Custom DIY for a large reef tank (5-6 foot)

[um02122]

I just want to post this (untested) idea for a large custom fixture, in case it might be useful for someone.

I'm open to criticism, so do not be shy.

In images:











The channels above would be:
1. Cree XTE Royal Blue @1000mA (LDD1000-HW)
2. Cree XPE2 Blue @700mA (LDD700-HW)
3. Cree XTE White (warm/neutral/cool as per personal preferences) @1000mA (LDD1000-HW)
4. Semileds 415nm (Violet) @700mA (LDD700-HW)

The controller is a BlueFish Mini wireless controller. The drivers are MeanWell LDD-HW drivers. The fans would be 140mm Noctual Industrial or Akasa T fans. For powering the controller and the fans a DC-DC converter 48 to 12V. Optional, temperature controlled drivers for the fans. The power source would be a ~600W 48V MeanWell source.

 

[um02122]

And a photo with everything I'm using for my RSM250 conversion (3 foot tank), following the above concept (with different LED chips):

 

[arafas]

Can you post links, where you got all the parts. Interested

 

[dantimdad]

That's pretty slick. I think I would see if the manufacturer could put a mint with instead of one of the xpe2. That would be a great combo.

 

[um02122]

That's pretty slick. I think I would see if the manufacturer could put a mint with instead of one of the xpe2. That would be a great combo.

I guess any customisation is possible. Also, chips can be replaced, upgraded etc. I think learning how to solder leds would be a big plus.

Can you post links, where you got all the parts. Interested

Links to follow. Unfortunately, they are UK / Europe specific (the best sources for this location), but I guess today you can find anything anywhere.

 

[um02122]

Heatsink(s):
STONECOLD RAD-A52317/1000
Heatsink: extruded; grilled; L:1000mm; W:150mm; H:25mm; aluminium
Gross weight: 2.4 kg
£ 26.22
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/rad-a52317_1000/radiators/stonecold/

Or

STONECOLD RAD-P3698/1000
Heatsink: extruded; grilled; L:1000mm; W:150mm; H:15mm; aluminium
Gross weight: 3.31 kg
£ 19.47
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/rad-p3698_1000/radiators/stonecold/

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

And a photo with everything I'm using for my RSM250 conversion (3 foot tank), following the above concept (with different LED chips):

Thanks for sharing, comrade

 

[um02122]

My custom led chips:

https://www.kiwilighting.com/custom...m-fish-tank-coral-grow-led-emitter-lamp-light

Or

https://www.kiwilighting.com/customize-4-channel-12leds-pcb-board-style-1

 

[um02122]

The BlueFish Mini is available for $100 plus shipping plus some VAT in UK:

https://aquarium-led-controller.com/product/bluefish-mini-gen2/

https://www.rapidled.com/bluefish-mini-led-controller-gen2/ $99 plus shipping plus some VAT

Some availability in Europe from Robert [email protected] 135€ - 1x Bluefish mini with cable, including Import, tax and shipping.

 

[Crabs McJones]

Question

should the leds be randomized instead of in a row to help with color blending? Or will they work find in this configuration?

 

[dantimdad]

Question

should the leds be randomized instead of in a row to help with color blending? Or will they work find in this configuration?

They should be close enough to not matter much but yes, normally you would want them arranged more randomly.

 

[um02122]

In my experience, they blend nicely this close together.

At 100%, white balance to min:





At 1%, white balance to min:







This is the fixture:



Video with the tank:

 

[um02122]

The main problem with the RSM130 diy led project was the spotlight effect. This was a problem because of 1. all the leds being in two groups and 2. the reduced distance from the water due to the light being in the aquarium's cover. As you can see in the video, this was not much of an issue. Also, the microalgae growt on the glass is evenly spread, without overgrow, suggesting no hotspots and no shadowed spots either.
A secondary problem was that with all channels at 100%, the light is way too blue for my taste.



The above issues should be sorted in this proposed project by:
- reducing the number of leds in each chip, resulting in leds being spread more even
- removing one Royal Blue channel.



To increase efficiency (par/W), I was thinking of replacing Cree XTE with Cree XPG3 (coming in Royal Blue and White), but the price jumps up significantly. Obviously, an alternative would be to replace whites with a combination of mint/green/red.

I'm not trying to promote the above company, but they've been good in communication and flexibility. Obviously, in the process of trying combinations I've also ended with some chips powered by Cree XPG2 (whites and royal blues). Given that there is no such thing as a Cree XPG2 Royal Blue, take any samples provided with caution. It worked for me. You might want to search for alternative more reliable suppliers. I'm also interested.

 

[um02122]

For power supply, I've settled on two options:
1. Chinese power adapters. In my personal experience, they last the year.

Replacing one every year for five years is cheaper than

2. MeanWell power supply eg RSP-500-48. Water proof power supplies from MeanWell exist, their prices are more than double.


Both of the above have active cooling.

 

[um02122]

The most reliable drivers are the LDD-H from MeanWell. They will feed a constant current to the leds, letting them draw the required voltage. Cheaper alternatives are the buck drivers.

For dc-dc converters, also many alternatives on eBay.

 

[User1]

I'm a fan of DIY. I am also a huge fan of LED bars mixed in with multi channel chips. I use 8 acro star mega 4Z 20K pro's each at 48W from blue acro. Heat sink is 2" wide by 52" long. Each bar has 4 chips and two Noctua fans (great fans btw). Mix in the reflectors (optional diffusor) I have pretty good coverage on a tank 30" tall. Originally was using 4 chips. Needed more light due to the size of my rocks (dry Pukani - darn things could be used for front or backyard hardscape sadly) and shade. Added another bar which was pretty easy. They share the same PWM converter so easy to turn on, off, and adjust via my Apex.

You did great - it looks good and should dissipate the heat while giving plenty of room to adjust as the tank matures if you add different coral(s).

 

[um02122]

I'm a fan of DIY. I am also a huge fan of LED bars mixed in with multi channel chips. I use 8 acro star mega 4Z 20K pro's each at 48W from blue acro. Heat sink is 2" wide by 52" long. Each bar has 4 chips and two Noctua fans (great fans btw). Mix in the reflectors (optional diffusor) I have pretty good coverage on a tank 30" tall. Originally was using 4 chips. Needed more light due to the size of my rocks (dry Pukani - darn things could be used for front or backyard hardscape sadly) and shade. Added another bar which was pretty easy. They share the same PWM converter so easy to turn on, off, and adjust via my Apex.

You did great - it looks good and should dissipate the heat while giving plenty of room to adjust as the tank matures if you add different coral(s).

Photos, I say.
Let us see.

LE Just seen these, they are great alternatives.

https://blueacro.com/acrostar/

 

[User1]

Here is an example to give you an idea of the simple heat sink and acrostar mounts. I've since moved the pwm converter and drivers off to their own heat sink to keep it a bit more simple. Nothing fancy but it seems to work ok for me.