafe is as good at stopping an active infection.
You’ll need to either run true hypo on your display (35 days) or leave it fallow with no fish for an even longer period; 45 to 76 days. The side benefit for the hypo is that it works if there are fish in the tank, while fallow has to be totally fishless. Hypo also controls flukes.

Jay

oh, and humblefish isn’t active on this forum any more.
Hey Jay, I read your QT method and will def be adopting it for this next QT. I lost my blue tang last night and am 99% sure its ich and not velvet. I wanted to ask you, as far as my DT is concerned, since I have nothing in there besides fish and LR, would doing hyposalinity in my display while my fish are seperate in QT speed anything up as far as eradicating the ich and possibly anything else in your opinion?
 
Just seeing this now, replied via PM
Jay
Hey Jay, I read your QT method and will def be adopting it for this next QT. I lost my blue tang last night and am 99% sure its ich and not velvet. I wanted to ask you, as far as my DT is concerned, since I have nothing in there besides fish and LR, would doing hyposalinity in my display while my fish are seperate in QT speed anything up as far as eradicating the ich and possibly anything else in your opinion?
 

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