Current Quarantine Protocol

Tank has a dedicated airstone / air pump, PH went from 7.6 to 7.37. Probe needs to be calibrated, it's unlikely to be that low, but I want to confirm if the swing is OK.

I typically don't worry about the actual pH numbers, many probes are inaccurate or out of adjustment. What I look at is the change in pH, in this case, about 0.3 pH units. That is a bit of a drop. The effect that Prazipro has on pH is indirect: the solvent used is a glycol, and it is about 95% of the product by volume. In essence, this is the same as carbon source dosing. It causes a spike in heterotrophic bacteria, and that in turns takes up oxygen and produces carbon dioxide, which in turn lowers the pH. Strong aeration helps offset that issue.

Do the fish act fine?
Can you increase the aeration?

Jay
 
I typically don't worry about the actual pH numbers, many probes are inaccurate or out of adjustment. What I look at is the change in pH, in this case, about 0.3 pH units. That is a bit of a drop. The effect that Prazipro has on pH is indirect: the solvent used is a glycol, and it is about 95% of the product by volume. In essence, this is the same as carbon source dosing. It causes a spike in heterotrophic bacteria, and that in turns takes up oxygen and produces carbon dioxide, which in turn lowers the pH. Strong aeration helps offset that issue.

Do the fish act fine?
Can you increase the aeration?

Jay
Thank you Jay, everyone made it and was transferred to main tank!! Including all antheas, which you mentioned earlier are harder.
 
Is this to much for quarantine with copper in it?
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This is using expired redsea kit. If i where to guess on this colors I'd say I'm under 1ppm
An expired test kit introduces a variable that can’t be accounted for.


Backing up here - if you dose coppersafe according to label instructions for the exact volume of the tank, you should test at 2.5 ppm

The high range Hanna tester is the best test, but the Red Sea kit, not expired is pretty good.

Jay
 
An expired test kit introduces a variable that can’t be accounted for.


Backing up here - if you dose coppersafe according to label instructions for the exact volume of the tank, you should test at 2.5 ppm

The high range Hanna tester is the best test, but the Red Sea kit, not expired is pretty good.

Jay
im sorry, I should have being more specific, the above (not expired) API, and (expired) red sea test kits are for ammonia. I understood when you said copper will mess up ammonia test reading, but this much? i mean i think im around 1ppm in ammonia, while copper was measured at 2.22 with hanna checker. so back to my original question, is this ammonia level looks to high?
 
Hi everyone
in a very well aerated quarantine aquarium, can we risk the simultaneous use of prazi and copper? maybe with hardy fish like Gobiodon and clownfish?
 
Hi everyone
in a very well aerated quarantine aquarium, can we risk the simultaneous use of prazi and copper? maybe with hardy fish like Gobiodon and clownfish?
Normal protocol is to treat copper first then prazi afterwards. If you are concerned both ich/velvet and flukes are active, you can medicate simultaneously for most species. As you indicated, be sure to have extra aeration and also test frequently for ammonia and copper until you are comfortable the tank is stable.
 
im sorry, I should have being more specific, the above (not expired) API, and (expired) red sea test kits are for ammonia. I understood when you said copper will mess up ammonia test reading, but this much? i mean i think im around 1ppm in ammonia, while copper was measured at 2.22 with hanna checker. so back to my original question, is this ammonia level looks to high?
1.0 ppm is high particularly if it is free ammonia. The API ammonia test kit is also difficult to use correctly and for that reason many use other products to conduct this test.
 
im sorry, I should have being more specific, the above (not expired) API, and (expired) red sea test kits are for ammonia. I understood when you said copper will mess up ammonia test reading, but this much? i mean i think im around 1ppm in ammonia, while copper was measured at 2.22 with hanna checker. so back to my original question, is this ammonia level looks to high?
Very Sorry, I misunderstood. Those ammonia tests are showing more than the ammonia seen as a residual to copper treatments (usually around 0.50 ppm). That means there is subsequent ammonia adding to that from the Coppersafe. I’m really bad at reading ammonia tests, but I’d say these are reading 1 ppm or higher. Ammonia toxicity is closely tied to pH, do you know the pH of the water?
Jay
 
Very Sorry, I misunderstood. Those ammonia tests are showing more than the ammonia seen as a residual to copper treatments (usually around 0.50 ppm). That means there is subsequent ammonia adding to that from the Coppersafe. I’m really bad at reading ammonia tests, but I’d say these are reading 1 ppm or higher. Ammonia toxicity is closely tied to pH, do you know the pH of the water?
Jay
So measured ph with digital probe, and it shows 8.0 also if it waters in any way, my Salinity is 1.020 right now, I'm slowly adjusting it from shipping fish water of 1.017. This is 10"+ blonde naso tang in 75g tank. By the way thank you for helping out on this Jay
 
So measured ph with digital probe, and it shows 8.0 also if it waters in any way, my Salinity is 1.020 right now, I'm slowly adjusting it from shipping fish water of 1.017. This is 10"+ blonde naso tang in 75g tank. By the way thank you for helping out on this Jay
if it matters in any way* lol
 
Probably a silly question but I want to be safe. If I skip the prazi portion of QT am I able to immediately transfer my fish to the display at the elevated level of copper or should I run copper removal?

I figure there isn’t a chance of residual copper water getting into the display from the fish but just want to be sure.
 
Probably a silly question but I want to be safe. If I skip the prazi portion of QT am I able to immediately transfer my fish to the display at the elevated level of copper or should I run copper removal?

I figure there isn’t a chance of residual copper water getting into the display from the fish but just want to be sure.

Personally, I wouldn't skip the prazi Rx, or the 14 days observation period at the end - too many times something gets through the process and then gets into your DT.

If you do this, leave the copper at a full dose and move the fish out then. This will help eliminate any active theronts. When acclimating, just don't allow the QT water to enter your DT. The small amount of water in the fish isn't of any consequence.

Jay
 
Jay any advice on QTing Watanabei angel with other tank mates? She's hiding all the time, not eating.

Nothing specific really. Is it hiding from the other tankmates? Normally, I find that Genicanthus angels don't hide much, there may be something else going on with it. You could post a general disease report:



Jay
 
Nothing specific really. Is it hiding from the other tankmates? Normally, I find that Genicanthus angels don't hide much, there may be something else going on with it. You could post a general disease report:



Jay
Thanks Jay, I will after keeping an eye for another day. It's a recent addition to the QT tank.
 

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