Custom Ohio 200g In Wall Tank Build

[Joshua M Hall]

Only thing I'll add is that I too used SCH80 for the cool grey look, but it was really a waste. Both in $$ and time spent sourcing things. Not to mention the slight flow impact of the narrower inside diameter. If I had it to do over I'd just go as pure white SCH40 as possible and maybe spray paint what could be seen outside the stand.

Im glad you mentioned this. It was on my to do list as far as doing some more homework. I never knew there were draw backs to using sch80. Is the flow impacted a lot? What do you mean by sourcing things? Do you mean finding sch80 parts locally?

 

[don_chuwish]

Im glad you mentioned this. It was on my to do list as far as doing some more homework. I never knew there were draw backs to using sch80. Is the flow impacted a lot? What do you mean by sourcing things? Do you mean finding sch80 parts locally?

It's a very small difference in the inside diameter, but having it change at every fitting (assuming sch40 pipe) disturbs flow a bit. Probably not significant, just something that bothers the OCD in me. ;-)
But yes, mainly finding fittings locally was tough, or waiting for another online order to arrive was a hassle. And of course the cost is a big difference and adds up with a lot of fittings.

 

[ExoticAquaticsVa]

Definitely use schedule 80 for the valves and unions, you wont be disappointed, just make sure that you take the time to hold the fittings in tight while “gluing”.

As for the reactors, after having used many of the BRS duals on smaller builds, you will want to use bigger, more stout reactors for this much bigger tank. MRC, Skimz, Vertex just to name a few good brand choices.

My $.02

 

[Joshua M Hall]

Definitely use schedule 80 for the valves and unions, you wont be disappointed, just make sure that you take the time to hold the fittings in tight while “gluing”.

As for the reactors, after having used many of the BRS duals on smaller builds, you will want to use bigger, more stout reactors for this much bigger tank. MRC, Skimz, Vertex just to name a few good brand choices.

My $.02

Thanks Exotic. Are you saying the BRS dual carbon/GFI reactor is not a good fit for this tank?

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Thanks Exotic. Are you saying the BRS dual carbon/GFI reactor is not a good fit for this tank?

Easiest way to look at it is how many gallons you have, the amount of media for the reactors and then will the BRS reactor hold that amount. My 45 uses dual BRS reactor, but my 110 I use a large vertex for carbon and a BRS for gfo. Of course you have to account for fish load, how much you feed, coral warfare and all that good stuff. My 110 has quite a few nems and leathers, so the carbon is greatly increased size wise, but I don’t need that much gfo as phosphates are easily manageable.

If I had to do the 110 again, I would use 2 vertex just for astetics and growth. (500 gallon tank is in the works as we speak)

 

[Joshua M Hall]

Easiest way to look at it is how many gallons you have, the amount of media for the reactors and then will the BRS reactor hold that amount. My 45 uses dual BRS reactor, but my 110 I use a large vertex for carbon and a BRS for gfo. Of course you have to account for fish load, how much you feed, coral warfare and all that good stuff. My 110 has quite a few nems and leathers, so the carbon is greatly increased size wise, but I don’t need that much gfo as phosphates are easily manageable.

If I had to do the 110 again, I would use 2 vertex just for astetics and growth. (500 gallon tank is in the works as we speak)

Dang! 500 G's!!! That's awesome. Ok, thanks again. I will ditch the undersized BRS Duals and go with 2 Vertex 1.5 since you are the second one to recommend them. Thanks

 

[mrpizzaface]

For a 72” display I would get a 60” aquatic life hybrid with 4 xr15 radions. On a rimless tank I don’t like the way a full width fixture looks, and it’s isnt necessary. I am planning on using 2 36” aquatic life fixtures on an 84” display.

 

[Joshua M Hall]

For a 72” display I would get a 60” aquatic life hybrid with 4 xr15 radions. On a rimless tank I don’t like the way a full width fixture looks, and it’s isnt necessary. I am planning on using 2 36” aquatic life fixtures on an 84” display.

Thanks Mr. Pizza! So you don't believe I will have any issues with unlit spots on the left and right sides with that?

 

[Actuarious]

by no means am I an expert, but I see you have unions right next to ball valves. Would it not be easier/cleaner to use true union ball valves that are a combo of unions with the ball valve

 

[Joshua M Hall]

by no means am I an expert, but I see you have unions right next to ball valves. Would it not be easier/cleaner to use true union ball valves that are a combo of unions with the ball valve

Actuarious, You may not be an expert but you are absolutely correct! Thank you for pointing that out. I love redundancy but that is more stupidity. Updating BRS right now!

 

[mrpizzaface]

Thanks Mr. Pizza! So you don't believe I will have any issues with unlit spots on the left and right sides with that?

I don’t think it will be noticeable. It is common to run a fixture that is 12” shorter than the tank . The BRS 160 is a good example, as is Broadfield’s reefer 450.

 

[Joshua M Hall]

I don’t think it will be noticeable. It is common to run a fixture that is 12” shorter than the tank . The BRS 160 is a good example, as is Broadfield’s reefer 450.

Awesome. Thanks so much for this. Now that you have pointed this out it makes sense. My IM20 which is approx 23" long only has a single XR15 so there ya go. Any other pointers let me know. I have only ever had small all-in-ones so I am definitely in uncharted territory. Trying to do as much homework as I can but little things keep popping up. Its a good thing I have time to get this right.