Cyano and diatoms again

I run rowaphos 24/7 and it will remove silicates and also phosphate which should help get rid of the diatoms and remove phosphate which GHA can use as a food source (and give you a false zero phosphate reading, I assume you mean 0-0.03 not .3)

It looks like diatoms and a little cyno bacteria to me from the picture, so the above will help, but try and increase the flow in particular to the parts were the cyno is forming

I wouldn’t let the nitrate get any lower (than 5) and there’s nothing wrong with 10-20. Cyanobacteria love low nutrient environments

And with those corals, and your nutrient levels, you could probably dose reef energy every month if that. I use it/reef roids about once every month in a 2000 litre full blown reef.
Ye 0.03-0 phos….
Ok I’ll cut back on the roids and a+b…..
As for the corals not opening, thinking it’s because of the diatoms…… Any idea how long they can stay closed for without any issues?
 
I’d treat the Cyano first, that ones easy, can be removed in a few days with chemi-clean, or red slime remover.
Then let’s see what left.
If the golden/brown stuff jumps off the sand at night, that’s Dino’s.
That you can use Dino-x for, treats all the golden stuff.
Not at the same time though.
 
I’d treat the Cyano first, that ones easy, can be removed in a few days with chemi-clean, or red slime remover.
Then let’s see what left.
If the golden/brown stuff jumps off the sand at night, that’s Dino’s.
That you can use Dino-x for, treats all the golden stuff.
Not at the same time though.
I’ll order some
 
I’d treat the Cyano first, that ones easy, can be removed in a few days with chemi-clean, or red slime remover.
Then let’s see what left.
If the golden/brown stuff jumps off the sand at night, that’s Dino’s.
That you can use Dino-x for, treats all the golden stuff.
Not at the same time though.
Don’t think it does, double check tonight
 
How long can corals stay closed for or semi closed before issues arise?
 
Would you advice to use phosguard to remove silicates and phosphate? Or let it balance itself out
 
Don't have a salinity kit.

No snot bubbles and had under microscope looks like diatoms
they are diatoms and cyano
I’d treat the Cyano first, that ones easy, can be removed in a few days with chemi-clean, or red slime remover.
Then let’s see what left.
If the golden/brown stuff jumps off the sand at night, that’s Dino’s.
That you can use Dino-x for, treats all the golden stuff.
Not at the same time though.
No Dinos. Diatoms will go by themselves no treatment required. Limited by silicates once it uses available silicates it will die off. Just make sure no more silicates gets to your tank.
I agree with the cyano treatment.
 
Would you advice to use phosguard to remove silicates and phosphate? Or let it balance itself out

I would just let it balance itself out as your parameters are great.

If your phosphate is 0.03ppm, that is within the margin of error of most testing kits, so your 0.03ppm may actually be 0.

That could be why those pests showed up.

Consider dosing up to .05-.1ppm, that way we are confident that we have trace phosphate available for consumption.
 
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And many of us think that is too low. I would start dosing again if I would hit below 0.03ppm.
Not 100% sure that my level is that as I’ve got hair algae popping up and I’ve read it can give you a lower reading/false reading as it uses the phosphates….
 
Not 100% sure that my level is that as I’ve got hair algae popping up and I’ve read it can give you a lower reading/false reading as it uses the phosphates….
Yep with hair algae it could be higher…
 
Not 100% sure that my level is that as I’ve got hair algae popping up and I’ve read it can give you a lower reading/false reading as it uses the phosphates….
My nitrates measure 20ppm today and phosphate was .26. What little GHA I have basically on one rock is dying off and corals seem very happy.
 

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