Cutting/shortening glass for sump possible?

[wickette]

Pretty sure this is a stupid question, checking jic. I'm prepping a sump for a 75gal tank. A 20H doesn't have enough width to fit everything. 20L was the orig plan but it would be dangerously full.
I added feet to the stand and covered with trim to get a 29gal tank in there... it fits but with only 5.5" clearance. It will a nightmare to service or clean. I need to shorten the front by 2.5" , I wont be able to cut all 4 sides down (tried, failed), is there a way to cut down the front

not to scale but I was thinking something like this...

stupid right?

 

[Fish Think Pink]

Pretty sure this is a stupid question, checking jic. I'm prepping a sump for a 75gal tank. A 20H doesn't have enough width to fit everything. 20L was the orig plan but it would be dangerously full.
I added feet to the stand and covered with trim to get a 29gal tank in there... it fits but with only 5.5" clearance. It will a nightmare to service or clean. I need to shorten the front by 2.5" , I wont be able to cut all 4 sides down (tried, failed), is there a way to cut down the front

not to scale but I was thinking something like this...

stupid right?

you probably know if tempered then you risk shattering. I'd be concerned about cutting myself when servicing sump tank after modification, but tough tape (duct?) or something reef safe (coat with liquid silicone, and build up safety edge) might help.

Have you reached out to local glass shops near you? They might do this modification for you and have ideas for edge after cut.

 

[Quietman]

I think drilling that close to edges on thin walled tank might shatter but could be worth a try. I might try breaking the seals with a razor knife then just cutting off the top 3-4". Then use aquarium aquarium grade silicone to reattach. Tons of videos out there and since it's sump looks matter less for a first effort. Also, you could take that opportunity to install your own glass baffles.

 

[wickette]

You're both right about the drilling, I never tried it on anything smaller than a 40, it'll probably shatter or form spider web cracks, maybe i can use a glass cutter to cut a curve and trace a pot cover? Easier than my 1st idea. I don't know if that would ever snap off.

you probably know if tempered then you risk shattering. I'd be concerned about cutting myself when servicing sump tank after modification, but tough tape (duct?) or something reef safe (coat with liquid silicone, and build up safety edge) might help.

Have you reached out to local glass shops near you? They might do this modification for you and have ideas for edge after cut.

*unrelated: the rim is part is easy, it's a trick that never makes it to the diy forums. Use a table saw to cut a slit down the length of any plastic pipe, its clips right onto the edge of the glass, like a rounded trim. protects from sharp edges, adds structural strength/prevents buckling. Works event better shaped with a heat gun. (super useful for those of us who used thin homedepot window glass for baffles)

My small tanks aren't tempered, they're all cheapo tetra tanks, even the bottoms aren't tempered.


It is a nutty thing to do, a glass worker wouldn't do something like that. and I know from experience drilling just the 2 holes costs more than the tank itself and 2" drill bit.

I think drilling that close to edges on thin walled tank might shatter but could be worth a try. I might try breaking the seals with a razor knife then just cutting off the top 3-4". Then use aquarium aquarium grade silicone to reattach. Tons of videos out there and since it's sump looks matter less for a first effort. Also, you could take that opportunity to install your own glass baffles.

This is probably what an experienced DIYer would do.
I'd have to remove all the silicone, not just the panel, correct?

I'd want the the corners of the front panel to go all the way to the top, seems safer than having 3x 18" walls and one 15" wall.

But I've been at this all summer, I did attempt your method early on, all be it without too much research, silicone came off, but there is some very strong very hard adhesive on the non exposed edge of side panel glass (ie some cement applied the way it would be on plexi glass cubes). When the front panel came off a bunch of corn kernal sized bits of glass broke off the front panel and remained firmly attached to the side panels. Could get those bits off afterwards either, I grinded them off with a diamond Dremel bit, not a complete loss since those side piece make perfect baffles for any other tetra tank.

 

[Fish Think Pink]

A

You're both right about the drilling, I never tried it on anything smaller than a 40, it'll probably shatter or form spider web cracks, maybe i can use a glass cutter to cut a curve and trace a pot cover? Easier than my 1st idea. I don't know if that would ever snap off.

*unrelated: the rim is part is easy, it's a trick that never makes it to the diy forums. Use a table saw to cut a slit down the length of any plastic pipe, its clips right onto the edge of the glass, like a rounded trim. protects from sharp edges, adds structural strength/prevents buckling. Works event better shaped with a heat gun. (super useful for those of us who used thin homedepot window glass for baffles)

My small tanks aren't tempered, they're all cheapo tetra tanks, even the bottoms aren't tempered.


It is a nutty thing to do, a glass worker wouldn't do something like that. and I know from experience drilling just the 2 holes costs more than the tank itself and 2" drill bit.

This is probably what an experienced DIYer would do.
I'd have to remove all the silicone, not just the panel, correct?

I'd want the the corners of the front panel to go all the way to the top, seems safer than having 3x 18" walls and one 15" wall.

But I've been at this all summer, I did attempt your method early on, all be it without too much research, silicone came off, but there is some very strong very hard adhesive on the non exposed edge of side panel glass (ie some cement applied the way it would be on plexi glass cubes). When the front panel came off a bunch of corn kernal sized bits of glass broke off the front panel and remained firmly attached to the side panels. Could get those bits off afterwards either, I grinded them off with a diamond Dremel bit, not a complete loss since those side piece make perfect baffles for any other tetra tank.

agree silicone is not the only thing that should hold glass together

My ex managed glass shop - if customer asks they do it - customer is always right

glad you are making it happen, one way or another - good luck!